Trying again armed with supplements still getting BER?

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So I am getting the idea your container tomatoes have hot feet. They do not like that. The containers are 7 gallons or more or smaller than buckets? Buckets not covered and containers are, so evaporation cooling is slowed. High on deck where deck temps can easily go 125f. I dry herbs at 95f.
 
S

saboken

So I am getting the idea your container tomatoes have hot feet. They do not like that. The containers are 7 gallons or more or smaller than buckets? Buckets not covered and containers are, so evaporation cooling is slowed. High on deck where deck temps can easily go 125f. I dry herbs at 95f.
I don't know how that possible I'm in Pennsylvania on the NY border it's not that hot here compared to 2 years ago when I grew them In the same containers in SC the summers are a lot longer and way hotter down there I'm at a elevation of 2100' compared sea level in SC. I rarely need AC here and have seen the temps drop to 45 during the night, but it hasn't had a frost in 2 1/2 months. Just checked the soil temperature it's 67.2 and hotter outside than it's been all month.
PXL_20210720_154031420.jpg
 
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S

saboken

Well now you are actually describing cold feet. All this impacts nutrient flow of course.
Guess I can't win I won't plant in the ground because of all the stuff they use trying to kill the weeds on the back half of the property, why they don't just rip it up and plant grass? They own a equipment rental company that has everything I think I need to o move lol
 
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Perhaps you should consider changing your watering regime?
You should not have to use that much ES. to get what you need for tomatoes.
Irregular watering can also prevent the uptake of calcium; in fact it's overwhelmingly the major cause of BER in the uk.
When you water too much at one go, then leave to dry until wilted, you are asking for BER.
Water half as much, twice as often.
It works great in my soil. This year I didn't have to water but twice. Production was up a little too, a tad over 15 lbs per plant. Not a single case of BER. Used about 6 handfuls of ES per plant during the entire season. The only watering issue that affects my plants is cracking from too much water for too long a period.
 
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Guess I can't win I won't plant in the ground because of all the stuff they use trying to kill the weeds on the back half of the property, why they don't just rip it up and plant grass? They own a equipment rental company that has everything I think I need to o move lol
I have seen insulated planters, and I have see the use of heat mats to moderate cold. Usually mats are for seed starting but they work for a variety of issues as well as cat beds. So even if you have nutrients in the mix, the plant has to take them in and tomato seems to fuss below 50f, which means you treat it like a tropical houseplant basically. This is not the only issue I suspect, but lack heat contributes to the BER by reducing chemical transactions inside the plant as well as overall growth slowdown. The other contributor may well be rain diluting what you have given it. The smaller the pot the easier this is to occur. Highly soluble fertilizer is easy to apply but is best for quick fixes where slow and steady release organics are best overall for long term. Another issue is math. When messing about with water soluble or hard fertilizers the weight and volume become relative to the weight and volume of the plant. It is easiest to use metric grams and milliliters because you can easily convert them. The idea is that elephants like peanuts, but do not feed one peanut per day and wonder about the health of your elephant.
 
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Since I started using Calcium Carbonate, I haven't had BER. When planting, I put 1 TBsp of food grade calcium carbonate in the hole for each plant & mix it in. In a few weeks, I use 2 TBsp of Epsom salts mixed in 1 gal. of water to water the plants. Works for me...
 
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It works great in my soil. This year I didn't have to water but twice. Production was up a little too, a tad over 15 lbs per plant. Not a single case of BER. Used about 6 handfuls of ES per plant during the entire season. The only watering issue that affects my plants is cracking from too much water for too long a period.
"I cannot grow any tomatoes except cherry varieties without losing all of them to BER. "
 
S

saboken

"I cannot grow any tomatoes except cherry varieties without losing all of them to BER. "
Something is going on that we can't figure out? I'm not really a newbie by any means I have successfully grown tomatoes of various types since the 80s I have only had this issue where I currently live I'm not sure why we have lots of farming around me many are Mennonite/Amish farms. I'm suspicious of the well water due to fracking in the area, we also have a NG pumping station a few hundred yards away it's massive it feeds NYC, also the landlord doesn't take care of the back half of the property as they should they let weeds get out of control then spray it with a bright green liquid they won't say what it is? And we have a natural spring that flows through the weeds and down the street to man made pond the volenter fire department uses what ever they spray on the weeds gets into the pond and it quickly goes from a Greenish yellow water to brown when all the lilly pads die off, I don't know where you live? But something in my environment is hurting my plants? I am looking hard for another place to rent or buy, 2 years In a row it can't be a mistake on my part. Good luck with yours when a garden fails it can be hard.
 

WildTomatoGuy

Crossing With Wild Tomatoes Is Awesome
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Amend your soil with Blooming Minerals by Wallace and Kelp Meal.Go to Lowes and get a White food grade hose and a RV hose water filter.Attach the hose filter to the white hose on the end that attaches to your water spicket.Filter your water into 5 gallon buckets according to the directions of the RV filter.Give each plant a gallon of filtered water at the base slowly every 4 days.And hope for RAIN.
 

WildTomatoGuy

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Also Use

Greenway Biotech Tomato Fertilizer 4-18-38 according to the directions...One more thing.Introduce worms to your soil.Go to your local fish bait shop and buy a dozen nightcrawlers and a large package of red worms.Go to the middle of your garden and dig 2 holes a foot deep.Chop up the dirt that came out of the hole so it is loose.Put half the dirt in,And dump the worms in.Cover lightly with rest of the soil.Super good to help airate the soil and adds natural fertilizer from their castings.​

 
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