Hi, I am looking for some advice on how to retain a corner of my yard that is up against a cliff. It currently has some vinca minor above the cliff and that is about it. In the Spring I was planning on planting a Weeping White Spruce in the corner (where the white rock us) but am confused on how to deal with the side which is eroding into the yard. That side is also the property line. I was thinking maybe jamming some different sized cobblestones from the quarry up in there with maybe more vinca but am not a landscaper and unsure if I can make it look good or not. Would appreciate some ideas that are more of a basic solution. Not interested in timbers or huge stones here since access is limited.
Advice retaining sloped corner without formal retaining wall
- Thread starter Clef
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2017
- Messages
- 6,905
- Reaction score
- 5,073
- Location
- Birmingham, AL USA
- Hardiness Zone
- 8a
- Country
Well it would take me a couple of years but this is what I would need:
1) Concrete. Plan on a stiff mix because of the slope. I hate heavy stuff but a few bags here and there consistently over time is good excercise. I am not going to call a truck for this decorative stone idea.
2) Concrete dye. There are different colors. Not sure about that via one pic. Gray is a color too though, common to our trees.
3) 2.5 -3 inch vertical blind replacement strips.
4) Duct tape or Gorilla tape.
5) A flat rectangle trowel and a rounded edger trowel
6) Rebar Spikes or short rebars. The 3 (3\8") works and is cheaper and easier to deal with for me. I can cut them with my big bolt cutters or a metal blade. This gets driven into the hill to keep the concrete stones you make from sliding down.
All you do is tape the blind material end to end making a loop. Because it is a circle (diameter) and you know the depth, volume is easy to calculate so you make 1 bag or 2 bag or 3 bag loops. No waste. Make the shape irregular and stone shaped, and as it stiffens work the edges rounded over and so forth for the finish Nothing flat and perfect, just ups and downs and dents like stone. Youtube has creative concrete video. Leave room between for planting something and make a few planters or water troughs as you go up. The zigzag pattern will slow erosive water flow. You can even make decorative Tesla Valves.
What I would not do is create a dam of any sort. The weight of built up water can grow to impressive numbers in small spaces and should it dislodge that weight comes downhill with a weight multiplied by its speed.
Living where I do, I imagine I would leave a rough surface to encourage moss. I am sure something might be suitable for your unique microclimate.
These materials are all very alkaline. One may wait and let rain balance things out. One may also use a material called hypertufa. That is a whole 'nother talk but it is also really cool stuff.
If the freeze cycle breaks things where you are, use "latex admix" instead of water for the concrete. Water cannot penetrate then, or should you have birdbaths and other creative ideas they will not leak or saturate the masonry so the cold will not later fracture your work.
1) Concrete. Plan on a stiff mix because of the slope. I hate heavy stuff but a few bags here and there consistently over time is good excercise. I am not going to call a truck for this decorative stone idea.
2) Concrete dye. There are different colors. Not sure about that via one pic. Gray is a color too though, common to our trees.
3) 2.5 -3 inch vertical blind replacement strips.
4) Duct tape or Gorilla tape.
5) A flat rectangle trowel and a rounded edger trowel
6) Rebar Spikes or short rebars. The 3 (3\8") works and is cheaper and easier to deal with for me. I can cut them with my big bolt cutters or a metal blade. This gets driven into the hill to keep the concrete stones you make from sliding down.
All you do is tape the blind material end to end making a loop. Because it is a circle (diameter) and you know the depth, volume is easy to calculate so you make 1 bag or 2 bag or 3 bag loops. No waste. Make the shape irregular and stone shaped, and as it stiffens work the edges rounded over and so forth for the finish Nothing flat and perfect, just ups and downs and dents like stone. Youtube has creative concrete video. Leave room between for planting something and make a few planters or water troughs as you go up. The zigzag pattern will slow erosive water flow. You can even make decorative Tesla Valves.
What I would not do is create a dam of any sort. The weight of built up water can grow to impressive numbers in small spaces and should it dislodge that weight comes downhill with a weight multiplied by its speed.
Living where I do, I imagine I would leave a rough surface to encourage moss. I am sure something might be suitable for your unique microclimate.
These materials are all very alkaline. One may wait and let rain balance things out. One may also use a material called hypertufa. That is a whole 'nother talk but it is also really cool stuff.
If the freeze cycle breaks things where you are, use "latex admix" instead of water for the concrete. Water cannot penetrate then, or should you have birdbaths and other creative ideas they will not leak or saturate the masonry so the cold will not later fracture your work.
Last edited:
Greetings, welcome to the Forums.
You have a lot of space in front of that retaining wall. Build two more retaining walls, each two or three feet lower than the one behind and about five or six feet out. You'll now have a series of low terraces instead of a single high, precarious, crumbling, retaining wall. I would build the walls of pre-made, concrete, cinder blocks, They come in a variety of shapes and colors and can be filled and reinforced with concrete and rebar . Also use the blocks to build steps between each terrace. You'll also need to purchase a truckload or two of topsoil to fill in the terrace cavities. Perhaps this is more elaborate than what you were intending, but that wall looks like big problem waiting to happen.
You have a lot of space in front of that retaining wall. Build two more retaining walls, each two or three feet lower than the one behind and about five or six feet out. You'll now have a series of low terraces instead of a single high, precarious, crumbling, retaining wall. I would build the walls of pre-made, concrete, cinder blocks, They come in a variety of shapes and colors and can be filled and reinforced with concrete and rebar . Also use the blocks to build steps between each terrace. You'll also need to purchase a truckload or two of topsoil to fill in the terrace cavities. Perhaps this is more elaborate than what you were intending, but that wall looks like big problem waiting to happen.
Are those dead tree stumps on that hill?
Ask you neighbor if you can have them, if that tree on the right is dead everything you need is right there.
Flatten out the area you want your tree and use the trunks to make steps up leaving spaces between them and plant creeping phlock to hold your banks together when the logs rot. That place has a lot of potential if you like rustic. The vinca would hold it together also, that dark corner would look brighter with lots of color.
Ask you neighbor if you can have them, if that tree on the right is dead everything you need is right there.
Flatten out the area you want your tree and use the trunks to make steps up leaving spaces between them and plant creeping phlock to hold your banks together when the logs rot. That place has a lot of potential if you like rustic. The vinca would hold it together also, that dark corner would look brighter with lots of color.
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2021
- Messages
- 3,433
- Reaction score
- 2,146
- Country
So you don't want to build a retaining wall or lug heavy materials up there. I would knock some three foot stakes in all along the edge, that would help hold things together, and leave about six inches above ground. Then I would put a gravel board up against the bits sticking out of the ground and give it a tap along the top to bed it in a bit. The leaf litter and stuff drifting down the slope will stop against the board, not spilling down over the edge, and will gradually make a long, narrow, flat, stable surface that will take planting, choose things with good deep root systems that will hold things together. Hedging would catch anything further coming down, and doesn't necessarily have to be tall, 12" would do you.
I like the idea of creeping phlox because I have some of that in the front. The vinca minor do well back there so I will probably try to spread that over the top a bit more. Was interested in some creeping thyme but in the spring there is a patch of sweet woodruff around there which does alright so maybe I should just expand on what is already there and add a few ornamental boulders I can lift along with a couple ferns or something. I like the idea of the gravel board along with the stakes, are you talking about regular garden stakes or rebar? or actual put some posts in. Not that familiar with gravel board will have to look up some pics. I was also considering maybe a shrub maybe like 10-15 ft out from the cliff, something like a chokeberry plant or some woodland type shrub. What types of other shrub/ground cover options might work here? Does Vinca Minor + Sweet Woodruff go fine with creeping phlox? Or does that become a hot mess, not much of a landscape designer here so probably should keep it simple. What are peoples thoughts on that liriope grass with the purple flower things? Since the vinca has the purple flowers maybe it would tie together nicely? Thanks for all the input!
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2017
- Messages
- 6,905
- Reaction score
- 5,073
- Location
- Birmingham, AL USA
- Hardiness Zone
- 8a
- Country
This link may help;
A Complete Guide To Gravel Boards: Are They Essential?
Gravel boards help to protect your fence panels and increase the longevity of your fence. There are 3 main types: concrete, wood and composite. Find out how they differ in our ultimate guide to gravel boards.
Over here it is treated wood, hardie board or LP smartpanel or maybe something like Trex the composite decking sold at Lowes and Home Depot
I see, so basically some pressure treated wood or Trex boards. I know that everyone is usually down on the wood because it rots but I’ve always liked how it looks when it ages and since I already have a cliff in the back adding more cold stone makes me feel like I’m living at castle black. Since all my jobs are usually diy patchwork that I end up re-doing myself anyways I never feel like splurging on the composite stuff and just roll with treated wood typically and some sealant. I may just try out some garden stake pt board idea. I also have a bunch of old cinder blocks I could maybe line up and cement over but the board/stake idea with some plants might be just what the dr ordered. All I really need is for all these plants to take shape and something temp to sort of hold it all together reasonably for several seasons. I have all winter to ponder! 
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2017
- Messages
- 6,905
- Reaction score
- 5,073
- Location
- Birmingham, AL USA
- Hardiness Zone
- 8a
- Country
PT is ok if it can dry out.I see, so basically some pressure treated wood or Trex boards. I know that everyone is usually down on the wood because it rots but I’ve always liked how it looks when it ages and since I already have a cliff in the back adding more cold stone makes me feel like I’m living at castle black. Since all my jobs are usually diy patchwork that I end up re-doing myself anyways I never feel like splurging on the composite stuff and just roll with treated wood typically and some sealant. I may just try out some garden stake pt board idea. I also have a bunch of old cinder blocks I could maybe line up and cement over but the board/stake idea with some plants might be just what the dr ordered. All I really need is for all these plants to take shape and something temp to sort of hold it all together reasonably for several seasons. I have all winter to ponder!
- Joined
- Feb 13, 2021
- Messages
- 3,433
- Reaction score
- 2,146
- Country
I guess Dirt Mechanic has answered your question about gravel board, it is the treated board people put along the bottom of a fence to lift the actual fencing off the ground. Typically it is rough cut, about an inch thick and about eight inches wide, so reasonably heavy duty and would look reasonably natural. For stakes when I am doing jobs like that I usually use treated timber, the sort of thing used in roofing. It lasts a remarkably long time and provides a degree of soak away, and if you hit a rock and can't get it in any further it can be cut off short above ground. I would put the board in place with a stake each end uphill and then use it as a guide to hammer the stakes in down hill from it, just pressing them up against the board. It is the easy way to get it lined up, and the earth against it will hold the uphill side of the board pretty soon. You could clear some stuff that has fallen back behind the board to help it.
I have no idea of your climate and what might grow there, but there are some nice ornamental ivies, a yellow variegation would stand out. In the shade under the oak tree in my garden are a lot of naturalised cyclamen, nice flowers and an evergreen, variegated leaf with a good pattern. Some of the gooseberries (ribes) don't mind a bit of shade and might do well in front of the wall, giving you a crop as well as cover, but like I say I don't really know what would be suitable for your part of the world.
I have no idea of your climate and what might grow there, but there are some nice ornamental ivies, a yellow variegation would stand out. In the shade under the oak tree in my garden are a lot of naturalised cyclamen, nice flowers and an evergreen, variegated leaf with a good pattern. Some of the gooseberries (ribes) don't mind a bit of shade and might do well in front of the wall, giving you a crop as well as cover, but like I say I don't really know what would be suitable for your part of the world.
Would add to that: Terrace where possible, to slow the spread of water and spread it more laterally across the landscape:
Please post us on what method(s) you decided to use, along with follow-up images. Great project.