Ashes

[vette-kid]

I have a bunch of ashes in my burn pit from cleaning up after Michael. Is it ok to throw this on my compost pile? It's all from the limbs and leaves and such. The or beds cleaned out, so this would obviously be the easy way to go.

 

[DirtMechanic]

Ash raises ph and has potassium. Is that good for your soil needs? Personally I would sufficate the fire after it is hot and get as much charcoal out of it as possible because unlike compost charcoal will not disappear over time in the soil and holds the hell out of oxygen and other good stuff.

 

[Chuck]

Ashes work best in acidic soils. As @DirtMechanic said it raises the Ph and if your soil is already alkaline it may be a detriment to your soil.

 

[alp]

Sprinkle some on the compost, but not around roots or too close to plants should be OK. Good for encouraging flowering. Not too much. Best apply in Spring time, around March for fruits or any time before flowering. Nice source of potassium!

 

[Esther Knapicius]

nice circle to burn things there. we just have a heap out at back of all the twigs /branches/ limbs etc. every now and then we light it up. I usually pull the hose down near just in case. but its never gotten out of hand.

 

[vette-kid]

It's a lot of fun for cool evenings and smores parties!

 

[treeguy]

It is problematic if you have too much clay content. Otherwise, good advice above.

 

[DirtMechanic]

It is problematic if you have too much clay content. Otherwise, good advice above.

Well, there is this thing that happens when the fine clay strips hydrogen out of water and increases acidity via increased hydrogen which is measured by the pH or power of Hydrogen... That alkalinity of ash adds some fine surface layer of resistance and some small amount of K and perhaps some other minerals not burned away.

 

[treeguy]

Well, there is this thing that happens when the fine clay strips hydrogen out of water and increases acidity via increased hydrogen which is measured by the pH or power of Hydrogen... That alkalinity of ash adds some fine surface layer of resistance and some small amount of K and perhaps some other minerals not burned away.

Could you elaborate?

 

[DirtMechanic]

In time, excessive rainfall leaches the soil profile's basic elements (calcium, magnesium, sodium, and potassium) that prevent soil acidity. Organic matter decay produces hydrogen ions (H+). Like that from rainfall, acidic soil development from decaying organic matter is insignificant in the short term but adds up over time. Rain itself can be somewhat acidic. Clay soil, being so fine, has a lot of surface area. The surface area has exchange sites that can "hang on" to H as well.

 

[Daren]

I spread mine about the garden all the time But I keep it away from plants that like a low ph. I have a lot of Buxus that like a bit plus My Hydrangeas, forsythia, lilac, weigela & even the lawn can benefit.

 

[treeguy]

In time, excessive rainfall leaches the soil profile's basic elements (calcium, magnesium, sodium, and potassium) that prevent soil acidity. Organic matter decay produces hydrogen ions (H+). Like that from rainfall, acidic soil development from decaying organic matter is insignificant in the short term but adds up over time. Rain itself can be somewhat acidic. Clay soil, being so fine, has a lot of surface area. The surface area has exchange sites that can "hang on" to H as well.

Thanks, I needed that. How about discussing (Tiger) pelleted agricultural sulfur and the highest rates you can apply on a continuing basis, assuming a starting point of >7.0 and sandy loam with (now) buried crushed limestone which was a decorative mulch on foundation landscape beds, now home to assorted azalea, box, periwinkle, Hosta, et al. I distribute chopped oak/beech leaves into the periwinkle each autumn now, and originally mulched with ~12" (total) wood chips in the 1st 3 years over a base of ~12" (commercial) compost/topsoil mix.

 

[DirtMechanic]

Thanks, I needed that. How about discussing (Tiger) pelleted agricultural sulfur and the highest rates you can apply on a continuing basis, assuming a starting point of >7.0 and sandy loam with (now) buried crushed limestone which was a decorative mulch on foundation landscape beds, now home to assorted azalea, box, periwinkle, Hosta, et al. I distribute chopped oak/beech leaves into the periwinkle each autumn now, and originally mulched with ~12" (total) wood chips in the 1st 3 years over a base of ~12" (commercial) compost/topsoil mix.

That is a busy patch! So for loam I see 4 lbs of sulphur per thousand square feet but for sand 2 lbs to drop from 7 down to as low as 6.5pH. So maybe start with 3 and roll into it? It takes a really long time for sulphur to break down and change things so don't get ahead of the process or you may overshoot.

 

[treeguy]

Ever hear of Terra Preta?

 

[DirtMechanic]

Ever hear of Terra Preta?

I have a small shrine to it in my shed