New shape for an apple tree

[Marius]

Hi,

I would like to ask your opinion on the pruning of an apple tree as I am new to this.

I have this tree in our new garden. I don't know the variety of this apple tree. It is probably 15 years old. The previous owners trained it with many branches starting from a low level. I really don't like this shape. I would like to see more of its trunk. So I was thinking of cutting, now in January, the first branches close to the ground. Maybe the tree needs some other branches cut in the canopy but I would probably do this in another winter.

Would it be safe for the tree to cut so many branches at once? As you can see on the photo, the first branches I would like to cut start at about 20-30cm from the ground. There are 3 branches coming from one spot and a 4th one from the opposite side. So many branches in one spot also made the trunk thicker in this area. The bark is also a bit damaged from a product they used to stop ants going up.

If I do this, should I also continue with pruning some of the thin branches or is it too much?

Marius

 

[DirtMechanic]

So rather than go at the main trunk meristem or bark it is safer to cut out on the branch a ways at least 6 inches. There are a variety of wound sealants but just trimming out and in a plane that sheds water rather than collects it should be sufficient. This allow the tree to deal with the dead limb in it own way at the base of the branch. It will close off the vascular system and reintegrate the pathways buck up the trunk over the next few years.

 

[Marius]

So rather than go at the main trunk meristem or bark it is safer to cut out on the branch a ways at least 6 inches. There are a variety of wound sealants but just trimming out and in a plane that sheds water rather than collects it should be sufficient. This allow the tree to deal with the dead limb in it own way at the base of the branch. It will close off the vascular system and reintegrate the pathways buck up the trunk over the next few years.

Thank you for the suggestion. I will try this. I guess the branch rests will slowly die in a few years and they can be cut off at some point.

 

[Marck]

The part of a tree limb that should remain is called the collar. It does not extend very far up the limb.
An illustration will save many words here.

 

[Oliver Buckle]

The top does look crowded, I was given as standard advice "A pigeon should be able to fy through it easily"

 

[Marius]

The part of a tree limb that should remain is called the collar. It does not extend very far up the limb.
An illustration will save many words here.

Thanks Marck; this is helpfull to set the cuts.

 

[Marius]

The top does look crowded, I was given as standard advice "A pigeon should be able to fy through it easily"

I'll focus this year on removing the lower branches. Next year I'll open the top more. People working on bonsais also say this. Birds should be able to fly between branches with ease.

 

[Marius]

I worked on the apple tree and removed 4 major limbs at the level close to the ground. I cleared a bit some other branches and decided on one leader. The lower limbs were quite thick and I had to use the saw on them.

The tree still needs a lot of reshaping but I decided to stop and see how new branches come this year. I have some empty spaces I would like to fill with new branches and according to the evolution I'll select some to remove next year maybe.

I had a lot of trouble deciding what to keep on the upper limbs. I think the tree was trained in a compact form to probably block the view or some other reason. All branches going outwards were cut and a lot going into the crown and up were left. So the lower limbs made the upper ones go straight up as they blocked lateral space. As I removed the lower limbs I was left with branches going almost straight up. I wanted to cut mor to open the crown but I was afraid to remove too much.

So here it is for this year. I'll have to work in the future on this basis and reshape with new growth.

 

[Marck]

You did a good job with that. The tree has a nice symmetrical form.
The tree will be tall, so ladders and long-handled harvesting baskets may be needed for harvest, but that is the way to get a bumper crop.

 

[Oliver Buckle]

It certainly looks a lot better. Now you have a year to decide which direction you want to progress, there is no one right way to prune a tree, nor even one wrong way

 

[Marius]

I'll be watching how it develops and work on it in the future. I'll cut the leader from time to time to avoid that it gets too high. Yes, a ladder for harvesting and maintenance will certainly be a must. I hope it will develop more lateral branching in the lower area where most of the fruit will be in reach and hope for the birds to pick on only the upper fruits . I'll also control the growth to avoid having too much shadow as the garden is small.

 

[Oliver Buckle]

You will also see what sort of fruit it bears. I don't know quite why people so often plant rubbish varieties, maybe because they think they want 'Something a bit different'. Our last garden had something that was a bit like a Grenadier, but not as good. I kept it because it was a mature tree, had a good shape, and looked lovely in Spring when it was in bloom, but if something like your tree turned out other than excellent I would cut my losses, and the tree, and start again. It is really not worth growing your own apples when they are not as good as the ones you get in the shop, they are not the dearest fruit. It is a pain when you have put planning and work into it, but I should at least prepare yourself for the worst, then if it is good it will seem even better

 

[Marck]

If you don't like the fruit, don't scrap the tree, just change the fruit!
Bud grafting can give you a dozen or more of your favourite varieties, and all off the same tree.

 

[Marius]

@Marck , thanks for the suggestion. The fruits were quite sweet once fully ripe. There are some varieties which have a pleasant texture and taste even when not fully ripe. It is not the case for this one. I'll have to look into the identification of the variety when fruit appear.
Maybe grafting could also be a good idea to add a branch in an empty spot instead of waiting for it to be filled by ramification.