Dyna-Gro Test Grow

Heirloom Roma Tomatos in RDWC using Dyna-Gro nutrients.

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You have a future as a plumber. Will the tomatoes be determinate? I am curious about air circulation and fungi. And bacteria too, but your insect level will be unique.
 
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You have a future as a plumber. Will the tomatoes be determinate? I am curious about air circulation and fungi. And bacteria too, but your insect level will be unique.
I'm retired, lol. Air circulation is great. My insect level should stay zero. I used to use Hydroguard in all of my hydroponic systems to rid unwanted bacteria, but am going to run Dyna-Gro's Dyna-Zyme to test it out. I also can run a low water temperature, so that helps. Under 72F is where you want your water.



Dyna-ZYME™



Description
Dyna-ZYME™ is designed to cleanse your plants roots, soil, media and hydroponic systems of plant exudates, bio-film, sludge, slime and algae.

  • Dyna-ZYME is a one part blend of proprietary enzymes.
  • Works in conjunction with mycorrhizae and beneficial bacteria to break down nutrients, organics, sweeteners, carbohydrates and dead plant material.
  • This clears the pores of the roots allowing for vigorous nutrient uptake into the plant.
  • It is naturally brewed with certified organic and food grade ingredients.
  • Dyna-ZYME is 100% pure enzymes with no bacteria, oils, detergents, soaps, surfactants, chlorine, hydrogen peroxide, collodial silver or harsh chemicals that can hurt your plants or microbes.
Application Rates:
Use 1 tsp. per gallon of water at each or every other watering. Reapply with every nutrient change.

Recommended Crops: All plants in hydroponic and aquaponic systems as well as soil.
 
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Day 5
20181115_120805.jpg
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The romas are just starting to come up. A little bit more and I'll move them to hydroton.
20181115_123003.jpg
 
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Day 6
It's time to transplant the tomatoes. Finally the fun gets to start.
20181116_041620.jpg

I used coco to sprout them. After the tap root is about 1" long I'transplant them. When the plants get established, this hydroton is small, but at this stage, they are boulders. The small roots need to be touching the hydroton or they will dry out. I sort them out and try to just use the small ones for this part. These are 2" netpots.
20181115_214713.jpg

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I mixed up a week 1 solution at 150ppm pH 6.0 and soaked the hydroton for a few hours so that they can absorb the solution.
20181116_041655.jpg


I then sat the plant in the hydroton and filled in around it. I put the net pots in a tray and filled it up about 1" with the week 1 solution.
20181116_042536.jpg

The hydroton will wick this water up and feed the plants, so all I have to do is keep water in the tray. They aren't drinking much right now, so I shouldn't have to do anything to them for a few days.
The roots aren't in the water, they are above it. They are feeding though capillary action from the hydroton.
20181116_044003.jpg

This is a stage. the next stage is when the roots start to show. I will then move them to 6" net pots. That will be their last pot, and after some growth they will go into the RDWC.
So now we just watch for roots.
Everything else is coming on strong. Still feeding week 1 at 1/3 strength.
20181116_054130.jpg
 
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your insect level will be unique.
I meant to come back to this. I said it should stay at zero, and here's why. Nothing in my house came from outdoors. Everything came from seed, so I haven't brought anything in on a plant. Also, I have no soil in my house. I use hydro for everything, and even this is considered hydroponics. It is also called a soillless medium. Insects don't do too well in it. The only thing I really have to worry about is fungus gnats or something that flies in from outside. I try to keep a clean work space, and have had fungus gnats before, but not in this house. For no soil, things have to get pretty bad for them to show up. It's frozen outside, so hopefully I'm good for the winter.
I also have some help from Dyna-Gro's Pro-TeKt
20181116_065027.jpg
20181116_065043.jpg


The silica helps to strengthen the cell walls of the plant. This actually makes it harder to chew for insects, and they move on.
 
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I like and use silica myself in my garden. I really like that it can be found with potassium, something my clay leaches. I also like that there is a residue on the plants that directly intervenes with airborne pathogens that will land on the surface of a plant, much as an agricultural oil would, save I believe it lasts longer in the weather. I know there are powdered versions available for those with a tiller like myself, but the essential oil surfacing aspect is very useful in the sense that in order to pentetrate cells most fungi and bacteria use biochemical means which a silicone "wax" precludes. Of course there are clays that can be sprayed toward the same end, but a breathable "plant wax" is a cool idea. Obviously this does not stop anything capable of entering stomata.

*or wounds from piercing insects.
 
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I've been away doing upgrades to my system. Since I was cleaning it and had it empty, I did a few things I have been wanting to do.

The first is I was going to experiment with the waterfall technique to add O2 to the water. I've always used air stones in the past. I decided to add the air stones in addition to the waterfall so that it won't be a problem.



The second is I wanted a fail safe in the event of roots clogging a drain, A lot of people run a screen of some sort, but roots will clog just about anything, so I put in an overflow. Every time I check the reservoir, which is at least once a day I can glance at the overflow pipe and nothing should be coming out of it. If there is water coming out of it, it means I have a clog, or the beginning of a clog and that bucket's drain is being bypassed, instead of flooding and pumping basically the entire system on the floor.





Normally the reservoir returns should look like this.





I had to test it, so I used a 100% clog for the test and let it run.





In no time it had filled up and began to bypass instead of flood.





Water coming out of the small pipe tells me that I have a clog, and I can start looking for it to unclog it (cut roots back).





Now I can sleep at night not having to worry about it. I have to prep the water and let everything stabilize before adding plants.
 
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Joined
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Location
Birmingham, AL USA
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8a
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United States
I've been away doing upgrades to my system. Since I was cleaning it and had it empty, I did a few things I have been wanting to do.

The first is I was going to experiment with the waterfall technique to add O2 to the water. I've always used air stones in the past. I decided to add the air stones in addition to the waterfall so that it won't be a problem.



The second is I wanted a fail safe in the event of roots clogging a drain, A lot of people run a screen of some sort, but roots will clog just about anything, so I put in an overflow. Every time I check the reservoir, which is at least once a day I can glance at the overflow pipe and nothing should be coming out of it. If there is water coming out of it, it means I have a clog, or the beginning of a clog and that bucket's drain is being bypassed, instead of flooding and pumping basically the entire system on the floor.





Normally the reservoir returns should look like this.





I had to test it, so I used a 100% clog for the test and let it run.





In no time it had filled up and began to bypass instead of flood.





Water coming out of the small pipe tells me that I have a clog, and I can start looking for it to unclog it (cut roots back).





Now I can sleep at night not having to worry about it. I have to prep the water and let everything stabilize before adding plants.

That is something I have never seen. Makes solid sense though!
 

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