Apple Tree Pollinating ?

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I wouldnt use that seedling as rootstock. Scions are grafted to specific root stock that has been proven to work and resist disease. Depending on your soil type pick the appropriate root stock. Most nurseries dont say so it is luck of the draw. If you want good rootstock take the suckers from an existing tree that has a grafted root stock.

There is a reason why nurseries only use specific root stock. It is proven to work.

You can still grow those seedlings. You might discover a new variety like a lot of chance seedlings that are popular today started that way. It would also be a good learning expierence and comparison if you do get the varieties you mentioned.

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I may end up putting these grocery store seeds that germinate in the ground, but we are only doing this for the Pink Lady and Granny Smith since they are 2 we like and should work in our area. So I guess I need to go to Stark Bros and buy a PL and GS to be assured to receive/produce those kind of apples.
 
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Can you professionals confirm....if I buy a pink lady and granny smith root stock from Stark Bro, they mature and pollinate each other and 2-5 years should be producing actual pink lady and granny smith apples....nothing weird or different variety. Correct ?
 
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Can you professionals confirm....if I buy a pink lady and granny smith root stock from Stark Bro, they mature and pollinate each other and 2-5 years should be producing actual pink lady and granny smith apples....nothing weird or different variety. Correct ?
Yes, if you graft a pink lady scion to the rootstock that Starks advises. Probably cheaper to just buy a pink lady sapling or tree though.
 
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They are on super sale right now at Stark. I would buy it ASAP since the bare root is still available.

Just my opinion since i dont care for the potted trees from there but I have bought a few. The Pawpaws are the only ones that worked for me.

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I am looking to buy a 4-5' bare root of each GSmith (standard size tree) and Pink Lady (dwarf) from Stark Bros.
Then no problem. Starks has done all of the grafting onto the preferred root stock for you. Much simpler this way. Are you familiar with the correct way to plant a tree?
 
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Wow Chuck, you are being a great help with me and these apple trees !! Thanks. No sir, I am all ears.

I usually dig a hole 2-3 times wider and deeper than the pot, now throw compost in the bottom and sink a 1 inch pvc pipe 3 ft long...so I can water the roots later as it gets mature. I mix some Garden Tone food in there with it, a little blood and bone meal and be sure to backfill with soft potting mix. The Japanese Red Maple I just planted this way 6 months ago is doing well and flourishing.

I did just order the 2 apple trees from StarksBros...so looking forward to getting and planting those in the back yard.
 
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Wow Chuck, you are being a great help with me and these apple trees !! Thanks. No sir, I am all ears.

I usually dig a hole 2-3 times wider and deeper than the pot, now throw compost in the bottom and sink a 1 inch pvc pipe 3 ft long...so I can water the roots later as it gets mature. I mix some Garden Tone food in there with it, a little blood and bone meal and be sure to backfill with soft potting mix. The Japanese Red Maple I just planted this way 6 months ago is doing well and flourishing.

I did just order the 2 apple trees from StarksBros...so looking forward to getting and planting those in the back yard.
You are correct about how WIDE to dig the hole. Only dig the hole as deep as the root ball. After the tree is planted the soil will settle a little leaving the tops of the big roots of the rootball exposed, thus exposing the root flare. Do not dig a round hole. Dig a hole with discernable sides. This helps the tree grow its roots outward instead of in a circular pattern. Before sticking the tree into the hole fill the hole up with water and time how long it takes for all of the water to disappear. If more than 24 hours find another place to plant the tree. DO NOT ADD ANYTHING to the soil removed from the hole to be used to backfill, no fertilizer or compost or anything. Only use what you removed while digging the hole. Only add nutrition and compost to the soil surface. After the tree is planted water it in for as long as it takes for water to stand on the surface. After the tree has been in the ground for about a month fertilize it. On a 5' sapling cover the ground with about 3 inches of mulch. Do not let the mulch rest against the trunk. Get some bricks or something and make a circle around the base of the tree to keep soil, debris and the mulch from resting against the trunk. A tree is a long term project and 6 months is not nearly a long enough period of time to judge whether a tree is planted correctly or not, it could take years. If you did not follow the planting depth and added a bunch of stuff to the backfill you will have problems down the road and end up with a tree not quite up to par. IMO the PVC is a waste of time. You do not want the roots of the tree to grow around a source of water. You want the roots to grow as far and wide as possible. When you water do not just water around the base of the tree. Water out to the drip line. ALWAYS, ALWAYS water slowly, deeply and thoroughly.
 
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It might help if you plant your tree slightly elevated from the soil surface. I do this with my sweet cherries since they dont like wet roots.

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