You are really showing yourself up now. Why not stop digging the hole you have made for yourself. I daresay our new friend from Belfast Ireland has gone off to find a more sensible forum. Do stop being silly.
Warzone Lawn
- Thread starter Noons91
- Start date
Hi all, thanks for the lovely replies. Lots to consider! I stumbled across Premier Lawns UK on YouTube who's a local company but they have incredible amounts of videos to draw from.
From what I gathered researching I could scarify the entire patch max 40º each pass for 2-3 times as soon as the weather isn't freezing anymore.
I would then rake up and spray iron sulphate.
Then I would let it rest for a bit (how long?) and then spread new seeds.
Finally, once the seeds take hold I could try some fertiliser.
Thoughts on this approach? What's the best order and temperatures?
Thanks
From what I gathered researching I could scarify the entire patch max 40º each pass for 2-3 times as soon as the weather isn't freezing anymore.
I would then rake up and spray iron sulphate.
Then I would let it rest for a bit (how long?) and then spread new seeds.
Finally, once the seeds take hold I could try some fertiliser.
Thoughts on this approach? What's the best order and temperatures?
Thanks
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When messing about with sulphur or liming agents for that matter, less is more. If there were a safer rule it would go along the lines of use less than you need while becoming more consistent in your application intervals. This has to do with root tips being blunted by the chemical layer you apply to the soil. Its part of the idea of "buffering capacity" or matching mass to mass when applying anything really. 6 inches of soil across a lawn is an awfully heavy weight in Kg.
To move the needle of that mass a certain Kg of amendment is needed and along that thin border where the amendment and soil meet prior to its longer term emulsion into the soil a toxic line can develop which defeats all good intent.
I want to say the advice for acidifiers is apply every six months, but cannot remember the amount of sulphur. I would verify 1\4 Kg as an upper limit. Half a pound per thousand square feet more or less and let that work itself about. The point is that if nature is removing materials from the soil and you are having to add them back then a low and slow approach is both less costly and more precise as you steadily but gently change your numbers.
Have you been doing that or going to do that? That is more acid.
Is there some way you can check the pH of your soil first?
I found a ph tester on amazon for £6 basically two sticks and a meter on top, do they work ok? Thanks
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Enough to show a general direction.
There are two main tricks to a stick. They utilize electrical differences between two dissimilar metals.
1 is oxidation on the surface if any can make a reading fail, although soil is abrasive enough to clean it after some sticks. Vinegar acid or fine steel wool works too, although not recommended abrasives are fast spring cleanup.
2 is moisture level of the soil. Dry soil will not conduct and waterlogged soil will give the number for water. Since rain is more or less distilled water that has a pH of 6 you will see numbers in soggy wet soil either climbing up to or down to this number.
Mine work best the day after a rain when the soil is drained of standing water and firm enough to be more normal. It is clay and prone to holding water so for me the third day is fine too. I like it moist, not when you can squeeze water out. I also have some other sticks just so I can see how they all read and compare them just to be sure one is not getting wonky over time.
This is my favorite one so far. I got it 4-5 years ago.
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