Tomato Plants - 2 different issues.

[phkc070408]

I started my tomatoes indoors. They were doing well in the starter cells and now they're in 4 inch Pots.
They were started and are now in Miracle Grow potting mix. That said, I'm hesitant to give them too much fertilizer.
I think I did a good job with the soil temp when they were in trays. After transferring them to pots, I kept the heat mats on.
I was using low power grow lights, but changed my lights after learning that what I was using was junk.
They are now in a mini-greenhouse.
I'm now seeing 2 issues:

1. My plum Tomato plants are all turning slightly yellow. I'm assuming it's a fertilizer issue, but I don't know if I'm going too heavy or too light. I could also be wrong in my assumption.
2. My cherry and Beefsteaks - some have responded superb to the better lighting and are flourishing. Others are wilting away.

Any help is appreciated. Thanks

 

[phkc070408]

Additional info that.

1. I was trying to water them from the bottom, but might have over-watered them. I was trying to keep the top slightly damp and the middle and bottom oil was most likely drenched, since my pan was staying full.
2. There are now purple spots on the bottoms of the leaves and even some of the stems.
3. Symptoms started after putting them in the mini greenhouse. (I was excited about my new lighting system and the lighting system rests perfectly on top of the mini-greenhouse).

I found this on Google AI. Indoor tomato plants with brown undersides on leaves often suffer from fungal diseases (early blight/Septoria), pest infestations(spider mites), or inconsistent watering. Common causes include high humidity with low airflow leading to blight, or dry, warm indoor conditions causing mite outbreaks. Immediate action involves removing damaged leaves and improving air

Rules I think I violated:

1. No air circulation
2. Humid warm environment. (probably too tropical for tomatoes)

I wouldn't think it's a pest, since they're indoors
Could be Fungal

My action so far:
Removing them from the greenhouse
Putting a fan on them
Draining the smelly water in the tray.

1. Are these even savable for good tomato production?
2. If savable, any recommended actions other than what I did?

See updated pictures from tonight.

 

[phkc070408]

Forgot to attach the pics

 

[Meadowlark]

IMO, you will be better served by replacing those plants. Tomatoes can sometimes seemingly recover but the production will be significantly reduced. Better to go with new plants.

P.s. re your rule #2...tomatoes are considered tropical and thrive in warm humid environment

 

[phkc070408]

P.s. re your rule #2...tomatoes are considered tropical and thrive in warm humid environment

What about the rule? At first I thought it would be ideal, but putting them in such environment is when they started to go downhill.

 

[DiggersJo]

I think AI has got it just about right.

 

[Sheal]

Tomatoes won't survive in tropical conditions - too hot and too damp. You say they are in a mini greenhouse, is that indoors or out? If the plants are indoors I would bring them into natural light removing the heat mat and lights.

I think the larger plants need to be potted on into larger pots. Usually, as a rule for British growers we don't feed plants until they start to set flowers - fertilising young plants can often kill as they can't cope with the extra nutrients. They also need more space between them for air circulation. Watering them from the top is better, avoiding water contact with the leaves.

Some of the plants look too far gone to recover, they would be best removed, but it's worthwhile carrying on with the others to see if they will recover.

 

[Ostrodamus]

TL;DR - Way too much moisture = lower your humidity. Add air flow. Remove standing water after 20 mins. Let soil dry, you're drowning them. Cull the weak. Pot up.

Lemme catch my breath before I go in...

I'm with Sheal here. Tomatoes simply won't survive true tropical conditions. If you've ever tried to grow in climates like that of Florida, you'll know what I mean. You have to intervene to the point that it's no longer "tropical conditions". The main culprits being the humidity and subsequent moisture that remains, always. When there is too much moisture in the air due to high humidity, the leaves struggle to transpire (evaporate) their excess water because the air is already filled with moisture. This leads to poor water absorption from the soil (why drink when we're drowning?), which leads us to the next point(s) of nutrient uptake.

I don't see any signs of bugs in the photos. I believe the yellowing and purple spots are almost certainly due to overwatering causing the roots to have a failure in nutrient (phos) uptake. They're drowning and as a result, they're swallowing ALL THE WATER and subsequently very LITTLE NUTRIENTS. (I know it seems counterintuitive; aren't the nutrients in the water?) Leaving standing water is also a no-no for pretty much all plants as a general rule. You should bottom water for around 20 minutes and then dump it or vacuum it. You should NOT be maintaining a moist soil base throughout, instead it should fluctuate, with the top becoming dry (never arid) before watering again. Seeing a dry topsoil layer is one thing, but if you lift the cell/pot you'll instantly know the truth. "Ooh that's deceivingly heavy for looking so dry! Not yet." vs "Ooh that's light as a feather, dry as suspected! Water immediately.". The green algae on the soil is a primary indicator of way too much humidity, as are the dripping enclosure walls lol

Not having any airflow in an enclosed area is providing the remaining pieces of the puzzle to complete your miniature tropical rainforest enclosure. At this point it should be on 24/7 until the situation is rectified, then I keep it on lightly only during light cycles (16 hours maximum). Lightly breezing leaves, not 3-Little Pigs huff and puff and blow your house down style. Rotate trays every few days if you doubt your setup. If you have a hygrometer (for relative humidity RH) then shoot to keep the humidity between 50-60%, as 60%+ is technically considered "tropical". I don't tend to see negative effects until the 70% range, like when my succulents are being divas in my seed tent, and I have to compensate by cranking up the RH. That's when I see heavy drooping, exactly how I felt when I was slogging through similar environments in the military... just more difficult than ought be.

The lighting looks much better this time. I'd still be interested in your PAR readings, but less important for this issue.

Avoid all nutrients until things stabilize a bit. I'd say probably 2 weeks, but this is your call based on what you're seeing, and this is not a static timeline. Let the soil dry considerably before watering again.

You've got a mixed batch of plants here, most are fine and salvageable, but as Meadowlark stated, severely stunted or shocked toms will underproduce and if you're a "bang for buck" kinda guy (if I remember from the peppers) then cull the weak (Pics 0996/0997; bottom right quadrant has some candidates for euthanasia; 0999/1002 as well - Upper quadrant). Kill the weak, trim the dying, up-pot them all.

As always, this is my opinion. I'm not aiming to undermine or overrule anyone. I simply have my own experiences and views. Respect to all.