The problem with rooting cuttings of roses is they are often not very vigorous and more subject to disease. That's why commercially they often use rugosa root stock and bud graft onto it. Wild brier works very well too, but you have to watch out for the suckers.
Bud grafting is easy. My dad taught me many years ago. You can even use cut stem roses from a bouquet after the flowers die off. It's also the best way to create tree roses (standard roses to the Brits). You can also graft several different colors on one plant, which is cool if you use a climber or rambler to create a multicolored weeping rose tree.
Get your rugosa or brier started, either as a short shrub base (or a tall stem for a tree rose) by dividing a piece off a stock plant - or rooting a cutting, in which case it's best to plan ahead and have a stock supply ready to go. Then Late summer is the best time to start grafting. Make sure your pruners are sharp and preferably the shear type not the anvil type so you don't crush the bark. Have your bud grafting lit kit ready:
Raffia or thin rubber bud grafting ties.
A sharp knife - actually sharpened plastic works great.
A shallow dish of water - or just use your tongue, see below.
Donor rose stems with little tiny dormant red buds.
Do only one graft at a time to prevent exposed tissues drying out.
Cleanly cut a section of the stem about 3/4 to 1 inch long with a dormant bud in the middle.
Split the cutting in half lengthwise with the bud on one side and discard the other.
Lift one corner of its bark and quickly peel it off. The bud will come with it in the middle.
Immediately place it in the dish of water to prevent it drying out. Much better and more convenient is to place it on the edge of your tongue with it hooking itself on like a little saddle.
Prepare the recipient plant stem - either close to the ground or at the height you want your tree to branch out. Make a T shaped cut in the green bark.
Peal open the edges of the T shape slit and slide the cutting down inside, so the bud is peeking out mid way down the vertical slit - make sure it is the right way up.
Close the bark back over it and tie with raffia or use a rubber grafting tie to hold it firmly in place above and below the bud.
Repeat as required for your new rose at 3 or 4 different places around it. For a single stem tree, separate vertically by an inch or so.
Back off and wait patiently.
In spring, when the sap rises and the stock plant starts to shoot above the grafts, cut it off.
The grafted buds will soon start to shoot. Then remove any ties if they haven't already rotted off.
It's a lot easier than it sounds and quite quick with a little practice. My parents had a rose hedge at the bottom of the garden, with all kinds of different roses sprouting from it - the results of my practicing (well, most of them just because of my sense of humor).
Done this so many times, I could almost do it blindfold and taught a lot of other people too.