Blueberries dying a slow death......


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Yea, I bought them from a nursery and planted them. If they are in extreme shock, would they come back this coming year or are they dead? Being in shock sounds like they would come back? The PH is proper now as well. I was kinda thinking they were in shock because I dropped the PH to quickly. But again, would they come back the following year if that is true?
If shock is ultimately the problem -- and the only problem, then with some TLC they should definitely come back.
I've never had Blueberrry outright die from transplant but again, they've always pretty much dropped most or all of it's leaves.

My guess is much like Apples, Blueberries don't like transplanting. It stresses them out a lot.
They generally recover if they were healthy prior to transplant.

Just tend to it as you normally would, and give it some time. While leaves should start coming back very soon, actual full recovery from transplant shock can* take quite a long time . Wish you the best :)

PS: It's still cold here in Texas. IDK where you are but if it's still cold where you are located then it's probably not growing much replacement foliage. Come spring, they'll be just fine :D
 
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alp

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I found this on the web:

"Iron deficiency (chlorosis) is a very common deficiency in blueberries. It is first exhibited by younger leaves and spreads to the entire shoot. Yellowing occurs between veins, while veins remain green. Leaves may turn completely yellow or, in severe cases, reddish-brown. Blueberry plants are not able to remove iron from a high pH soil. Iron is much more available at a lower soil pH. To correct iron deficiency, apply iron chelate to the soil or to the leaves. The more permanent and less expensive solution is to lower the soil pH with sulfur to the recommended soil pH of 4.2 to 5.2. Manganese toxicity can occur when soil pH is too low or too much acidifying material has been used. Symptoms are similar to those of iron deficiency. A foliar analysis may be needed to determine the problem."

Not sure how you are testing PH. Do you test the water you are using by itself first? I find my tap water is best, as it is treated to be nuetral, whereas the distilled water my tests have called for shows up as a 6 PH. In other words you could be actually around 8PH. My clay soil is that way. We have tons of lime in our soil and water and they even have lime plants in this county. I use agricultural pelletized sulfur, rhododendron and azalia fertilizer, and broad micronutrients at least once per year, usually in the fall. The blueberries are usually loaded if I remember to feed the roots.View attachment 37909
Amazing! It's loaded.
 

alp

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I just add ericaceous compost to it. And they are in pots. Wonder what I should do to make them bear fruit like yours, @DirtMechanic ?
 
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I just add ericaceous compost to it. And they are in pots. Wonder what I should do to make them bear fruit like yours, @DirtMechanic ?
Fertilize in the fall and spring with azalea food and pinestraw mulch. Also our soil is usually showing 5.5-6 on my little ph meters. Plus, though it does not look it, they do drain pretty well where they are located.
 
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Thanks for reply. I found the same thing. As usual, can't find anything local and have to order off the internet for the iron chelate. Here is the tester I got, but it is just for soil. But I was putting that Miracid in the waterView attachment 37910 the last two times and it should have lowered it.
I bought that exact tester today and checked the pH against my Burpee. The Burpee showed 6pH and that one showed 7pH. The Burpee pH matches another I owned, but I broke the legs on that over time last year. Its nice to have a stick tester that works, but I still do not trust just one. The little colored water tests burned me and I am not over it I guess.
 

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