Sandy Embankment Garden in Deep Shade

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Looking for opinions and suggestions for our problem embankment.

Hello fellow gardeners. New to this forum. We recently moved from Maryland (2.5 acres) to North Georgia (1/4 acre HOA). Our new home has a fairly steep embankment with 2 large Sugar Maples on it at the top southern side. To the east is a mature oak, maple, and birch green space (not ours). To the west is our 3-story high house. So the bank gets near zero summer time direct sunlight. The bank is approximately 20' wide (tall) by 50' long, rising about 6 feet across the 20' width. It is mostly sand. In some areas, below the sand at about 15" or so deep are sandstone ledges. Many roots from the maple trees protrude on top of the soil. It has been neglected for years. The previous owners planted some ground cover junipers, a couple of hostas and some liriope at the bottom. They just covered the rest with pine straw mulch. So the conditions are dry and dark, with very little loam and stone beds underneath in spots. We have removed most of the junipers but removing the Sugar maples isn't an option. There is a stone dry bed for gutter overflow water in it too. There is a privacy fence cornering the bank to the east and south. Two photos below.

We had beautiful gardens in Maryland and want the same for this space. As it is, it's an eyesore to us. In the first year, we planted a few more Hostas. Then added a pink dogwood and a First Ghost maple along the eastern fence line. We also planted fuscia Azaleas high on the bank that will grow to about 5' and form a 15' hedge. When planting, we replaced about 50% of the sand with bagged garden soil and mulched them with pine straw. Keeping the Azaleas happy over the hot summer was a challenge. I had to water them every other day or they'd start showing signs of stress.

We are coming up on springtime and have plans to fill the area with shade loving plants: hostas, ferns, bleeding hearts, astilbe, camellia, bugbane, spigelia, more azaleas. We will eventual add more plants until completely full. Our plan is to amend the soil as we plant by putting into each hole a mix of biochar, horse manure compost, and bagged garden soil. Once we have these plants in the ground, we'll add more compost/biochar on top of remaining bare areas.

We also plan to install drip irrigation throughout using 1/2" tubing with 1 gph drippers every 9". The irrigation system will have two timed zones so we can stay within the flow rate available from our public water source.

The roots from the Sugar Maples are a big problem. There are too many to cut without damaging the trees. And one of the trees is actually our neighbor's. Our plan is to add a thin layer of garden soil over the exposed roots and plant small leaf periwinkle to cover and then continue to mulch with pine straw until the periwinkle takes over (if it will).

We appreciate your feedback and suggestions.
 

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Sheal

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Welcome gittyup. :)

Choice of plants I would think about later, concentrating on the bank for the time being.

In some areas, below the sand at about 15" or so deep are sandstone ledges.

Can you give more information on those as I'm thinking the bank may have terracing below the soil to hold it in place. If that's the case and it's in good condition, I'd be inclined to expose those to create a two or three level terrace which will help to contain the soil in the future, also ease of planting.

An internet image of what I am thinking below...

1768847675172.png



It looks to me as if the soil has shrunk and dropped away from the higher part of the bank due to lack of nutrients and water, probably taken by the trees. You say the soil is sandy, is the soil under the lawn sandy too?
 
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Welcome gittyup. :)

Choice of plants I would think about later, concentrating on the bank for the time being.



Can you give more information on those as I'm thinking the bank may have terracing below the soil to hold it in place. If that's the case and it's in good condition, I'd be inclined to expose those to create a two or three level terrace which will help to contain the soil in the future, also ease of planting.

An internet image of what I am thinking below...

View attachment 112505


It looks to me as if the soil has shrunk and dropped away from the higher part of the bank due to lack of nutrients and water, probably taken by the trees. You say the soil is sandy, is the soil under the lawn sandy too?
There is absolutely no buried terracing. Yes, the whole yard is mostly sand. We have associated grass problems too but that's a different discussion. We do not wish to terrace. It's not so steep that that is necessary. I'm sure there has been some erosion, probably mostly mulch wash down over the years. We plan to have zero bare spots during growing season. Every square foot will be planted with something. We'll use understory plants where necessary. Pine straw and wood chips will be used as mulch until the plants fill in. Pine straw stays put pretty well. Though I'm not a huge fan of how it looks. There will be at least one more row of Azaleas below the current one, and a row of camellia across the top at the fence.
 

Meadowlark

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Welcome @gittyup . Sounds like you have things going in the right direction.

Gardenias come to mind as another candidate that would blend in well in your environment.
 
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Welcome @gittyup . Sounds like you have things going in the right direction.

Gardenias come to mind as another candidate that would blend in well in your environment.
Thanks. We have one Gardenia at the top toward the house where it can get some sun. I'm not sure Gardenias will bloom enough except up there. Do you have any that bloom in deep shade? Wifey wants more Gardenias. We probably have room for one more up top.
 

Meadowlark

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Thanks. We have one Gardenia at the top toward the house where it can get some sun. I'm not sure Gardenias will bloom enough except up there. Do you have any that bloom in deep shade? Wifey wants more Gardenias. We probably have room for one more up top.
I'd say a qualified yes. We have two in full shade, and they bloom but probably not as full as they would if receiving more indirect light. To me, it's worth it cause the blooms are so fragrant and the plants so maintenance free.
 
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I'd say a qualified yes. We have two in full shade, and they bloom but probably not as full as they would if receiving more indirect light. To me, it's worth it cause the blooms are so fragrant and the plants so maintenance free.
My wife will happy to have more gardenia. We'll have to find room for a few, I guess.
 

Sheal

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As Oliver said, you have already planned what you want to do with the area. (y)

Pine straw and wood chips will be used as mulch until the plants fill in. Pine straw stays put pretty well. Though I'm not a huge fan of how it looks.

The use of these will help retain moisture although you're not keen. Have you thought about ground cover plants in between shrubs?
 
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As Olive said, you have already planned what you want to do with the area. (y)



The use of these will help retain moisture although you're not keen. Have you thought about ground cover plants in between shrubs?
Yes. There will be ground covers: periwinkle, ajuga, common primrose, ground phlox, epimedium, and anything else we can find that will grow without climbing or crowding out the flowers. I open to other suggestions please.
 
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Thanks for the inputs everyone!

More about us might help:
We are not novices at this by any means. We've been gardening for nearly 40 years with great success with just about anything we plant. We've built some amazing hardscapes too in our lifetime. Still, there is much we can learn, especially in a new geographic region. New to us are sandy soils and zone 8a climates. It's very dry here except in late winter.

What we really need help with is:
(i)How to make a sandy, dry, low light embankment best suited for flowers, shrubs, and small trees via soil amendment techniques. Need suggestions on nutrient enrichment methods and water retention.
(ii) Plant suggestions that work best in these conditions (zone 8a). Low maintenance only. No vines or fast growers.
(iii) Drip irrigation layouts and considerations knowing we have 1/2" tubing with 1 gph drippers every 9".

Nonnegotiables:
Trees have to stay.
These plants will be put in this year: Azaleas, Camellias, bleeding hearts, epimedium, cinnamon fern, Brunnera, bugbane.
Replacing the border stones has to wait until next year. We'll refrain from border plantings until the wall is replaced.
Dry riverbed has to stay. It will dressed up with larger stones next year.
 

Sheal

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Thanks for your current post and update. You're obviously experienced gardeners with 40 years under your belt. I/we often assume that new members have very little gardening knowledge (unless told otherwise) and tend to start with the basics.

Good choices and sorry, I'd forgotten you had listed some of these plants in your post earlier. :oops:

Need suggestions on nutrient enrichment methods and water retention.

I think these have already been suggested and will help with both. Horse manure if available locally, compost and leaf mould. You've mentioned straw - that could be shredded and dug in.

My favourite plant for ground cover is available in America. It thrives in dry, sandy soil and can exist growing out of walls - not liking wet conditions. Shallow rooted and spreads fairly quickly although not rampant, so is easy to control.

Chiastophyllum Oppositifolium - a little plant with a big name. :) Flowers May/June with yellow tassels up to 9 inches in height.

Chiastophyllum Oppositifolium (1).JPG


Whilst looking for the 'Chia' amongst my images I came across... Weigela 'Rubidor' below. This young shrub is against a north facing wall. Weigela's are worth considering.

Weigela 'Rubidor' (1).JPG


Weigela 'Rubidor' (3) - Copy.JPG
 
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Thanks for your current post and update. You're obviously experienced gardeners with 40 years under your belt. I/we often assume that new members have very little gardening knowledge (unless told otherwise) and tend to start with the basics.

Good choices and sorry, I'd forgotten you had listed some of these plants in your post earlier. :oops:



I think these have already been suggested and will help with both. Horse manure if available locally, compost and leaf mould. You've mentioned straw - that could be shredded and dug in.

My favourite plant for ground cover is available in America. It thrives in dry, sandy soil and can exist growing out of walls - not liking wet conditions. Shallow rooted and spreads fairly quickly although not rampant, so is easy to control.

Chiastophyllum Oppositifolium - a little plant with a big name. :) Flowers May/June with yellow tassels up to 9 inches in height.

View attachment 112513

Whilst looking for the 'Chia' amongst my images I came across... Weigela 'Rubidor' below. This young shrub is against a north facing wall. Weigela's are worth considering.

View attachment 112517

View attachment 112519
Thanks Sheal. These are good suggestions. The first (commonly called lamb's tail) I have never seen before. It might be a unique option to add to my ground covers. I've book marked it and will give it a try. On the second one, we had two weigela at our previous home. Don't remember the exact varieties. Both were grown in full sun. One was huge (6x6') and required annual pruning to keep it under control. The other was purple leaved and stayed under 2'. We loved them both. When in flower they were beautiful. The one you suggest is recommended for shade. Love the color. I'm just concerned about how big it will get. I'm going to keep it bookmarked too for consideration later, if I have the room.
 

Sheal

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Yes, the 'Chia' as I refer to it is not a common plant. I discovered it at a family run garden nursery many years ago, growing out of a stone wall. I asked the owner what is was and if he had some I could buy. He told me to wait and disappeared, on his return he had a handful of them which he'd pulled from the wall and said these are for you at no cost. :) I've had them now, it must be 20 years or more and they've not let me down.

The Weigela will grow to between 5 and 10 feet in height and spread over 10 years but is happy to be pruned if that's not an issue for you.

Another idea is hardy Fuschia's.
 

Oliver Buckle

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HG, (buried wood) is always a good option for stabilising and moisture retention, as is a fairly thick mulch of lawn mowings. A good mulch of almost any organic material helps, but mowings are usually available and free, and if you mow regularly enough that things haven't flowered and seeded it suppresses weeds well too.
 

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