Debilitated tomatos

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I grow varieties of tomatoes in pots outside and in Vegas. Mostly cherry tomatoes but this year some larger varieties. (pictured is roma variety) The larger vaieties have rot or something on the bottom and usually it isn't spreading to the rest of the tomatoe. When temps are over 100 i bring all my tomatoes indoors. (Right now this is the case) so not certain this is heat related because my cherry varieties are doing very well. No signs of debility. What do you suppose is going on. (I still use the tomatoes after cutting out the debilitated portion of fully ripened fruit.) My basil and chili peppers are doing well.

Thanks for your help.
 

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Surely someone on this forum must have some idea what is going on with my tomatoes. I am veey concetned because if i need to destroy to destroy the plant then i nerd to inow that and if there is someyhing i should do to pre ent this in the future then i need to know that as well.

Thank you kindly for your consideration

Ken
 
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Sometimes the first few tomatoes can get that and then it will clear up on its own so discarding the plant is not really necessary.
 
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Sometimes the first few tomatoes can get that and then it will clear up on its own so discarding the plant is not really necessary.
Surely someone on this forum must have some idea what is going on with my tomatoes. I am very concerned because if i need to destroy to destroy the plant then i need to know that and if there is something i should do to prevent this in the future then i need to know that as well.

Thank you kindly for your consideration

Ken
 
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Thanks. I did some research on youtube and found that the condition is due to lack of calcium in the soil. Steps have been taken to alleviate the situation, namely using a common antacid purchased at the super market which is high in calcium.
 
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Usually there is plenty of calcium in the soil. Other factors can cause that condition.
 
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Thanks. I did some research on youtube and found that the condition is due to lack of calcium in the soil. Steps have been taken to alleviate the situation, namely using a common antacid purchased at the super market which is high in calcium.
It's rarely a lack of calcium in the soil but rather poor watering practices that prohibit the movement of calcium to the roots and into the fruit. Most of the time it's from dry soil and sometimes from saturated soil. Considering where you are my bet is that your soil is often too dry. Deep watering is best as opposed to frequent shallow watering. Growing in pots doesn't help either as they can be quick to dry out. The use of your antacid is a myth and useless to do as they are made of calcium carbonate which is not available to roots until it has been broken down by soil biology. Same goes for egg shells, they take even longer to break down to a form plants can use. Your best readily available source would be hardwood ashes followed by gypsum and bone meal. Or you could buy some Cal Mag.
 
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Take more and better photos and post. Doesn't quite look like blossom end rot, but it does look severly nutriet related... are you over watering or underwatering? Chances are over since in containers so that's fine. Otherwise find out what your water ph is and report back, since your in Vegas I imagine it's 100% from the tap. Looks like 7.9 perhaps for that area, tomatos like 6.5 max, 5.5 is better.

@YumYum I think this is what we would have had if you let it grow huge while simultaneously boosting up the VPD to insaine levels in the Vegas heat, same thing i did on my first batch of seedlings... its an everything deficiency gone way way too late... always on the blossom end. I've honestly learnt so much, I have zero end rot for the first time ever. My blossom ends are so perfect, that when I remove the flower, the tiny postil is still hanging off the tip of the tomato. Still a bit of septoria, but manageable so far, only 1 garbage bag of leaves for 70 plants, lol.
 
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its an everything deficiency gone way way too late...
Yes I think so too. Could be pH related as your suggesting. Also pushing them too hard with nitrogen and they seem to outgrow the minerals uptake speed so you are left with a void since some nutrients are not mobile within the plant.

I tried to see the pH in their water quality report but they don't report it. You could test it yourself with a pool pH test kit.
 
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I found it here. TA 137 ppm, pH 7.8.

TDS 576 ppm, Total Hardness 280 ppm. There is quite a bit of other things dissolved in that water besides calcium and magnesium which appear to be mostly sulfates at 205 ppm. You shouldn't need to supplement with any sulfur.
 
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I'd use sulfer, 2 cups per 5 or 10 gallon should drop it to 6.5 or 7, but confirm... problem is its too late, takes 1 month to work and once it's deficient, all that growth will always be deficient and will slow the new growth. Aluminum sulfate works fast, but less lasting. I might start fresh seedlings just in case, think there's plenty of time in Nevada, specially if your moving them in and out, yikes. But really, acidity is so freaking key at least for me, night and day results.
 

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