CrazyConure
Full Access Member
This is the damage.
Looking at all of the damage I am going to predict that this malicious culprit is a wooly bear caterpillar or numerous wooly bear caterpillars. Here's why. They are very mobile and travel a long distance. They feed mainly at night and hide very effectively. The damage shown is identical to what they do. The good news is that they will soon make a cacoon and turn into a moth. Bt is effective against them.
No new damage after spraying with BT 2 days ago, spinosad yesterday, and slightly moving its location!Looking at all of the damage I am going to predict that this malicious culprit is a wooly bear caterpillar or numerous wooly bear caterpillars. Here's why. They are very mobile and travel a long distance. They feed mainly at night and hide very effectively. The damage shown is identical to what they do. The good news is that they will soon make a cacoon and turn into a moth. Bt is effective against them.
That happens quite often with peppers. It is caused by temperature and humidity fluctuations. The plants normally outgrow it. Give it a week or so and you probably won't be able to see any damage at all. Sometimes the severely affected leaf will stay somewhat deformed. However, if when the buds open and the bloom is also deformed you probably have thrips damage. This is fairly rare thank goodness.No new damage after spraying with BT 2 days ago, spinosad yesterday, and slightly moving its location!
Thank you, Chuck!
What causes the pepper leaves to look like this? It’s an orange bell pepper. It’s shriveled and looks sick.
View attachment 107428
Thank you, Chuck.That happens quite often with peppers. It is caused by temperature and humidity fluctuations. The plants normally outgrow it. Give it a week or so and you probably won't be able to see any damage at all. Sometimes the severely affected leaf will stay somewhat deformed. However, if when the buds open and the bloom is also deformed you probably have thrips damage. This is fairly rare thank goodness.
Yes it is but I can't tell how much. The larger top roots should be seen.Thank you, Chuck.
I’m buying a mandarin tree today, and I’d like to know if they planted this tree too deep?
View attachment 107433
It is just a little too high. Add a little soil until you can just see the tops of the roots. You my have to do it a couple of times because the soil will settle a little when you water. Don't worry, time is not an issue with this.View attachment 107436
Here is the full result.
Yep, that is Blossom End Rot. It's caused by the plants inability to uptake calcium. Where I live in Texas there is a simple solution and that is to use Epsom Salt at planting. It may work there or it may not but in the 70+years I have spent in a vegetable garden if I did not use it I would not have a tomato crop, ever. In any case once the tomato shows BER it will not go away but sometimes adding Epsom Salts will stop future fruits from getting this disease. You can still eat the tomato, just cut the rotten part away but usually about half of the tomato is affected by BER. All you can do at this late date is spread about 1/2 cup of ES around the base of the plant and water it in and hope for the best.Hi Chuck,
I bought my grandfather a tomato plant several weeks ago (better bush)
The fruits are having brown bottoms. Do you know why?
View attachment 107482
I would spray weekly with spinosad. Much of that damage shown in the pictures is old, as shown by the dry brown edges of the holes. I don't know for sure what severed the leaves but it looks like what a cutworm does. Cutworms are difficult to deal with as they live under the soil and feed above the surface. The only thing I have found to be effective against them is a product called Sluggo Plus. Having said all of this, the insect/caterpillar problem isn't your main problem. Your main problem is powdery mildew as shown in pictures 2 and 3. This will soon spread to the entire plant and will severely damage the plant or kill it. Once a plant has these disease I have never seen a plant 100% cured. It is possible to maintain a plant and achieve a respectable harvest though. Mix 1 tablespoon of baking soda and 1 teaspoon of insecticidal soap into a gallon of water.The zucchini looks worse. There is more leaf damage, and now I’m seeing branches cleanly severed.
The last photo is of the full garden. It’s only affecting the zucchini.
View attachment 107660View attachment 107661View attachment 107662View attachment 107663View attachment 107664
Will do!I would spray weekly with spinosad. Much of that damage shown in the pictures is old, as shown by the dry brown edges of the holes. I don't know for sure what severed the leaves but it looks like what a cutworm does. Cutworms are difficult to deal with as they live under the soil and feed above the surface. The only thing I have found to be effective against them is a product called Sluggo Plus. Having said all of this, the insect/caterpillar problem isn't your main problem. Your main problem is powdery mildew as shown in pictures 2 and 3. This will soon spread to the entire plant and will severely damage the plant or kill it. Once a plant has these disease I have never seen a plant 100% cured. It is possible to maintain a plant and achieve a respectable harvest though. Mix 1 tablespoon of baking soda and 1 teaspoon of insecticidal soap into a gallon of water.
A 5 gallon bucket is too small for a squash plant. I would get some 10 gallon fabric containers and plant everything in them.
It's not imperative, but it would be best. Those fabric grow bags come in sets of 10 or 12 and are actually cheaper than plastic buckets. Some of my grow bags have been used for 5 years and are still good. I had thought that being sewn together would shorten their life, but I have found the opposite to be true.Will do!
Should the eggplants also go in 10 gallon containers?
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