Raised Beds/Crop Rotate or Not

[Hdan]

Im new to this forum.
I've seen a lot of mixed issues on the subject of crop rotating.
After weeks of of searching I think I found the real issue with this.
I understand that crop rotation only applies to large scale farmers with acres of land that's to large to amend with compost which would be very costly if they did.
So they have to rotate their crops.
In a small home garden it's not necessary to rotate crops because it's amended with compost twice a year which adds nutrients back to to soil therfore crop rotation is not necessary.
So rotating crops a few feet from the last crop doesn't make a difference in a small home garden.
Would like to here other views on this subject here now that Im new here.

Dan

 

[redback]

Mostly potatoes need rotating each year for about 4 - 6 years. That isn't a problem because the rich soil left over from spuds will support peas, carrots and brassicas. Only the brassicas will need fertilizing.
The compost top dressings that you mentioned will encourage soil activity and that gets rid of nematodes and most other soil pests.
Nowadays people are shunning single crops and interplanting crops between each other to confuse pests. Corn needs to be planted in a block, so is usually a monoculture, and should be relocated if pests occur when planting in the same spot each year.
There is also a strong tendency to interplant herbs and flowers with all the vegetables both to attract pollinators and shelter beneficial predators.

 

[YumYum]

It's not all about the depletion of crop specific nutrients. It's also about avoiding disease from that type of crop. For instance brassicas can get club root. So you rotate with some other group of crop to try to avoid that.

 

[Hdan]

It's not all about the depletion of crop specific nutrients. It's also about avoiding disease from that type of crop. For instance brassicas can get club root. So you rotate with some other group of crop to try to avoid that.

Yes, I am aware that disease & pest was part of the crop rotation motive. Thanks for your advice.

 

[Hdan]

In other words what I viewed on youtube through several gardeners, moving a crop in small garden a few feet from where you last planted the pest will still be there no matter what you do.

 

[YumYum]

I don't think an insect is going to be fooled in the size of a garden, as you state. I've seen cutworms physically bounce themselves 4 or 5 inches off the ground to avoid me poking at it so they are very mobile even though you think they would basically just lumber around.

 

[Meadowlark]

...In a small home garden it's not necessary to rotate crops because it's amended with compost twice a year which adds nutrients back to to soil therfore crop rotation is not necessary.

I don't have raised beds but do use raised rows and large containers. I absolutely do rotate everything. However, I do NOT rotate principally because of diminished nutrients as I replenish/restore my soil to "No N, P, K required" status before planting anything whether in raised rows or containers without the use of artificial fertilizers.

The principal reason for rotation for me is insect and soil borne diseases control. In decades of following this practice of rotation, I never have fungal problems and almost never have insect problems.

 

[Mr_Yan]

I will largely echo Meadowlark's comment above but not fully...

I have smallish raised beds that I typically mono-crop. One bed will be peppers, one bed will be green beans, one cole crops, you get the idea. I do rotate crops around but don't have an absolute pattern of crop A follows crop B follows crop C.

I have had some trouble with insects but things like carrot fly and cabbage moths won't be overcome by moving a few feet from bed to bed as the parent pest is flying.

There is something about ordering onions, cabbage family where growing one before the other helps. But I forgot what it was or what the order should be.

 

[Hdan]

I don't have raised beds but do use raised rows and large containers. I absolutely do rotate everything. However, I do NOT rotate principally because of diminished nutrients as I replenish/restore my soil to "No N, P, K required" status before planting anything whether in raised rows or containers without the use of artificial fertilizers.

The principal reason for rotation for me is insect and soil borne diseases control. In decades of following this practice of rotation, I never have fungal problems and almost never have

I don't have raised beds but do use raised rows and large containers. I absolutely do rotate everything. However, I do NOT rotate principally because of diminished nutrients as I replenish/restore my soil to "No N, P, K required" status before planting anything whether in raised rows or containers without the use of artificial fertilizers.

The principal reason for rotation for me is insect and soil borne diseases control. In decades of following this practice of rotation, I never have fungal problems and almost never have insect problems.

I don't have enough containers or beds to rotate as I have just started couple years ago. Do you use home test kits for your NPK results? Or send samples out for results?

 

[Hdan]

I have two 10 sq. Ft. Containers one with onions, one with garlic.
This past fall is second year growing in same containers.
I have one 32 sq. Ft. Raised bed I just put in last fall, nothing planted in it yet.
Was planning on bush green beans & peas in raised bed this spring.
I have other small pots I grow lettuce in.
I'm open for suggestions.

 

[Meadowlark]

...I'm open for suggestions.

#1 suggestion never let those containers/beds go idle (fallow) e.g. the 32 sq ft bed would have benefited greatly from a cover crop all winter. Soil building and weed control at its best.

#2 suggestion follow up those 10 sq. ft containers with a legume all summer such as field peas. To build soil, first add a few inches of composted manure, plant the peas, and let the peas mature, don't harvest or only harvest few, shred and let them reseed naturally and repeat the process. For illustration see the thread:

Chop and Drop Cow Peas

This thread demonstrates how I use cow peas in a chop and drop process in my garden to organically replenish the soil to the status of “No N-P-K” required without the use of synthetic fertilizers. In summer, the peas have a maturity cycle of just over 60 days making it possible to have multiple...

www.gardening-forums.com

#3 Suggestion follow up that 32 sq ft bed with a fall /winter cover with legumes. Again add several inches of composted manure and then overseed the bed with cover such as clover, alfalfa, Austrian peas, vetch, turnips, etc. Turn it all into the soil next spring and plant whatever you want.

#4 suggestion if you are successful with #2 you can grow more onions, garlic or whatever you wish in the 10 sq. ft.

#5 and so on...be creative, never let the beds go idle, add composted manure and rotate with cover crops preferably legumes.

 

[Meadowlark]

"Do you use home test kits for your NPK results? Or send samples out for results?"

Yes, I sent out to a highly reputable laboratory for all soil test results.

 

[Hdan]

#1 suggestion never let those containers/beds go idle (fallow) e.g. the 32 sq ft bed would have benefited greatly from a cover crop all winter. Soil building and weed control at its best.

#2 suggestion follow up those 10 sq. ft containers with a legume all summer such as field peas. To build soil, first add a few inches of composted manure, plant the peas, and let the peas mature, don't harvest or only harvest few, shred and let them reseed naturally and repeat the process. For illustration see the thread:

Chop and Drop Cow Peas

This thread demonstrates how I use cow peas in a chop and drop process in my garden to organically replenish the soil to the status of “No N-P-K” required without the use of synthetic fertilizers. In summer, the peas have a maturity cycle of just over 60 days making it possible to have multiple...

www.gardening-forums.com

#3 Suggestion follow up that 32 sq ft bed with a fall /winter cover with legumes. Again add several inches of composted manure and then overseed the bed with cover such as clover, alfalfa, Austrian peas, vetch, turnips, etc. Turn it all into the soil next spring and plant whatever you want.

#4 suggestion if you are successful with #2 you can grow more onions, garlic or whatever you wish in the 10 sq. ft.

#5 and so on...be creative, never let the beds go idle, add composted manure and rotate with cover crops preferably legumes.

"Do you use home test kits for your NPK results? Or send samples out for results?"

Yes, I sent out to a highly reputable laboratory for all soil test results.

"Do you use home test kits for your NPK results? Or send samples out for results?"

Yes, I sent out to a highly reputable laboratory for all soil test results.

Ok, guess if I have 4 or 5 containers I would have to take soil samples of each one separately. Im assuming you do samples every year. At University of Delaware that is $18 each sample.
Or is there other places you could recommend.

 

[Hdan]

#1 suggestion never let those containers/beds go idle (fallow) e.g. the 32 sq ft bed would have benefited greatly from a cover crop all winter. Soil building and weed control at its best.

#2 suggestion follow up those 10 sq. ft containers with a legume all summer such as field peas. To build soil, first add a few inches of composted manure, plant the peas, and let the peas mature, don't harvest or only harvest few, shred and let them reseed naturally and repeat the process. For illustration see the thread:

Chop and Drop Cow Peas

This thread demonstrates how I use cow peas in a chop and drop process in my garden to organically replenish the soil to the status of “No N-P-K” required without the use of synthetic fertilizers. In summer, the peas have a maturity cycle of just over 60 days making it possible to have multiple...

www.gardening-forums.com

#3 Suggestion follow up that 32 sq ft bed with a fall /winter cover with legumes. Again add several inches of composted manure and then overseed the bed with cover such as clover, alfalfa, Austrian peas, vetch, turnips, etc. Turn it all into the soil next spring and plant whatever you want.

#4 suggestion if you are successful with #2 you can grow more onions, garlic or whatever you wish in the 10 sq. ft.

#5 and so on...be creative, never let the beds go idle, add composted manure and rotate with cover crops preferably legumes.

My 32 sq. ft. bed I put in last Sept. is setting with 60% compost 40% top soil covered with lots of leaves with synthetic net to hold the leaves in. I will use your advice on cover crops this next fall.
My last planting of green beans & peas I will leave in to seed & chop and turn into the soil.
I think thats what you're saying.
When I harvest my onions & garlic in the 10 sq. ft. beds in May or June I will do same thing there.

 

[Meadowlark]

Ok, guess if I have 4 or 5 containers I would have to take soil samples of each one separately. Im assuming you do samples every year. At University of Delaware that is $18 each sample.
Or is there other places you could recommend.

No, not every year and not every location. From experience I know what I need to do to achieve "No N, P, K required" status.

I now only test in special situations such as some experiment I'm running or other special situation.

To get a baseline, in your case, I would probably mix samples from the containers and send that in for one test and mix samples from the 32 sq. ft bed and send that in as the second test sample. That should give you a good baseline starting point.