Theory on Blossom End Rot

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I've been reading about it while now. Seems the calmag this is mostly myth but couldn't hurt, everything in moderation. It appears the calcium deficiency is caused by the end rot, not that the calcium deficieny causes the end rot... per reading.

The question is then still what causes the end rot.

I notice it appears almost randomly... some of plants have zero end rot, others have it but not on every mater. Genetics has to play a role, but in the end the underlying cause that starts the process is probably the same in all cases.

I'm wondering if the actual blossom staying on the tomatoe (or squash even, cause a few of mine were mushy) for too long is the cause.

The dried blossom, physically connected to the tomatoe like a babies umbilical cord. Rooting, getting wet and siphoning water and pathogens straight into the tomatoe end... weeks or more after it was already fertilized.

Just a theory... so I have been knocking the blossoms off.

Am I insaine?
 
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Squash has to be cross pollinated from another flower, tomatoes can self pollinate from the same flower. A poorly or non pollinated cucurbit (squash, cucumber, melons) can look like blossom end rot. There are some cucumbers that are self pollinating I think. Other things can cause a calcium deficiency such as too much N or pH way off.
 
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I learned to start with drainage issues because of our dense clay. If the plant cannot breathe (transpire) then the method it uses to draw nutrients is ruined anyway. This is generally evident long before fruiting. Past that its just making sure fertilizing is available and that means not presuming an organic fertilizer is immediately available. Some folks use magnesium sulfate to help but by then it actually best to occasionally test soil so you are not blindly creating too much of a good thing which can be worse than too little. A little goes a long way. Imagine how much (little) you would eat if your metabolism was so slow you only transpired once per day.
 
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Blossom End Rot is caused by the inability to process calcium from soil that is too dry. The main reason is the soil moisture is not constant enough for the plant to absorb the calcium it needs There are two possible fixes, one is to not let the soil get too dry, and the other is to supplement the water with cal mag supplement. .
 

Meadowlark

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There seems to be endless discussion of BER as to causes and fixes. For me, it is incredibly simple...no worry about causes as it just doesn't matter...the fix is Epsom salts. Period. It works for me. I really don't care why it works just that it does.

Nothing more heartbreaking in gardening than to watch a perfectly bountiful tomato crop fall to BER. Not here, not ever. Epsom salts works and without it I probably couldn't grow tomatoes. My calcium = 464 ppm much higher than top of optimum range at 320 ppm...but still must have Epsom salts added during growing. Magnesium and Iron and Manganese high also in my soil which is slightly acidic.

I stopped trying to figure out BER when I discovered Epsom salts. It just doesn't matter.
 
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There seems to be endless discussion of BER as to causes and fixes. For me, it is incredibly simple...no worry about causes as it just doesn't matter...the fix is Epsom salts. Period. It works for me. I really don't care why it works just that it does.

Nothing more heartbreaking in gardening than to watch a perfectly bountiful tomato crop fall to BER. Not here, not ever. Epsom salts works and without it I probably couldn't grow tomatoes. My calcium = 464 ppm much higher than top of optimum range at 320 ppm...but still must have Epsom salts added during growing. Magnesium and Iron and Manganese high also in my soil which is slightly acidic.

I stopped trying to figure out BER when I discovered Epsom salts. It just doesn't matter.E
Epsom salt is good only when there's plenty of calcium in the soil. .
 
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Epsom salt is good only when there's plenty of calcium in the soil. .
I hear a lot of people use it and it must work good if the plant for some reason isn't able to draw calcium from the soil but not a single thing in the list on the back of the Epsom salt container says it contains calcium.
 

Meadowlark

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but not a single thing in the list on the back of the Epsom salt container says it contains calcium.
It doesn't. The interesting thing to me is my soil is also high in sulfur and magnesium the key components of Epsom Salts (magnesium sulfate). Something at work we don't understand. I've seen people claim on here it only works if calcium is low, only works if ph is high, only works if ... and etc. Works for me!
 
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Like an old compost pile the nutrients in soil are often locked up. For example Nature does not store her Iron here as usable iron. Its iron oxide and makes our Red Mountain red. So adding some helps.
 
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Many years ago I was throwing clamshells into the garden for extra calcium. Those shells are still there. Point being, the calcium might be in the soil but is bound to something else and not free for the plants to use.

The Epson salt might break those bonds and free up the calcium.
 

Heirloom farmer1969

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I have used Epsom salts on tomatoes and peppers since I first planted my first garden.
My papaw used it so I picked it up from him.
I guess I know now why I don't never have a problem with Ber.
 

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