Very simply there are 3 in 1 products for roses that will do nicely. While I would not use much N this time of year, what I would do is ensure P and K are available to it, as well as a chelated iron product with micronutrients. I would give it a tablespoon or two of magnesium sulfate as well. I cannot tell from the blurry pictures what is going on, but since roses are edible, bugs as well as fungi eat the leaves. Preliminary insecticide now may help stop any overwintering vermin in the soil below. It is all about the roots now. I would prune it pretty hard when it goes dormant. They love to bloom on new growth for the most part, and when you get past bud break in the spring and start your real fertilizing routine you should see some amazing growth and nice flowers.Study a little bonzai for the pruning, so you know what a nice shape is before you cut. I usually try to open mine up in the middle as they grow upwards more or less from the remaining branches.Southwest Ohio.
I don't know how cold you get, I always prune to two or three buds above the one I want incase frost causes die back, then take the rest off in the Spring after frosts finish and before growth starts.I would prune it pretty hard when it goes dormant.
Not very. Maybe snow 1 to 5 days a year, and it is icy at that.I don't know how cold you get, I always prune to two or three buds above the one I want incase frost causes die back, then take the rest off in the Spring after frosts finish and before growth starts.
That old it may not be grafted, but growing on its own root. If you can't see an obvious graft at the base try making cuttings from your prunings, about 9-to-12-inch pencil thick lengths. Drive a spade into the ground at 45 degrees, and lift it a little. making a slot to push the cuttings in, and then heeling them in. Taking them just below a bud and using rooting powder helps.
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