What Can I Add?

big rockpile

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I have a 20X20 Vegetable Garden. Run a Soil Test and it is showing ok for Vegetables.

My problem is it is heavy with Clay been putting Peat Moss on it but still not there.

What can I amend the soil to lose it up?

big rockpile
 

Meadowlark

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Compost, compost, compost...animal manure, plant, it all helps. Then put in a thick cover crop this fall/winter and turn it under in the spring. You will be amazed at the results.
 

big rockpile

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Well right Compost Bin is empty.

Cover Crop I could do but I can't turn it.

Been just running Tiller over it couple times.

Was thinking of putting plastic over it to kill.

big rockpile
 

Meadowlark

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IMO, plastic or so called solarization is the absolute worst thing one can do to garden soil. I would never ever do it to my garden soil. It kills everything, indiscriminately. Then weeds come back with a vengeance.

Fill that compost bin and keep it full. Turn it when you can. Add more and more. Look for sources of organic matter...it is all around you and usually free for the asking/taking.

Cover crops are great when you mow them and let the clippings go back into the soil. Then if ready, you can run the tiller over it or let it grow back again to mow again. Repeat, repeat, repeat. Mow it short when you know you are ready to till otherwise leave some to grow back Clovers, alfalfa, vetch, cereal grains, etc. are all great.

You could be growing peas right now and building that soil.... right now, today. When ready/mature mow them down with a lawn mower (don't harvest) and let them reseed to grow again and add tons of organic matter to your soil. I have done as many as 4 complete cycles of mow, let reseed, let regrow, mow, let reseed, let regrow, etc. . before frost without ever adding a single seed after the original planting...4 times...adding huge amounts of FREE organic matter to your soil each time. See below

Till them in when you want, Cow peas aka field peas such as blackeye, purple hull, crowder, etc. etc. They are all great soil builders, especially when you don't pick them but mow them and till them in or let them reseed. Make it a practice to never ever leave your garden soil without something growing in it...either cover or produce.

Lime if you need ph adjustment but otherwise not. Peat moss is a waste of time and money. Get aggressive and get organic materials in there and keep adding them. Investing in your soil has great ROI, return on investment. It is a continuous process ever increasing the value of your soil.

Here is an example of mowed/shredded peas reseeding and adding valuable nutrient to your soil.
peas shredded 2019.JPG



Here is what they look like after regrowing:


cover peas 2019.JPG


Anyone can do this...large plot or small. It doesn't require hardly any money just a few cents for seed but does require some time and effort. The rewards are soil tests which say, "No N-P-K required" and vegetables which are out of this world in taste and nutrition.
 

Meadowlark

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I have a 20X20 Vegetable Garden.
big rockpile

You can start small, take half of it say, and put it in soil builder immediately or even a smaller piece, whatever you do GET STARTED NOW for a better garden and superior soil. Don't allow weed seed to take over. Keep something growing 24/7/365
 

big rockpile

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Just out pulling weeds 3 of the worst. Morning Glory, Rag Weed and Cheat.

It's all planted. I put Wheat Straw down for mulch and it is sprouting.

big rockpile
 

DirtMechanic

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I have a 20X20 Vegetable Garden. Run a Soil Test and it is showing ok for Vegetables.

My problem is it is heavy with Clay been putting Peat Moss on it but still not there.

What can I amend the soil to lose it up?

big rockpile
Pine bark mulch or soil conditioner has a chemical that resisisisisists degradation whereas hardwood mulch does not. This leads to pine bark used as both a potting medium when mixed with a 1:5 compost or your clay. Your problem is figuring the weight of 1728 cubic inches of your soil and the volume of pine bark that is equal to 20 percent of that soil weight. Well that is not really true because getting it in is work too though I would start by laying it on top. But I am a particularly lazy gardener.
 

MiniOrchardDude

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I'm with Headfullofbees. Gypsum will help losen the clay soil. Should be no more than $20 for 40lbs.

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