Seedling ideal root temperature

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Hey folks,
I'll be starting the majority of my seeds for this year's garden on heat pads in my garage, starting in late January (the first seedlings will be planted out mid-February). I have all of the temperatures for maximum germination rates but what I'm wondering is after they have sprouted (but before they have been hardened out) what is the ideal temperature I should keep the pads at?

I'm thinking is the warmth loving guys (tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, etc) can be kept at 65 degrees F, while the cold loving ones (broccoli, cauliflower, lettuce, etc) can just be taken off of the heating tray entirely. But I'm totally just guessing - this isn't based on any research that I've read about. There has to be an ideal rooting temperature for seedlings out there somewhere...

Below is a list of the veggies I'll be planting out - I will be staggering them between the first guys in January to the last ones in July.

(in no particular order)
Artichoke
Soybean
Beetroot
Broccoli
Brussel sprouts
Cauliflower
Eggplant
Leeks
Lettuce
Okra
Peas
Peppers
Zucchini
Tomato
Strawberry
Swiss Chard

Any advice would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks in advanced,
Matt
 
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Tbh, I don't molly-coddle my seedlings, at least not those which are eventually grown outdoors; I protect them from frost as it will kill most of them, but that's it.
A little bit of struggle makes them stronger when they do have to face the World.
 
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Having said that, it's always best to transplant seedlings in the morning, when they're turgid, and before the full heat of the day, in order to minimise water loss and transplant shock.
 
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Actually, I was worried about SUPPLYING light! The traditional time to start seedlings inside here is in February, and February for us is heavily overcast!
 
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Thanks for the advice Bees. I've always transplanted my seedlings in the afternoon after the heat of day - what would the difference in turgor pressure be, morning vs. afternoon? I water my guys 3-4 hours before transplanting. My theory is by planting out in the afternoon they'll have all night, plus the following morning before having to deal with the full heat of day.

Terri,
I start my seedlings in my garage, where there is esssentially no light, so I have a T-5 flourescent light that I hang over the three trays. My experience with this has been this is enough light to avoid stretching, at least for the 2 weeks they are inside. I'd imagine much longer than that under just that light, though, and you'd probably run into stretching issues where they start looking for more light. This is probably less light than they'd get from a bright window, though, so if you have that option I think you'd be fine.

From planting the seed to planting out in full sun I give them exactly 3 weeks (1 weekish to germinate, 1 weekish under the flourescent, and 1 week of hardening out).

Thanks,
Matt
 
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Turgid just means "full of water" here. Plants have had overnight to absorb as much water as possible.
Actually, I was worried about SUPPLYING light! The traditional time to start seedlings inside here is in February, and February for us is heavily overcast!
I use a "full spectrum lightbulb" in a "coolie" shade, lined with tinfoil to focus the light, to get them going.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/GreenLamp-equivalent-Daylight-Energy-Saving/dp/B004J4GMD2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1388265708&sr=8-4&keywords=full spectrum light bulb
 
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Wouldn't the seedlings benefit from spending the night after they are transplanted with their stomata closed, thereby no longer transpiring? Also, (and I may be wrong) but I don't believe plants absorb much water at night, because without transpiration they can't build up turgor pressure. An exception would be grasses and other plants that go through guttation.

There are, of course, plenty of ways to skin a cat - I'm just curious about your reasoning :)
 
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Wouldn't the seedlings benefit from spending the night after they are transplanted with their stomata closed, thereby no longer transpiring? Also, (and I may be wrong) but I don't believe plants absorb much water at night, because without transpiration they can't build up turgor pressure. An exception would be grasses and other plants that go through guttation.

There are, of course, plenty of ways to skin a cat - I'm just curious about your reasoning :)
In the early evening they may not be turgid.
You'd really have to water seedlings in well; doing that in the evening, when they're not transpiring is asking for trouble, damping off etc...
 
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Very possible - have you heard of the position of the moon/tides in influencing the water table? I've read that if you can plant during the right phase of the lunar cycle (not sure when that is, I'll have to go back and check) you give your plants a better chance. Never tried it but kind of a fun thought
 
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Very possible - have you heard of the position of the moon/tides in influencing the water table? I've read that if you can plant during the right phase of the lunar cycle (not sure when that is, I'll have to go back and check) you give your plants a better chance. Never tried it but kind of a fun thought
Vaguely.
Sounds a bit daft at first, but the moon does influence tides etc.
 

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