Questions about making leaf mold


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These are plants around my house that are arboreal if they like you. Note the height of filter, and imagine a year of slow -aerated -vertically dropping -oxidation composting as they become the pile you see. Imagine the plants have chosen to rest their root system upon that pile.

They are horndogs for leaf mould.
 
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View attachment 93658View attachment 93659View attachment 93660View attachment 93661

These are plants around my house that are arboreal if they like you. Note the height of filter, and imagine a year of slow -aerated -vertically dropping -oxidation composting as they become the pile you see. Imagine the plants have chosen to rest their root system upon that pile.

They are horndogs for leaf mould.
I noticed that bad ass stack of rocks you got there too. I also enjoy the attacking and balancing of rocks.
 
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I found some agave syrup in my cabinet that's been there for years. I mixed it with water and dumped it on the leaves today. I was thinking of covering it for a few days ago rain doesn't wash it all off.
 
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I found some agave syrup in my cabinet that's been there for years. I mixed it with water and dumped it on the leaves today. I was thinking of covering it for a few days ago rain doesn't wash it all off.
Won't matter the leaves don't eat it. The oxidation layer is more or less the top 2 inches of soil where air can penetrate. Thats where the leaves get started from and everything too for that matter. Too bad. Mescal might have been a better use?
 
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It is for the soil microbes. It starts at the soil boundary and works its way up, so dont worry if it washes in. Piles are made from the inside out. Thats why some folks mix in soil with the leaves. Just a boring detail but hey its wintertime on a gardening forum.
 
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It is for the soil microbes. It starts at the soil boundary and works its way up, so dont worry if it washes in. Piles are made from the inside out. Thats why some folks mix in soil with the leaves. Just a boring detail but hey its wintertime on a gardening forum.
I think I understand. I thought about mixing in some soil. Maybe I'll go next door and grab a bucket full of that worm filled soil and dump it in top of my leaves, or try to bury it down in there.
 
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My experience is that the worms you find in compost and leaf piles are different from the earthworms I dig up, and that as long as there is some sort of contact with the ground they find their way there themselves. No harm adding a bit of soil though, it will be full of fungal spores and micro-organisms just waiting for something edible to burst into life.
 
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I would put them well in so they were protected from predators. I don't think it matters where exactly; unintuitively worms are fairly fast moving and will soon find where suits them best no matter where you put them.
 
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If you guys were going to introduce worms into your leaf pile would you put them on the top, in the middle, or on the bottom?
The temperature of the pile is also very important. Too cold and they will either die or leave. The same with moisture. Too little and they will go deeper. Too wet and they will either drown or come to the surface and then either die or leave. I have never seen worms is just leaves, there has to be soil too, IMO. When my soil temperature goes down to 60F the worms leave.
 
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I have never seen worms is just leaves,
Thinking about it that's true. I see them in the leaf mould at the bottom, but even then not lots like in compost. I reckon if you want them to rot down quickly your best bet would be to empty the kitchen compost in occasionally.
 
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Am I correct in assuming that I don't want to use tap water (chlorinated) to water a compost or leaf mold pile?
I would say so, yes. In my case I'm on a well so it's not an issue but for you if you let the tap water sit in a pail for a couple of days the chlorine should evaporate off, same as guys in the city do for when they keep minnows alive in a cooler in the winter.
 
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As @smitty55 stated, the chlorine will dissipate within 2 days totally. If you pour chlorinated water onto a compost pile you will do damage to the top few inches of the pile. However, soil microbes reproduce so fast that you will regain the microbes lost in a very short time. But it is better to let the chlorine gas off for a couple of days before pouring it onto the pile. During the past 50 years or so I have never added water to my compost piles, just a stale beer or coke now and then. Watering speeds things up but it is not mandatory.
 
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Dern Mr Buckle is straight to the point. Lol. Add a little white sugar to that?

If you are concerned, you can add 1 drop of 3% hydrogen peroxide per 1 ppm of free chlorine per gallon of water to neutralize it. City water usually contains 3-4 ppm of free chlorine per gallon so about 3 drops per gallon.
 
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