Type Of Compost For Container Gardening Vegetables?

[ChrisH]

I've been container gardening vegetables for years - tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, green peppers, green beans, etc. - but I'll admit, I've never added compost to my potting mix. I've always added fertilizer during the growing season, but this year I want to use compost as well. All of the articles I find on the internet make claims about which type of compost to use, but they all have affiliate marketing links to different types of compost on Amazon. I know how affiliate marketing works but when it comes to things like potting mix, fertilizers, and now compost, I don't really trust the source. So, my question is: what type of compost should I use for container gardening vegetables?

Thank you!

 

[Meadowlark]

... what type of compost should I use for container gardening vegetables?

Thank you!

I'll tell you what I use, and you can decide if it's worth a try...

I make my own compost that I labeled "super duper" . See the thread:

Super Duper Compost

I’ve been experimenting with building a super compost made up of high nitrogen fixing green Sunn Hemp and aged cow manure. The basic technique for building I’ve found that works best is to chop up the green Sunn Hemp with garden shears, plant roots and all in a thick layer, then cover with a...

www.gardening-forums.com

You could use a different legume and possibly achieve near the same result. This tests out (from a reputable professional soil lab) at "No N, P, K required" . That is no other amendments are needed to establish a near perfect growing medium.

The "pros to this approach include:

1) no artificial fertilizers used

2) zero concern about residual herbicides using my own safe sources

3) this stuff doesn't need anything else to be added

4) very easy to make

5) very easy to store (containers can be covered)

6) retains fertility (as long as covered)

7) it is available when you need it...on demand

8) it's absolutely free

p.s not for sale

 

[big rockpile]

Seems no one of interest wants to answer. I'm using my own along with some Garden Soil. I'm also using an Organic Fertilizer.

If it was me I would use what I can find with the Fertilizer it will be fine.

I'm using Microlife pellet Fertilizer it last for 4 months.

Do not use a Synthetic Fertilizer it will kill the Microbs.

big rockpile

 

[Meadowlark]

Seems no one of interest wants to answer. ...

Err... no one of interest My super-duper compost doesn't count?

 

[ChrisH]

Err... no one of interest My super-duper compost doesn't count?

How long does it take for everything to break down so it’s usable In the garden?

 

[big rockpile]

How long does it take for everything to break down so it’s usable In the garden?

My Garden wasn't all that great. But last Fall mowed everything down, tilled it and planted a cover.

Intending to work the cover Crop in and plant in couple weeks but the soil is looking great.

big rockpile

 

[Meadowlark]

How long does it take for everything to break down so it’s usable In the garden?

It depends on several variables including the material, the moisture content, how often it is turned, etc.

For cow manure, I generally work it for about 6 months before using as compost mainly because I want to kill all pathogens and weed seeds.... about the same for chicken. The "books" say you can safely use it in weeks if you achieve adequate temps while composting. I do achieve the right temps but generally have plenty of supply so it doesn't get used for about 6 months.

I like to see it hit about 135 deg f just under the surface and measure to make sure while composting. To get that, you generally have to turn/mix it every week. It steams and throws off amazing heat when turned. The result is an odor free completely safe product.

For legumes, I generally compost them in place and plant in the bed/row in a couple of weeks.

For household stuff, yard waste, kitchen scraps, etc. I could use the compost within a month, but I always have such a large supply that it generally sits considerably longer than that.

Frequent turning/mixing and adequate moisture are important in timely composting.

The very best compost I have created as measured by lab tests has been composted cow manure layered with the best green legume (sun hemp in my case). I make the layers in large tubs and keep them covered to minimize nitrogen loss and any other nutrient loss. If using composted manure, the addition of layers of legume (to boost nitrogen) takes less than a month to be fully composted and ready to go to work in your garden.

 

[Mr_Yan]

So @ChrisH I'll go a little different direction on this after asking a few questions:

What size containers are you using?
Why don't you think what you are doing is working or why do you want to change what you're doing?

@Meadowlark's cover crops and the compost in place method of Hugelkulture may not work in your case. I've been doing the compost in place for years with great success but my containers are more small raised beds - call them 8' x 3' than what most call a container.

Lugumes and cover crops have been hard for me to use correctly as I don't easily turn them over and back into the soil. I don't have a rototiller and do my work in raised beds and containers.

Anyway I do vermicomposting with worms in things like storage tote bins. This gives me some live microbe worm castings to use rather than bulk compost. Worm castings tend to be more concentrated in nutrients but less bulk and carbon than a traditional compost. This works for me and my worm bins are large enough to process the veg kitchen scrap from my family.

I also mix un-composted stuff in the lower levels of containers as a "half-assed-Hugulkulture" container. Back in the 90s there was a popular gardening book that called this "Lasagna Gardening".

 

[big rockpile]

So @ChrisH I'll go a little different direction on this after asking a few questions:

What size containers are you using?
Why don't you think what you are doing is working or why do you want to change what you're doing?

@Meadowlark's cover crops and the compost in place method of Hugelkulture may not work in your case. I've been doing the compost in place for years with great success but my containers are more small raised beds - call them 8' x 3' than what most call a container.

Lugumes and cover crops have been hard for me to use correctly as I don't easily turn them over and back into the soil. I don't have a rototiller and do my work in raised beds and containers.

Anyway I do vermicomposting with worms in things like storage tote bins. This gives me some live microbe worm castings to use rather than bulk compost. Worm castings tend to be more concentrated in nutrients but less bulk and carbon than a traditional compost. This works for me and my worm bins are large enough to process the veg kitchen scrap from my family.

I also mix un-composted stuff in the lower levels of containers as a "half-assed-Hugulkulture" container. Back in the 90s there was a popular gardening book that called this "Lasagna Gardening".

Isn't Lasagna Gardening about the same as No Till?

big rockpile

 

[Meadowlark]

@ChrisH ,

I think you might find the thread referenced below to be of relevant interest. It isn't about composting per se, but a demonstration on using compost and legumes to replenish a single container in situ.

The container had previously grown potatoes which had completely depleted soil...see soil test provided. In six weeks, the container was restored to "No N, P. K, required" status completely in situ with zero artificial fertilizers and zero equipment. Again, see soil test provided in the thread.

Compost and a legume...nothing else required.

Anyone can do this, and it is very inexpensive. Raised bed absolutely no problem...container can be large or small doesn't matter.

If you were to prepare the super-duper compost I referenced earlier and had it available, the six weeks would be zero. That is what I do to my containers with great success.

Small scale demonstration of biodynamic farming, soil replenishment, cover cropping, crop rotation, permaculture, polyculture, and organic gardening

No worries. Nothing more anoying than someone banging on endlessly about their pet project and inserting it into every thread going. My bad xx LOL

www.gardening-forums.com

 

[Mr_Yan]

@ChrisH ,

I think you might find the thread referenced below to be of relevant interest. It isn't about composting per se, but a demonstration on using compost and legumes to replenish a single container in situ.

Small scale demonstration of biodynamic farming, soil replenishment, cover cropping, crop rotation, permaculture, polyculture, and organic gardening

No worries. Nothing more anoying than someone banging on endlessly about their pet project and inserting it into every thread going. My bad xx LOL

www.gardening-forums.com

Umm, I must have been on a few bike rides in July. I missed that whole thread... (and yes I did a few hundred miles on my bike in July)

 

[ChrisH]

So @ChrisH I'll go a little different direction on this after asking a few questions:

What size containers are you using?
Why don't you think what you are doing is working or why do you want to change what you're doing?

@Meadowlark's cover crops and the compost in place method of Hugelkulture may not work in your case. I've been doing the compost in place for years with great success but my containers are more small raised beds - call them 8' x 3' than what most call a container.

Lugumes and cover crops have been hard for me to use correctly as I don't easily turn them over and back into the soil. I don't have a rototiller and do my work in raised beds and containers.

Anyway I do vermicomposting with worms in things like storage tote bins. This gives me some live microbe worm castings to use rather than bulk compost. Worm castings tend to be more concentrated in nutrients but less bulk and carbon than a traditional compost. This works for me and my worm bins are large enough to process the veg kitchen scrap from my family.

I also mix un-composted stuff in the lower levels of containers as a "half-assed-Hugulkulture" container. Back in the 90s there was a popular gardening book that called this "Lasagna Gardening".

The size of the containers I use depends on the plants. My tomato plants did really well last year in 7-gallon fabric planters. If using compost is an added benefit for the plants, I’m happy to add it.

I have worms galore where I live. I’m in a wooded area and also have tons of leaves that are decaying on one part of my property under tons of more leaves that fall every year. If you move any of the leaves, more worms. I have a whole worm farm here. Maybe I should do something with them.

 

[shorifseo247]

I've been container gardening vegetables for years - tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, green peppers, green beans, etc. - but I'll admit, I've never added compost to my potting mix. I've always added fertilizer during the growing season, but this year I want to use compost as well. All of the articles I find on the internet make claims about which type of compost to use, but they all have affiliate marketing links to different types of compost on Amazon. I know how affiliate marketing works but when it comes to things like potting mix, fertilizers, and now compost, I don't really trust the source. So, my question is: what type of compost should I use for container gardening vegetables?

Thank you!

nice post

 

[delightfulbags]

It depends on several variables including the material, the moisture content, how often it is turned, etc.

For cow manure, I generally work it for about 6 months before using as compost mainly because I want to kill all pathogens and weed seeds.... about the same for chicken. The "books" say you can safely use it in weeks if you achieve adequate temps while composting. I do achieve the right temps but generally have plenty of supply so it doesn't get used for about 6 months.

I like to see it hit about 135 deg f just under the surface and measure to make sure while composting. To get that, you generally have to turn/mix it every week. It steams and throws off amazing heat when turned. The result is an odor free completely safe product.

For legumes, I generally compost them in place and plant in the bed/row in a couple of weeks.

For household stuff, yard waste, kitchen scraps, etc., I could use the compost within a month, but I always have such a large supply that it generally sits considerably longer than that. I’ve also been checking out some Craigslist reviews to see if there are any tips on composting from other users who deal with large quantities.

Frequent turning/mixing and adequate moisture are important in timely composting.

The very best compost I have created as measured by lab tests has been composted cow manure layered with the best green legume (sun hemp in my case). I make the layers in large tubs and keep them covered to minimize nitrogen loss and any other nutrient loss. If using composted manure, the addition of layers of legume (to boost nitrogen) takes less than a month to be fully composted and ready to go to work in your garden.

Hello,

I’m planning to start a container garden on my balcony this year using 40-liter bags for each plant (tomatoes, green peppers, eggplants). I’d like to use compost as the soil but am unsure which type to choose. Could you advise on the ideal compost specifications or NPK values I should look for? Just to note, I’m not planning on using any amendments during the growing season.

Thank you for your assistance!

 

[Meadowlark]

... Could you advise on the ideal compost specifications or NPK values I should look for? Just to note, I’m not planning on using any amendments during the growing season.

I make my own compost and soil amendments and strive for nutrient values of N > 32 ppm, P > 10 ppm and K > 40 ppm. I achieve at or above those values by using well composted cow manure mixed with a green manure such as Sunn Hemp.

In order to have a continuous supply of nutrients during the growing season, particularly N, a soil that has a high degree of organic matter is needed as the Nitrogen is released over time as the organic matter breaks down, unlike synthetic fertilizers which are immediately available for uptake by plants.