Parthenocarpic Cucumber Variety


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It is impossible to say which is true. I can only go by my own experience. On my Beit Alphas the first blooms were all male but soon changed to about 95% female. Most of the female flowers did not produce or set fruit. Total production of the plants were quite a bit less than on my monocious plants. Losing 25 embryos can only be either wrong seeds or weather/nutrition related. I suspect you were sent the wrong seeds but cannot say for sure. You can grow cucumbers year round where you are. Your plant is healthy. You are getting plenty of flowers and embryos, so either you were sent seeds which require pollinators or it is a nutrition problem. Your plant looks good so plenty of nitrogen. You are getting plenty of blooms so plenty of phosphorus. But the embryos do not grow which could be a lack of potassium. It could also be lack of pollination=wrong seeds. I would get more seeds from a different source and I would start using either liquid seaweed or liquid kelp regularly as they are both a great source of potassium.
You said for Beit Alphas when you grew them: "Most of the female flowers did not produce or set fruit."
This is the same problem I am having.
What was the cause of your problem?
 
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If the plant set fruit on every flower the plant could not successfully grow that many fruits. Sort of like not thinning a peach tree. I also think, but don't know for sure, that parthenocarpic varieties just don't produce that much fruit. A normal monocious plant will produce 15-20 fruits. My Beit Alphas produced about half that. I grew 9 of the Beit Alphas. Big beautiful plants, but the amount of flowers was not even close to those of the Monocious cucs. This has nothing to do with the problem at hand but cucumbers have a producing lifespan of about 50-60 days so if your plants have been flowering for that length of time you may as well pull them up and replant.
 
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Things are not always predictable, I grew four plants, one looked really strong and healthy, stayed small and did nothing, one got attacked by a huge slug that ate the stem down to the fibres. That one recovered, grew a big lump around the damaged place and was the best of all, the other two performed averagely.
Only two of us, but we like a lot of cucumber, not just salad, the missus makes a wicked curry and she will grate a whole one into yoghurt to go with it
 
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With parthenocarpic varieties, male flowers are only produced when the plant is badly stressed, & this would tie in with so many starting then aborting.
Diva cukes are usually 6-8 inches long, and I've picked up to eight of them from one plant at a time; the 14" long ones tend to restrict to to or three.
I start mine in March, & they finished about two weeks ago.
So, we need to find out what's stressed your plants, to avoid that next time, so I need your whole growing method, the weather, your feeding & watering regime, the lot.
Hopefully this will also answer the message you sent me.
 
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With parthenocarpic varieties, male flowers are only produced when the plant is badly stressed, & this would tie in with so many starting then aborting.
Diva cukes are usually 6-8 inches long, and I've picked up to eight of them from one plant at a time; the 14" long ones tend to restrict to to or three.
I start mine in March, & they finished about two weeks ago.
So, we need to find out what's stressed your plants, to avoid that next time, so I need your whole growing method, the weather, your feeding & watering regime, the lot.
Hopefully this will also answer the message you sent me.
About how high are the temperatures to stress a parthenocarpic variety. I have only grown them once last year and was disappointed at their production. My plants were beautiful but it was also in the high 80's-mid 90's. These temps did not bother my monocious varieties.
 
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With parthenocarpic varieties, male flowers are only produced when the plant is badly stressed, & this would tie in with so many starting then aborting.
Diva cukes are usually 6-8 inches long, and I've picked up to eight of them from one plant at a time; the 14" long ones tend to restrict to to or three.
I start mine in March, & they finished about two weeks ago.
So, we need to find out what's stressed your plants, to avoid that next time, so I need your whole growing method, the weather, your feeding & watering regime, the lot.
Hopefully this will also answer the message you sent me.

Thanks for getting back to me. To sum it up:
Plant 1:
only female flowers, all but one aborted.
Plant 2:
for the first 1 month, only male flowers. After which now there are some female flowers, still aborting.

These were my only cucumber plants, both Diva. I believe I have the 6-8 inch long ones.

I had one container with a 16-inch diameter, and it was also about 16 inches deep. I sowed a couple of seeds in the container and thinned to two plants.

As it always in South Florida, the weather was hot with the high passing 90 F (32C) almost every day.

The seeds were sowed in late Ausust-early september.

Usually, heavy rain occurs in July to late August in my area. It generally pours for 0.5-1 hours a couple of times a week in those months. And it usually only rains very lightly and infrequently in September and afterward.

This year has been way different. From September 1st-21st, I can tell you that it has rained moderately/heavily for around half an hour to an hour a day for at least 18 days of those 21 days. This is in September, very rare. So, in short, we were having a ton of rain. The container got way too much water as you could expect. This may have contributed to so many cucumbers aborting.

During this time period, I of course never watered.

I had my first flowers (only female) on September 22nd for Plant 1.
Plant 2 grew's its first flowers (male) around October 3rd. Note that plant one is 10 days younger than plant two. By late October is grew it's first female flowers. I may have misspoken about the timeline of events before but everything in this message is correct.

The heavy rain stopped this year as the end of September came. Afterward, I generally watered so that the soil would be moist but not drenched.

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These are pictures in which some cucumbers have aborted. The pictures are from October 10th, when it had been around 10-15 days since the heavy rain stopped.

I put fertilizer in the soil before sowing the seeds, close to 1.5 cups. On around September 25th, I put 1-1.5 cups again. By mid-October, I was going to put fertilize again. But none of the female flowers grew to full size, so I wondered if it is even worth putting fertilizer, would it go to waste, etc. since the female flowers were aborting. I regret it now, but I didn't fertilize then, and even after that. Looking back, it seems very foolish of me.

That was my growing method.

Thanks a ton.
 
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it is good that you carefully observed your plants, this knowledge will help you going forward.
Are you planning to keep your plants over winter and see if they produce better come Spring, or are you going to start over with new plants, perhaps of a different cultivar?
 
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I would start growing a a different cultivar in the spring for an experiment.

The parthenocarpic varieties that I grow have a large number of feminine flowers. Almost every flower turns into a fruit, in turn. I plant 6-7 plants and I get several baskets of cucumbers. I choose varieties with a bouquet ovary of fruits and I do not need to cut off the side shoots. My biggest problem is finding people to whom I can give these cucumbers.
My conditions are spring sowing (May in my climate, sow in the first few days in a large plastic cup for better root development), abundant watering, high humidity and fertilization (watering 2 times with nettle infusion).

This is an F1 hybrid.
 

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it is good that you carefully observed your plants, this knowledge will help you going forward.
Are you planning to keep your plants over winter and see if they produce better come Spring, or are you going to start over with new plants, perhaps of a different cultivar?
New plants around late January- February. As for cultivar, I'm thinking the same one, or maybe Beit Alpha, unless you have a specific suggestion of a different cultivar? I prefer slicing cucumbers.
 
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I would start growing a a different cultivar in the spring for an experiment.

The parthenocarpic varieties that I grow have a large number of feminine flowers. Almost every flower turns into a fruit, in turn. I plant 6-7 plants and I get several baskets of cucumbers. I choose varieties with a bouquet ovary of fruits and I do not need to cut off the side shoots. My biggest problem is finding people to whom I can give these cucumbers.
My conditions are spring sowing (May in my climate, sow in the first few days in a large plastic cup for better root development), abundant watering, high humidity and fertilization (watering 2 times with nettle infusion).

This is an F1 hybrid.
Interesting. What are the names of your varieties?
 
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Interesting. What are the names of your varieties?
This "Herman" F1 cucumber appeared thanks to the breeders of the Dutch company MONSANTO HOLLAND B.V.
And several varieties that were created here as a result of complex crosses of European varieties with original specimens from Vietnam and China.
F1 Balcony and F1 City Cucumber, F1 Bouquet, F1 Hit of the Season and many others.
 
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