Tomato Ripeness

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I have a question about tomato ripeness, it's not a question of how to prevent, rather I'm just curious....

Occasionally, I get a tomato that is ripening and I pull it and as it ripens there's a spot where it just doesn't seem like it's going to ripen, or at least taking a much longer time, compared to the rest of the tomato. I just had this happen again, yesterday as I was picking thru my tomatoes separating those that are ripe and ready for dehydrating, apart from those that need more time to ripen.

I had one tomato that was almost to the point of being over-ripe, except for a mass, that was only 10% of the entire mass of the tomato. This mass was nearly all green, with a slight hue of color indicating it was still ripening; however, I couldn't wait, because the other 90% of the tomato was on the verge of becoming over-ripe.

Like I said above, I'm not concerned in preventing this, simply because it happens so infrequently; I'm just curious if anyone else has seen this and if possibly you know the cause. I tend to think it's just a defect in the tomato.
 
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I have had it happen quite often and in the reverse too. In the reverse what has happened is a tomato fruitworm has penetrated the skin of the tomato and causes that portion to ripen early. In your case an insect has injected a bit of material into the tomato causing it to ripen later. In either case you only have to cut out the damaged portion. The rest is fine

A trivia question: How do you tell if a tomato is completely ripe?
 
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I always preferred slightly unripe tomato when I buy from market. So, it could stay fresh for few days inside refrigerator.

Everytime, I tried to grow tomatoes, it always died on me. But one grew up by its from compost, it gave 1 large and 4 small tomatoes.:)



*Edited-can't turn off auto correction, it is replacing words
 
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You folks are real close. A tomato is at its best when it reaches its full color AND when you very slightly squeeze it, it should be very very slightly soft or pliable. If it doesn't depress it will need another day or two. If when you slightly squeeze it and it is easily depressed it is over ripe.. Also, another sign of over ripeness is when the color starts to lighten up a bit. If this happens it is not at its best.
 
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Yep! And for those of us who also grow non-red tomatoes, squeezing it is the only way. This year I have Cherokee purple, Mr Stripey and some sort of German tomato that is orange and green.
 
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Yep! And for those of us who also grow non-red tomatoes, squeezing it is the only way. This year I have Cherokee purple, Mr Stripey and some sort of German tomato that is orange and green.
On those tomato varieties at the very slightest of movement when you slightly squeeze them is the prefect time to pop them into your mouth. Cherokee purple is one of my favorites but they do not have a long "shelf life". Eat them quickly.
 
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On those tomato varieties at the very slightest of movement when you slightly squeeze them is the prefect time to pop them into your mouth. Cherokee purple is one of my favorites but they do not have a long "shelf life". Eat them quickly.

Yes indeed, I've come to realize the colored and heirloom tomatoes don't store well at all. They tend to be sweeter and lower acid, maybe that's why?
 
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Yes indeed, I've come to realize the colored and heirloom tomatoes don't store well at all. They tend to be sweeter and lower acid, maybe that's why?
More than likely that is true. But, some heirlooms are the opposite. and others like Jet Star have great shelf life, even though they are low acid and have great sweetness. I guess it is one of lifes great mysteries.
 
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Yep! And for those of us who also grow non-red tomatoes, squeezing it is the only way. This year I have Cherokee purple, Mr Stripey and some sort of German tomato that is orange and green.
I too am growing "Mr Stripey," only, in the UK it's called, "Tigerella."
 
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...Everytime, I tried to grow tomatoes, it always died on me. But one grew up by its from compost, it gave 1 large and 4 small tomatoes.:)



*Edited-can't turn off auto correction, it is replacing words
They say tomatoes love full-sun conditions; however, I've found that that's not completely true, at least here in sunny Florida at 30 degrees latitude. The powerful sun kills seedlings and it can be too harsh for adult plants.

I've learned to shade the tomato seedlings or else they get baked and die. As the plant grows I allow it more and more sun, but not total sun for 8 hours per day, that's just way too much Florida sun.

Maybe that'll work for you; I'm guessing you may be even at a lower latitude than me.
 
S

saboken

D0CF3198-5BE5-47FD-99B4-61DCCCC2608C.jpeg D7322AAB-714C-41B4-949D-41B135F031A0.jpeg ABDAF793-ACED-4C93-BD5D-DA228E35BACF.jpeg I’m going to pick this Guy based on what I read it’s a Cherokee Purple and I think matured early because it was on the plant when I purchased it from the nursery, the plant has since grown over 4’ and has over 20 successful flowers! Most are now about 3/4 “ . I can squeeze it and it’s got a little give it’s not rock hard but slightly firm! I know it’s not the color of a usual CP but I really think it matured early from the shock during the transplant to the earth box
 
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Yep! And for those of us who also grow non-red tomatoes, squeezing it is the only way. This year I have Cherokee purple, Mr Stripey and some sort of German tomato that is orange and green.

Pull those Cherokee Purples early, they will split like crazy if you vine ripen

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