I noticed these today on my bell pepper plant which so far has look great and has many baby peppers on it. But these leaves don't look
encouraging, so any input, advice, particularly re treatment, will be so helpful. Baby bells and I thank you!
Diseased Leaves on Bell Pepper.
- Thread starter A. Lyric
- Start date
I noticed these today on my bell pepper plant which so far has look great and has many baby peppers on it. But these leaves don't look
encouraging, so any input, advice, particularly re treatment, will be so helpful. Baby bells and I thank you!
I see bug bites and a leaf that was probably buried in the canopy not getting enough sunlight. They are getting a little too much nitrogen as evident from the very dark green color of that leaf on the top. I also see a little 'frogeye' on the leaves which can apple to apple trees also this time of year.
You might spray the leaves with 0.75% hydrogen peroxide or a copper spray and then start spraying regular with a fungicide for a preventative. I'm not sure how long the 'frogeye' thing lasts for. And probably do the same for your beans.
You might spray the leaves with 0.75% hydrogen peroxide or a copper spray and then start spraying regular with a fungicide for a preventative. I'm not sure how long the 'frogeye' thing lasts for. And probably do the same for your beans.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts. What is "frogeye"? I agree that top leaf looks hideously green, but in reality it did not. Not sure why it looks that way in the photo. I have a bottle of 3% Hydrogen Peroxide. I also have Neem (which has been in my refrigerator for a year), and BT. I know nothing about fungicides. Can you recommend? Also, how often is "regular"? Daily, weekly?
One more thing. Weather has been atrocious this summer. Frequent, short, repeated "drizzles", heat in the 90's, humidity off
the charts, and this coming week it will hit 100 and stay in the upper 90's. Will those temps affect treatment? I apologize for so many questions. I am pretty new at gardening and there is a decided imbalance between my know-how and my enthusiasm. Thank you again.
Well actually 'frogeye' is a leaf disease on apples actually. It looks like that though and it is the time of year for it. It might not be called frogeye on peppers. Well actually it kind of is:
u.osu.edu
A quart of 3% H2O2 per gallon is 0.75%. Hydrogen peroxide can actually be quite costly to use in my opinion but can work on some things.
I've never used neem or BT so I don't know. Other members use and recommend the stuff on certain things and their word is good in my book.
Regular is what the label says. I use chlorantholanil on my peppers and dont have ANY leaf problems on my peppers. I use that about weekly. I think of using chlorantholanil to the same as using 'Armor All' on your tires. It puts a layer of protectant on the leaf that can be washed off by rain or by the growth of the leaf stretching so you have to take that into factor to the application times.
Heat is one thing, but the humidity is another. Humidity makes fungi thrive regardless of the temp.
Cercospora “Frogeye” Leaf Spot of Pepper
Frogeye leaf spot, caused by the fungus Cercospora capsici, has distinctive symptoms on leaves, stems and peduncles of pepper and eggplant. Lesions are circular or oblong, tan in the center and sur…
u.osu.edu
A quart of 3% H2O2 per gallon is 0.75%. Hydrogen peroxide can actually be quite costly to use in my opinion but can work on some things.
I've never used neem or BT so I don't know. Other members use and recommend the stuff on certain things and their word is good in my book.
Regular is what the label says. I use chlorantholanil on my peppers and dont have ANY leaf problems on my peppers. I use that about weekly. I think of using chlorantholanil to the same as using 'Armor All' on your tires. It puts a layer of protectant on the leaf that can be washed off by rain or by the growth of the leaf stretching so you have to take that into factor to the application times.
Heat is one thing, but the humidity is another. Humidity makes fungi thrive regardless of the temp.
Well actually 'frogeye' is a leaf disease on apples actually. It looks like that though and it is the time of year for it. It might not be called frogeye on peppers. Well actually it kind of is:
Cercospora “Frogeye” Leaf Spot of Pepper
Frogeye leaf spot, caused by the fungus Cercospora capsici, has distinctive symptoms on leaves, stems and peduncles of pepper and eggplant. Lesions are circular or oblong, tan in the center and sur…
A quart of 3% H2O2 per gallon is 0.75%. Hydrogen peroxide can actually be quite costly to use in my opinion but can work on some things.
I've never used neem or BT so I don't know. Other members use and recommend the stuff on certain things and their word is good in my book.
Regular is what the label says. I use chlorantholanil on my peppers and dont have ANY leaf problems on my peppers. I use that about weekly. I think of using chlorantholanil to the same as using 'Armor All' on your tires. It puts a layer of protectant on the leaf that can be washed off by rain or by the growth of the leaf stretching so you have to take that into factor to the application times.
Heat is one thing, but the humidity is another. Humidity makes fungi thrive regardless of the temp.
When I see a leaf with suspicious markings, or a new-to-me bug in my garden, I take a picture and Google it. That's helpful with identifying bugs. It's absolutely worthless when I'm trying to identify a plant disease. They all look so alike to me. When I Googled my pepper leaves, I found “Bacterial Leaf Spot” and thought...”That looks like it”. Then I clicked on your frogeye link and thought...”That looks like it”.
So chlorantholanil protects pepper plants against fungal disease? Does it protect other plants, as well? I'm in my garden several times a day, but I mostly wander around aimlessly wondering what to do. I have the time to incorporate preventative measures, the willingness, and I've even backed away a bit from my initial strictly organic mindset. But none of that matters when I don't know what the heck I'm doing.
I'm also reluctant to admit how small my garden is, lest “small” translate to “inconsequential” on a gardening forum where posters probably have acres to worry about. But my two 4 x 8 raised beds, and the 7 containers I added this year are hugely important to me. I have one pepper plant in a container and one in a raised bed.
If someone were to ask me today how I like fabric containers, I'd have to say “Not one bit!” I get a modest flow on my hose, stick it in a container, and within a millisecond water is flowing out the sides. It doesn't flow out the sides after the container is soaked good, it flows out instantly. So how soaked the container actually ever gets is a mystery to me.
My container pepper had three peppers on it. And when I picked one, I saw a disease I do recognize. Blossom end rot! My plants have never had BER and I thought only tomatoes got it. To my surprise, pepper number 4 had no BER. Then we got two huge rain events back to back, and I counted 13 little bell peppers dangling on that plant in like a day! I couldn't believe it. No idea if they will have BER, or not.
Now I keep a milk jug with a few holes to drip water in it continually in hopes that's a good idea.
Anyway, thank you. For taking the time to share a link, your experience, and your problem solving!
Meadowlark
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Yes, squash and peppers in addition to tomatoes can show the effects of BER. You might try this...sprinkle a handful of Epsom salts around the base of those plants and water it in. It completely eliminates BER for me and hopefully for you also.
I'll definitely do that. Today! I actually have some Epsom salts. So thank you!!
Chlorantholanil is not 'organic'. It protects different things on several different plants. It does not work on all things so you could still get some kind of fungal problem. You can download the product labels and read them on the internet so see what plants and diseases it claims to prevent and the recommended pre harvest days. Make sure to rinse the fruit off before eating it if you use this.
There are other things you can use, which migh protect different things on several different plants and does not work on all things. There are drawbacks to all of them. Copper fungicide for instance is pretty good but copper can build up in the soil around the plant so I try to avoid that one although I do use it from time to time.
Baking soda is used by many people. It works by changing the pH on the leaves but it can easily be washed off. I have used it but not really long term enough to say whether or not it is effective enough to suit me and my needs.