Tulip FEST!? Please share yours ..

MaryMary

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Please share your joy and pride or your chagrin ..
Chagrin, signing in. :(



:love: All your photos are so pretty, I wasn't going to post in this thread. :oops: :cry: Then it occurred to me that since the participants in this thread really know their tulips, maybe you can tell me what went wrong?

I found this lonely little runt in my flower bed yesterday. :(
It's not going to bloom, should I cut its head off? o_O :ROFLMAO:


0417171354-2.jpg
 

alp

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I have found something like this

If you decide to try to get your tulips to rebloom year after year, the most important things you can do is choose the right location to plant your tulips. The location MUST be well drained and in full sun. The more intense the sun the better. Do not plant tulips near house foundations, driveways or other concrete forms if you live in slightly warmer climates. All spring blooming bulbs need a certain amount of cold to form flower buds, but this is especially important to tulips. If you live in USDA zone 5 or higher, concrete forms can actually keep the tulip bulbs warmer in the winter which will keep them from forming flower buds.

Read more at Gardening Know How: Tips For Getting Tulips To Rebloom https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/ornamental/bulbs/tulips/tulips-bloom-every-year.htm

Also, old tulips can be very unreliable .. that's why a place showcasing tulips digs up their tulips every year (we are talking of tens of thousands of bulbs) and buy new ones from Holland for the following year's display..

From my observation - a place with the longest amount of sunshine or raised bed being warmed by the sun.. They love it. I incorporated horse manure and water retentive gel liberally last winter .. and hey this year, the red Terry tulips have multiplied .. and those bathed in the morning and afternoon sun flourished.
 

Logan

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Alp, i agree, but when they've died down,dig them up and separate the bulbs, tulips grow a cluster of bulbs with different sizes. So keep the big one, to flower the next year. You could plant the others somewhere so they can get bigger to flower in a year or so.
 

alp

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This article was written in October - Sarah Raven

Now is the moment for planting Tulips. They start putting roots down and the cold temperatures help to wipe out viral and fungal diseases that lurk in the soil and which may infect the bulbs. Planting late is a traditional means of disease protection.

Tulips should go in deep, in trenches or holes dug to 20-30cms. Deeper planting means you won't need to stake and kept cool, deep down in the soil, means your tulips are more likely to flower year after year.

I use a bulb planter with a spade like handle to do my planting in borders, but in the cutting garden we dig out trenches and plant tulips in those.

If you garden on heavy soil, cover the base of wherever you're planting with 5cm of washed sharp sand, horticultural grit, or spent compost. Add a handful of bonemeal to encourage formation of next year's flowers and mix it into the soil and grit at the base of the hole. Place the tulip bulbs, pointy end up, about 8cm apart and cover with soil. Again, if you garden on heavy soil you can mix grit at approximately one-third volume with the infill soil.

If you're short of space, cover the first lot of bulbs with soil and then add a second layer before filling in the hole. There is still enough soil above the bulbs to allow you to over plant without damaging them. We do mixed colour combinations in the cutting garden just like this, with lots of crimson-black varieties (such as 'Black Hero', 'Havran', and 'Queen of Night') in the base layer, with some carmines and brighter reds (such as 'Tambour Maitre', 'Antraciet' and 'Jan Reus') on top for contrast.

On poor soil, it's worth giving almost all spring-flowering bulbs a potash feed in the early spring. This helps with root and bulb formation and will encourage them to stick around and flower on and on for years.

When you cut tulips, make sure you leave a short section of the leafy part of the stem below where you cut. This gives the bulb a chance to make enough food to survive through the dormant period and makes it more able to produce flowers the following year. It is also important to leave the browning foliage on your tulips until every leaf has died right down, usually by early summer.

I have found no benefits from digging up tulip bulbs after flowering each year, so I leave them in place. In mid-June I rake up all the dead foliage, mulch with 5-8cm of compost or well-rotted manure and over plant with half-hardy flowers or vegetables like courgettes or pumpkins.

I agree with her for the last paragraph .. I'm too lazy and they all come back.. I live in warm Essex...
 

alp

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Think my Fest is no more... Just a rare few..
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SAM_0169.JPG


The red frilly ones are especially buggy ...
SAM_0173.JPG
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oOOPS What are those bugs.. My tulips are definitely on the wane.. Share yours.. please!
 
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Chagrin, signing in. :(



:love: All your photos are so pretty, I wasn't going to post in this thread. :oops: :cry: Then it occurred to me that since the participants in this thread really know their tulips, maybe you can tell me what went wrong?

I found this lonely little runt in my flower bed yesterday. :(
It's not going to bloom, should I cut its head off? o_O :ROFLMAO:


View attachment 19247
I'd just leave it be a little longer ......Let a plant do what a plant want's to d;). Your do harm by cutting to early wait till the sap is returning to the bulb and it is changing from green to yellow then you can cut.(y)
 

Logan

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Logan

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This article was written in October - Sarah Raven

Now is the moment for planting Tulips. They start putting roots down and the cold temperatures help to wipe out viral and fungal diseases that lurk in the soil and which may infect the bulbs. Planting late is a traditional means of disease protection.

Tulips should go in deep, in trenches or holes dug to 20-30cms. Deeper planting means you won't need to stake and kept cool, deep down in the soil, means your tulips are more likely to flower year after year.

I use a bulb planter with a spade like handle to do my planting in borders, but in the cutting garden we dig out trenches and plant tulips in those.

If you garden on heavy soil, cover the base of wherever you're planting with 5cm of washed sharp sand, horticultural grit, or spent compost. Add a handful of bonemeal to encourage formation of next year's flowers and mix it into the soil and grit at the base of the hole. Place the tulip bulbs, pointy end up, about 8cm apart and cover with soil. Again, if you garden on heavy soil you can mix grit at approximately one-third volume with the infill soil.

If you're short of space, cover the first lot of bulbs with soil and then add a second layer before filling in the hole. There is still enough soil above the bulbs to allow you to over plant without damaging them. We do mixed colour combinations in the cutting garden just like this, with lots of crimson-black varieties (such as 'Black Hero', 'Havran', and 'Queen of Night') in the base layer, with some carmines and brighter reds (such as 'Tambour Maitre', 'Antraciet' and 'Jan Reus') on top for contrast.

On poor soil, it's worth giving almost all spring-flowering bulbs a potash feed in the early spring. This helps with root and bulb formation and will encourage them to stick around and flower on and on for years.

When you cut tulips, make sure you leave a short section of the leafy part of the stem below where you cut. This gives the bulb a chance to make enough food to survive through the dormant period and makes it more able to produce flowers the following year. It is also important to leave the browning foliage on your tulips until every leaf has died right down, usually by early summer.

I have found no benefits from digging up tulip bulbs after flowering each year, so I leave them in place. In mid-June I rake up all the dead foliage, mulch with 5-8cm of compost or well-rotted manure and over plant with half-hardy flowers or vegetables like courgettes or pumpkins.

I agree with her for the last paragraph .. I'm too lazy and they all come back.. I live in warm Essex...
Yes i agree. I did watch her do that when she used to be on GW.
 

alp

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Very good, Logan! I can see your tulips are still going very well.. Mine has mostly gone south.. The first and last but one are gorgeous.. Your frilly ones have round petals whilst my white ones have pointy petals.. Such a big configurations of features.. It's grey and cold here, even in Essex. Drawing my curtains do not help but it does reduce the glare..
 

Logan

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Very good, Logan! I can see your tulips are still going very well.. Mine has mostly gone south.. The first and last but one are gorgeous.. Your frilly ones have round petals whilst my white ones have pointy petals.. Such a big configurations of features.. It's grey and cold here, even in Essex. Drawing my curtains do not help but it does reduce the glare..
Thanks the purple and red are later.
 

alp

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The last frilly ones are gorgeous.. So many different types of tulips... Amazing .. Sadly, I have only on Knight of the Night .. in my whole garden..
 

alp

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@Upsy Daisy You see how much you miss out. Tulips, in a way, are more exciting than daffs.. They have so many different colours, shapes, and features.. As you can see, red, maroon, violet. See how beautiful Logan's frilly edged tulips are.. If you can find a hot and sunny spot, with a bit of grit underneath and bury them deep enough, you should have flowers year after year.. I fertilized my raised bed with horse manure last year, the Terry tulips double reds have multiplied themselves. Mind you, they do say tulip bulbs deteriorate in quality. But don't forget, they multiply as well. Really is worth it..
 

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