My outdoor flowers won't bloom anymore, please help.

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I have a small flowerbed in front of my house, I believe I have some hibiscus, gladiolus, irises, tulips, hydrangeas and morning glorys. They have been established for 8 years but now the last couple of years I get no flowers just extra long leaves and stems. Except for the morning glorys do bloom, but nothing else. Last year I put down some higher phosphorus fertilizer and that didn't help. So this year I was going to just put down a good layer of miracle grow garden soil and am hoping that will fix it. I do still have the fabric weed barrier underneath from 8 years ago I didn't want to have to pull that up. Any other suggestions I can get, or should that fix my problem?
Thank you!
 
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It sounds like your plants are starved. I also wonder if they get any sunshine where they are. If your garden is on top of that weed barrier, your plants will suffer. Piling stuff on top is a waste of time and money. It would be better to get rid of the weed barrier and improve your soil. It may be a big job, but the results should be worth it.
The answer will be in the soil. I personally do not like the miracle grow stuff at all, but that's just my opinion.
Welcome to the forums by the way :)
 
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It sounds like your plants are starved. I also wonder if they get any sunshine where they are. If your garden is on top of that weed barrier, your plants will suffer. Piling stuff on top is a waste of time and money. It would be better to get rid of the weed barrier and improve your soil. It may be a big job, but the results should be worth it.
The answer will be in the soil. I personally do not like the miracle grow stuff at all, but that's just my opinion.
Welcome to the forums by the way :)
Yes it gets full sun most of the day so it has to be the soil. I was hoping I didn't have to pull it all up but after 2 years of no flowers that's what I'm going to have to do. Thanks a lot for the advice!
 
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I don't know why, but if it were vegetables my guess would be too much nitrogen, probably in the ammonia form since it clings to soil where nitrates flow with water, but ammonia will evaporate in the sun, if exposed to sunlight.

Your answer may lie within a complete soil test. Here at the CO-OP they don't test for nitrogen in their so called complete test but they test every thing else. Maybe they would if I specifically wanted them too, I'm not sure but it is on the paper results but empty. The dirt has to be dry and ground up basically before they ship it so I suppose that is why they dont test the nitrogen content because it would be inconsistant. Anyways whether or not it is nitrogen or not, the soil test may tell you what is wrong. It could be an overabundance of something such as the phosphorus as it doesn't move out of the soil very much.

I think @Meadowlark does a soil test that does test for nitrogen by default. Maybe he can tell us who it is.
 

Meadowlark

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...I think @Meadowlark does a soil test that does test for nitrogen by default. Maybe he can tell us who it is.

Yes, I use " MySoil". They test for 15 different macro/micro nutrients including Total Nitrogen. They also provide a nutrient density score and post the results to your own secured online account where you can compare past test results.
 
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If the useable soil is stuck underneath the weed barrier, it will not be possible to test it, let alone add something to correct it. The first thing to do is allow the soil underneath to start breathing. When that soil has been properly prepared, and some new plants added, it would be the best idea then to mulch using material that will slowly break down and add benefit to the garden. Always apply mulch around plants after planting and AFTER rain or heavy watering.
Weed barrier is a problem when used wrongly. It is wonderful for putting under paved areas though, and other controlled garden methods. Roots need depth of soil though without barrier.
 
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If the useable soil is stuck underneath the weed barrier, it will not be possible to test it, let alone add something to correct it. The first thing to do is allow the soil underneath to start breathing. When that soil has been properly prepared, and some new plants added, it would be the best idea then to mulch using material that will slowly break down and add benefit to the garden. Always apply mulch around plants after planting and AFTER rain or heavy watering.
Weed barrier is a problem when used wrongly. It is wonderful for putting under paved areas though, and other controlled garden methods. Roots need depth of soil though without barrier.
Thank you for the info
 
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If you are only getting tulip leaves, then it may be time to plant brand new tulip bulbs in the fall.
Dig out the present tulips and try to keep the leaves and stems attached to the bulbs. Then trash the bulbs.
 

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