Tomato problem. Rotting?

[thomas.r.silverman]

In the picture attached you can see the underside of some of my tomatoes have turned brown, they look very unhealthy.

Any ideas what this could be?

They are an organic determinate variety called 'Red Cherry Large' grown in 5 gallon container. Other fruits on the same plant seem ok so far, these were the very bottom ones. Other fruits on plants near by also seem ok.

Attached is also a picture of the foliage which is yellowing and appears to have been attacked by something.

Many thanks in advance,
Thomas

 

[DirtMechanic]

You need to foliar feed calcium at this late point. Find some calcium nitrate. Read the instructions, as I will not be able to tell anybody about the density of the product they just picked up, but it would not shock me to see a recommendation for 30ml per gallon water (2 tbsp).

 

[thomas.r.silverman]

You need to foliar feed calcium at this late point. Find some calcium nitrate. Read the instructions, as I will not be able to tell anybody about the density of the product they just picked up, but it would not shock me to see a recommendation for 30ml per gallon water (2 tbsp).

I was previously told once I see fruit to switch to a phosphorous feed? I've been using Fox Farms 'Tiger Bloom' 2-8-4

 

[thomas.r.silverman]

I was previously told once I see fruit to switch to a phosphorous feed? I've been using Fox Farms 'Tiger Bloom' 2-8-4

Which also doubles up as a foliar feed*

 

[DirtMechanic]

Its a hydroponics fertilizer. In a closed loop system, there is no escape for nutrients from the system. After the initial setup and balancing, only what is consumed by plants is added back into the water, because too much creates a toxic situation. Does this make sense? Now if one pulled the drain plug, each new load of water would need a great deal more nutrients to balance or feed the plants. Can you see the difference? Because I would like to try and draw a parallel with a continous draining hydroponic failure and planting in soil which also continously drains. It is common to see hydroponic fertilzers being used where nutrient deficiencies are present. The density differences between water and the various types of soil and growing mediums means the percent saturation of fertilizer is harder to gauge. This is the hard part. How much is enough?

The easy part is that blossom end rot is a calcium deficiency and while "tiger bloom" has a high P for rooting, it is not showing me calcium being used for the cellular development of the fruit. I tried to find an ingredients list to no avail. Calcium nitrate has one of the only soluble ready to use forms of calcium and is a "quick fix". Longer term, micronutrient and magnesium sulphate are useful for hungry tomatoes. Not too much N though, as fruiting is the point once they get big. The idea of P becoming useful for flowering is really popular amongst marijuana growers. The problem is the tomatoes consuming far more other nutrients than a big fat bud, especially cell building materials like calcium.

 

[Chuck]

The plant is unable to uptake the calcium in the soil. My soil has a lot of calcium in it naturally but it cannot uptake it. If you will scatter a couple of handfuls of Epsom Salts around the base of the plant and water it in, it will stop all future tomatoes from getting Blossom End Rot. Your case is rather unusual as cherry varieties normally do not get BER. The damage on the leaves has nothing to do with BER. That is old insect damage and nothing to worry about now but if you spray with a spinosad product it will keep future damage from occurring.

 

[thomas.r.silverman]

Its a hydroponics fertilizer. In a closed loop system, there is no escape for nutrients from the system. After the initial setup and balancing, only what is consumed by plants is added back into the water, because too much creates a toxic situation. Does this make sense? Now if one pulled the drain plug, each new load of water would need a great deal more nutrients to balance or feed the plants. Can you see the difference? Because I would like to try and draw a parallel with a continous draining hydroponic failure and planting in soil which also continously drains. It is common to see hydroponic fertilzers being used where nutrient deficiencies are present. The density differences between water and the various types of soil and growing mediums means the percent saturation of fertilizer is harder to gauge. This is the hard part. How much is enough?

The easy part is that blossom end rot is a calcium deficiency and while "tiger bloom" has a high P for rooting, it is not showing me calcium being used for the cellular development of the fruit. I tried to find an ingredients list to no avail. Calcium nitrate has one of the only soluble ready to use forms of calcium and is a "quick fix". Longer term, micronutrient and magnesium sulphate are useful for hungry tomatoes. Not too much N though, as fruiting is the point once they get big. The idea of P becoming useful for flowering is really popular amongst marijuana growers. The problem is the tomatoes consuming far more other nutrients than a big fat bud, especially cell building materials like calcium.

Thanks a lot, the calcium deficiency makes a lot of sense. I've gone for a foliar feed for now so hopefully that'll sort it out!

 

[thomas.r.silverman]

The plant is unable to uptake the calcium in the soil. My soil has a lot of calcium in it naturally but it cannot uptake it. If you will scatter a couple of handfuls of Epsom Salts around the base of the plant and water it in, it will stop all future tomatoes from getting Blossom End Rot. Your case is rather unusual as cherry varieties normally do not get BER. The damage on the leaves has nothing to do with BER. That is old insect damage and nothing to worry about now but if you spray with a spinosad product it will keep future damage from occurring.

Thanks Chuck, I went for a calcium foliar feed for a supposed quick fix'. But i'll go for the epsom salts too if the problem continues after a couple of applications.

 

[Chuck]

Thanks Chuck, I went for a calcium foliar feed for a supposed quick fix'. But i'll go for the epsom salts too if the problem continues after a couple of applications.

Post back and let us know how it does.

 

[thomas.r.silverman]

Post back and let us know how it does.

BER seems to have slowed to a stop with a few foliar feeds and a more regular watering schedule.

Thanks for the advice!

 

[Chuck]

BER seems to have slowed to a stop with a few foliar feeds and a more regular watering schedule.

Thanks for the advice!

I am interested in this calcium foliar feeding. Please keep us informed of what happens.

 

[DirtMechanic]

just immediate availabilty vs the digestion via soil organisms that naturally occurs with most forms of calcium.

 

[thomas.r.silverman]

I am interested in this calcium foliar feeding. Please keep us informed of what happens.

I'm using antacid tablets crushed up in a spray bottle. Seems to be doing the trick!

 

[Chuck]

just immediate availabilty vs the digestion via soil organisms that naturally occurs with most forms of calcium.

Maybe. But how long does it last when compared to ES? And cost? Will it stop being uptaken? I'd like to know these things when comparing the two or even if they are comparable. Sometimes, depending on the soil, ES does not work.

 

[DirtMechanic]

but since es is not calcium, it is by structure an indirect support. and as usual, attention alone has a nutrient effect. I am curious too. Rolaids are not immediately available calcium in any literature I have read. Ground up reef shells still have a ways to go before a root can deal with them.