After the solarization and turning the soil you will grow as many weeds as before unless you make it difficult for seeds to germinate. You should have thick mulch of anything you can get your hands on, and it should be there year-around. I put 6"+ on the garden each autumn, I turn that under after it has degenerated to about 2" each spring. I immediately use another 6" of leaves and then all my grass clippings go on top of that all summer. I save leaves every autumn and put more leaves on after I pull the roots of the garden plants. Actually, I save others people's leaves in the nice bags they put them in for use in spring after I turn-in what's there.
There are weed seeds added to the area every year. Some of those are activated by sunlight and germinate, the rest will remain dormant, some for a hundred years or until they are activated by the right conditions, some combination of sunlight, warmth, and moisture. Plowing at night deprives seeds of the solar activation that is more important than any other condition. Having a mulch pile at hand for immediate use after turning your garden will help the process.
You will be your worst enemy in the war on weeds. Some seeds will blow in from your friends and neighbors, but the biggest contribution of seeds will come from plants that go to seed right there on your garden. If you always pull weeds before they get to the flowering stage you will shortcut 90% of the contributors of next year's weeds. Most of the weeds will grow on or next to your pathways in the garden if your garden has 6" of mulch on it.
I'm old and have a smaller garden than most. After some years you will hone in on what's worth your effort in time and space. Some things take a lot of room, and some things don't taste that much better than what you can buy in season, so eventually you'll only grow what fits your space and time. I have found that everything needs a path in-between rows, and that path is about the same, year-to-year and plant-to-plant, and the plants need about the same plot size, too. So, I divided my garden into four 30" wide rows with four 24" paths in-between. The paths have six 24" square cement patio blocks. I rotate my crops row-to-row, but the paths are permanent.
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Actually, I don't don't turn the whole pot over every spring, usually just the ground that I need to plant. A 18" diameter hole 12" deep is all a tomato plant needs. Same for cukes and pumpkins, and half that for leaf lettuce. For a row of peas, just a trench one shovel wide the length of the trellis. I use two driveway gates of chain link fencing stood on end and connected with electrical zip ties to each other in the middle and to the black posts you see in each individual plot. The tomato go up one pole and cukes go up the other in one plot, and snow peas go up the 72" high trellis. Each autumn I move the trellis to the next plot.
I use the 48" chain link fence at the far end as an alternate trellis and pumpkin plot. One plot is a growing-on bed for bonsai. An asparagus plot runs 18' long x 48" wide along the fence beyond the front plots, with 12" cement blocks surrounding it to walk on and prevent weeds. The rabbit fence is a blessing that can't be over valued.
I only dig what I need, the rest is air space between plant and doesn't need anything done. Once in a while I do turn a whole plot, just for kicks. I occasional rabbit always has a place in my garden, about a foot deep.
