How to root a rose stem
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You're supposed to slice into the stem of the rose to encourage it to root. Here's an explanation from Pacific Rose Society
Wounding the Rose Stem
Next, I evaluated whether or not it was necessary to slice the bottom of the rose stem of each cutting. Sometimes referred to as "wounding the stem" there are different ways to do it. Some people just smash the end of the rose stem with a hammer or blunt tool, others make a thin cut along the stem with a knife, and still others cut the rose stem at a high angle instead of just a straight cut. The idea is to have as much surface area as possible at the bottom of the stem for new roots to grow. In evaluating this factor, I recalled that my rose cuttings were the least successful when I had been too lazy to slice the stem.
Now I would take the extra time to slice a small strip off of the cambium layer at the bottom of each rose stem. For miniature roses I take one narrow slice, about 1/8-inch wide and 1/2-inch long, at the bottom of each rose stem with a sharp X-Acto knife. For larger stems such as hybrid tea roses and shrub roses, I make two slices on opposite sides of each stem.
If you want to read the rest of the article about rooting rose stems you can find it here:
http://www.pacificrosesociety.org/RootingRoseCuttingsImproved.html
Wounding the Rose Stem
Next, I evaluated whether or not it was necessary to slice the bottom of the rose stem of each cutting. Sometimes referred to as "wounding the stem" there are different ways to do it. Some people just smash the end of the rose stem with a hammer or blunt tool, others make a thin cut along the stem with a knife, and still others cut the rose stem at a high angle instead of just a straight cut. The idea is to have as much surface area as possible at the bottom of the stem for new roots to grow. In evaluating this factor, I recalled that my rose cuttings were the least successful when I had been too lazy to slice the stem.
Now I would take the extra time to slice a small strip off of the cambium layer at the bottom of each rose stem. For miniature roses I take one narrow slice, about 1/8-inch wide and 1/2-inch long, at the bottom of each rose stem with a sharp X-Acto knife. For larger stems such as hybrid tea roses and shrub roses, I make two slices on opposite sides of each stem.
If you want to read the rest of the article about rooting rose stems you can find it here:
http://www.pacificrosesociety.org/RootingRoseCuttingsImproved.html
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You're welcome, Claudine. Not everyone does it; I can't say for certain that it was the difference between the previous cutting rooting and the most recent one not rooting, but many articles on rooting woody stemmed plants from cuttings mention scoring or wounding the edge of the stem in some way.
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hello rose gardening friends,
I was looking up propagation of roses on youtube and found some informative videos.
Anatomy of A Rose
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBDS1AALKFk
this was very useful to me because I didn't know about the different parts of the rose. this is Paul Zimmerman Roses
https://www.youtube.com/user/AshdownRoses
Rose propagation in Fall and Winter
Bridgestreetnursery
Here is one more
Marty's segment on rose propagation featured Whit Wells of Mid-South Roses.
Please let me know if any of these work for you.
I will be trying out the air layering technique for roses. I will take photos of the progress.
I was looking up propagation of roses on youtube and found some informative videos.
Anatomy of A Rose
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dBDS1AALKFk
this was very useful to me because I didn't know about the different parts of the rose. this is Paul Zimmerman Roses
https://www.youtube.com/user/AshdownRoses
Rose propagation in Fall and Winter
Bridgestreetnursery
Here is one more
Marty's segment on rose propagation featured Whit Wells of Mid-South Roses.
Please let me know if any of these work for you.
I will be trying out the air layering technique for roses. I will take photos of the progress.
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I adore flowers and moreover roses, but when I face with any sort of rooting, I try to do it with help of professionals, like my friends from Megaflowers. They always help me 
Because I`m afraid to hurt flowers
Because I`m afraid to hurt flowers
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Adelina777 I've been learning by trial and error. I'm still learning but some day I will know how to propagate my own flowers. I've been doing a gardener for about 15 years and every day I learn something new. My advice is not to give up and one day you will have beautiful roses that you've propagated.
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I have decided to try rooting roses in potatoes. I stuck a few cuttings recently and two failed immediately. The one that is still green and looks like it might possibly make it, is a semi-soft cane about the thickness of a pencil. The other cuttings were apparently too thin.
I have some additional cuttings in moist soil under a tent with a container of water to help maintain the humidity that also look good. Fingers crossed all around!
I have some additional cuttings in moist soil under a tent with a container of water to help maintain the humidity that also look good. Fingers crossed all around!
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If you mean cloning, simply cut off a stem of a rose bush and place in a vase of water. Eventually it will start to form roots at the submerged part under water. When roots are about two centimeters long, transplant back into soil. Keep the plant watered everyday, and it should be on its way. By the way, I think roses, and flowers in general, are pretty hard to clone without some type of cloning solution.
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The problem with rooting cuttings of roses is they are often not very vigorous and more subject to disease. That's why commercially they often use rugosa root stock and bud graft onto it. Wild brier works very well too, but you have to watch out for the suckers.
Bud grafting is easy. My dad taught me many years ago. You can even use cut stem roses from a bouquet after the flowers die off. It's also the best way to create tree roses (standard roses to the Brits). You can also graft several different colors on one plant, which is cool if you use a climber or rambler to create a multicolored weeping rose tree.
Get your rugosa or brier started, either as a short shrub base (or a tall stem for a tree rose) by dividing a piece off a stock plant - or rooting a cutting, in which case it's best to plan ahead and have a stock supply ready to go. Then Late summer is the best time to start grafting. Make sure your pruners are sharp and preferably the shear type not the anvil type so you don't crush the bark. Have your bud grafting lit kit ready:
Raffia or thin rubber bud grafting ties.
A sharp knife - actually sharpened plastic works great.
A shallow dish of water - or just use your tongue, see below.
Donor rose stems with little tiny dormant red buds.
Do only one graft at a time to prevent exposed tissues drying out.
Cleanly cut a section of the stem about 3/4 to 1 inch long with a dormant bud in the middle.
Split the cutting in half lengthwise with the bud on one side and discard the other.
Lift one corner of its bark and quickly peel it off. The bud will come with it in the middle.
Immediately place it in the dish of water to prevent it drying out. Much better and more convenient is to place it on the edge of your tongue with it hooking itself on like a little saddle.
Prepare the recipient plant stem - either close to the ground or at the height you want your tree to branch out. Make a T shaped cut in the green bark.
Peal open the edges of the T shape slit and slide the cutting down inside, so the bud is peeking out mid way down the vertical slit - make sure it is the right way up.
Close the bark back over it and tie with raffia or use a rubber grafting tie to hold it firmly in place above and below the bud.
Repeat as required for your new rose at 3 or 4 different places around it. For a single stem tree, separate vertically by an inch or so.
Back off and wait patiently.
In spring, when the sap rises and the stock plant starts to shoot above the grafts, cut it off.
The grafted buds will soon start to shoot. Then remove any ties if they haven't already rotted off.
It's a lot easier than it sounds and quite quick with a little practice. My parents had a rose hedge at the bottom of the garden, with all kinds of different roses sprouting from it - the results of my practicing (well, most of them just because of my sense of humor).
Done this so many times, I could almost do it blindfold and taught a lot of other people too.
Bud grafting is easy. My dad taught me many years ago. You can even use cut stem roses from a bouquet after the flowers die off. It's also the best way to create tree roses (standard roses to the Brits). You can also graft several different colors on one plant, which is cool if you use a climber or rambler to create a multicolored weeping rose tree.
Get your rugosa or brier started, either as a short shrub base (or a tall stem for a tree rose) by dividing a piece off a stock plant - or rooting a cutting, in which case it's best to plan ahead and have a stock supply ready to go. Then Late summer is the best time to start grafting. Make sure your pruners are sharp and preferably the shear type not the anvil type so you don't crush the bark. Have your bud grafting lit kit ready:
Raffia or thin rubber bud grafting ties.
A sharp knife - actually sharpened plastic works great.
A shallow dish of water - or just use your tongue, see below.
Donor rose stems with little tiny dormant red buds.
Do only one graft at a time to prevent exposed tissues drying out.
Cleanly cut a section of the stem about 3/4 to 1 inch long with a dormant bud in the middle.
Split the cutting in half lengthwise with the bud on one side and discard the other.
Lift one corner of its bark and quickly peel it off. The bud will come with it in the middle.
Immediately place it in the dish of water to prevent it drying out. Much better and more convenient is to place it on the edge of your tongue with it hooking itself on like a little saddle.
Prepare the recipient plant stem - either close to the ground or at the height you want your tree to branch out. Make a T shaped cut in the green bark.
Peal open the edges of the T shape slit and slide the cutting down inside, so the bud is peeking out mid way down the vertical slit - make sure it is the right way up.
Close the bark back over it and tie with raffia or use a rubber grafting tie to hold it firmly in place above and below the bud.
Repeat as required for your new rose at 3 or 4 different places around it. For a single stem tree, separate vertically by an inch or so.
Back off and wait patiently.
In spring, when the sap rises and the stock plant starts to shoot above the grafts, cut it off.
The grafted buds will soon start to shoot. Then remove any ties if they haven't already rotted off.
It's a lot easier than it sounds and quite quick with a little practice. My parents had a rose hedge at the bottom of the garden, with all kinds of different roses sprouting from it - the results of my practicing (well, most of them just because of my sense of humor).
Done this so many times, I could almost do it blindfold and taught a lot of other people too.