Plum Tree: Red veins / leaves

[Montray Davis]

Hello, and thanks for reading!

Unfortunately, in the last week, my plum tree leaves have been turning red starting at the vein then eventually the entire leaf. .

I'm wondering if anyone can help identify the problem?

Is this a disease or deficiency ?

PS: I am not sure that it makes any difference, but, since purchasing from the nursery, I'm more than positive the sun levels have changed... I can't remember right now, but, I don't think the tree was under full sun, and now it is ... Not sure though honestly how much sun the nursery gave them.... But the location they were tells me probably not.

I've attached a photo (Santa Rosa Plum)

 

[Chuck]

Hello, and thanks for reading!

Unfortunately, in the last week, my plum tree leaves have been turning red starting at the vein then eventually the entire leaf. .

I'm wondering if anyone can help identify the problem?

Is this a disease or deficiency ?

PS: I am not sure that it makes any difference, but, since purchasing from the nursery, I'm more than positive the sun levels have changed... I can't remember right now, but, I don't think the tree was under full sun, and now it is ... Not sure though honestly how much sun the nursery gave them.... But the location they were tells me probably not.

I've attached a photo (Santa Rosa Plum)

Not sure but it looks like the roots are dying. Roots should be a whiteish color not brown.
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74133.html

 

[Montray Davis]

Not sure but it looks like the roots are dying. Roots should be a whiteish color not brown.
http://ipm.ucanr.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES/pn74133.html

This is what I was a bit afraid of .... I really hope that I can nurse this tree back to full health. Thanks for your help.

 

[MaryMary]

Just curious, but did you loosen the root ball before you planted the tree? Those roots look pretty compacted.

Worst case scenario, what kind of guarantee does the nursery give? If it should happen to die in the first year, can you return it?

 

[Montray Davis]

Just curious, but did you loosen the root ball before you planted the tree? Those roots look pretty compacted.

Worst case scenario, what kind of guarantee does the nursery give? If it should happen to die in the first year, can you return it?

I have not transplanted it at all ..... I only took it out of the container to post the photo to the forum

All of this has happened over a weeks time.

They do guarantee one year -- except I lost my receipt (silly me)... Not sure they would take it back after it's dead with no receipt .

PS: I just remembered I also added a 10-10-10 fertilizer spike the day I got it .. Could that make a difference?

 

[MaryMary]

If you think the salesperson/cashier might remember you, it might be worth a shot to try to return it. Worst thing they can do is say no. Just try to do it soon, there's less of a chance they forgot you, and it would be better to try to return it when it's sick (one week later,) than to wait a month and try to return a big stick.

If you think you're stuck with it, get it in the ground, soon! I don't know enough about trees to provide much help, but soil will help it better than a fertilizer spike. If you used one of the BIG tree spikes, then yes, in that tiny pot, it might be what's killing it!! I googled how far to place it away from the tree and got: "Install each spike 2 feet from the plant's trunk."

 

[Montray Davis]

If you think the salesperson/cashier might remember you, it might be worth a shot to try to return it. Worst thing they can do is say no. Just try to do it soon, there's less of a chance they forgot you, and it would be better to try to return it when it's sick (one week later,) than to wait a month and try to return a big stick.

If you think you're stuck with it, get it in the ground, soon! I don't know enough about trees to provide much help, but soil will help it better than a fertilizer spike. If you used one of the BIG tree spikes, then yes, in that tiny pot, it might be what's killing it!! I googled how far to place it away from the tree and got: "Install each spike 2 feet from the plant's trunk."

Holy cow! Well, yeah, my fertilizer was definitely much closer than 2 ft. Directly on top of roots might not have been the best idea smh.

Thanks for your help!!

 

[MaryMary]

Did you use a tree spike, then? One of the 6" spikes?

Thanks for your help!!

I only wish I could be of more help!! I've been reading your threads with interest, and envy. I would love to grow fruit here, but as I'm renting, I can't see investing in fruit trees when I might move before my efforts begin to bear fruit. I admire your determination to find what works in your area, and to that end, I believe @Chuck and @marlingardener are probably your best resources on this site.

As I said, I don't know much about trees, but tree or no, that plant looks root-bound to me, and should be planted soon, if you don't think you can return it. Being root-bound, in a container, in the Texas heat, it will need watered more often than if it were in the ground.

If planting trees is new to you, I'd suggest watching at least three or four videos on the "how to" part of it, just for greater understanding. (YouTube is a friend of mine. )

The only other thing I can really say on planting trees is to loosen the root ball as much as possible without damage, and try to spread them in different directions, to encourage them to reach out. They also say to not put fertilizer under the tree, because the tree will get "spoiled," and not spread roots to seek nourishment. (There's an old maple in the back yard, and 50" away, it has roots thicker than my wrist.)

I'm not sure I'd fertilize a new tree at all, even with a spike 2' from the trunk. I'd wait at least until it had gotten accustomed to its new spot, or even longer.

Hope that helps!

 

[marlingardener]

MaryMary seems to have too much confidence in my tree planting experience! However, we do have a small orchard of apple, pear and (I am not kidding) almond trees.
Good news--take the tree back to the nursery. No reputable nursery in Texas will sell a tree to be planted in August, especially one that is fully leafed out. Now you'll have time to figure out where and how to plant your plum. Here is a link of recommended varieties for our area (central Texas). http://www.klru.org/ctg/resource/drew-demlers-fruit-tree-list/

Bad news--trees are planted in the dormant stage, usually in December through February. We plant in January, and we are about 100 miles northeast of you. We do not fertilize until new growth is evident, usually in March or early April, although a lot depends on the weather. Well rotted compost is applied at the "drip line" which is the farthest point that the branches reach--and when we water, we water infrequently and very deeply which encourages deep root growth.
You may need two trees for pollination and getting fruit. Here is a site that explains pollination and compatible varieties of plums: http://www.pots2plots.com/Fruit/Plum Cultivars.htm

Fruit trees are fairly labor intensive--they require watering, spraying for insects (organic sprays are available if you want), and pruning. Start reading up on fruit trees now, and put an order in at a reputable nursery for the variety you want, for delivery in December. Place the order at a local nursery if possible. They want you to succeed and come back and spend more money!

 

[MaryMary]

MaryMary seems to have too much confidence in my tree planting experience!

No... I didn't know anything at all about your tree planting experience!!

I admire your determination to find what works in your area, and to that end, I believe @Chuck and @marlingardener are probably your best resources on this site.

All I meant was that you and Chuck are from Texas, and would have a better idea of what grows (or doesn't,) in that area than the rest of us.


(And you did have better advice than I did. For instance, I had no idea trees were planted December through February!! You just can't do that in Ohio! )

 

[Montray Davis]

Did you use a tree spike, then? One of the 6" spikes?


I only wish I could be of more help!! I've been reading your threads with interest, and envy. I would love to grow fruit here, but as I'm renting, I can't see investing in fruit trees when I might move before my efforts begin to bear fruit. I admire your determination to find what works in your area, and to that end, I believe @Chuck and @marlingardener are probably your best resources on this site.

As I said, I don't know much about trees, but tree or no, that plant looks root-bound to me, and should be planted soon, if you don't think you can return it. Being root-bound, in a container, in the Texas heat, it will need watered more often than if it were in the ground.

If planting trees is new to you, I'd suggest watching at least three or four videos on the "how to" part of it, just for greater understanding. (YouTube is a friend of mine. )

The only other thing I can really say on planting trees is to loosen the root ball as much as possible without damage, and try to spread them in different directions, to encourage them to reach out. They also say to not put fertilizer under the tree, because the tree will get "spoiled," and not spread roots to seek nourishment. (There's an old maple in the back yard, and 50" away, it has roots thicker than my wrist.)

I'm not sure I'd fertilize a new tree at all, even with a spike 2' from the trunk. I'd wait at least until it had gotten accustomed to its new spot, or even longer.

Hope that helps!

Thanks so much for the tips! You apparently know more than me, and I have learned something today, so, that's all I could ask for! Your responses are highly appreciated.

I'm extremely determined .... I want to start my own nursery at some point, so, I am learning as much as I can about what can grow here in Texas Glad you find my posts determining and not annoying, which is what I was afraid of

MaryMary seems to have too much confidence in my tree planting experience! However, we do have a small orchard of apple, pear and (I am not kidding) almond trees.
Good news--take the tree back to the nursery. No reputable nursery in Texas will sell a tree to be planted in August, especially one that is fully leafed out. Now you'll have time to figure out where and how to plant your plum. Here is a link of recommended varieties for our area (central Texas). http://www.klru.org/ctg/resource/drew-demlers-fruit-tree-list/

Bad news--trees are planted in the dormant stage, usually in December through February. We plant in January, and we are about 100 miles northeast of you. We do not fertilize until new growth is evident, usually in March or early April, although a lot depends on the weather. Well rotted compost is applied at the "drip line" which is the farthest point that the branches reach--and when we water, we water infrequently and very deeply which encourages deep root growth.
You may need two trees for pollination and getting fruit. Here is a site that explains pollination and compatible varieties of plums: http://www.pots2plots.com/Fruit/Plum Cultivars.htm

Fruit trees are fairly labor intensive--they require watering, spraying for insects (organic sprays are available if you want), and pruning. Start reading up on fruit trees now, and put an order in at a reputable nursery for the variety you want, for delivery in December. Place the order at a local nursery if possible. They want you to succeed and come back and spend more money!

Thanks for the help! Yeah, I was just super anxious and could not wait. I called the nursery and they told me that this is normal especially considering I am replanting the trees early august -- I assume he was saying precisely this, they aren't dormant, so, will be stressed. Awesome tips.

 

[marlingardener]

Montray, the first lesson a gardener (or orchardist) learns is patience. Plants know what they want and if they don't get it, they make you pay! Planting something at the wrong time sets the plant back--it loses foliage, or its roots don't develop as quickly as they should, or it can just sit there for quite a while instead of growing.
Look up the growing requirements of the fruit trees you want to plant, get ones that are adapted to your area, and plant them at the right time. We all get impatient, but jumping the gun usually doesn't work out well.

 

[Montray Davis]

Montray, the first lesson a gardener (or orchardist) learns is patience. Plants know what they want and if they don't get it, they make you pay! Planting something at the wrong time sets the plant back--it loses foliage, or its roots don't develop as quickly as they should, or it can just sit there for quite a while instead of growing.
Look up the growing requirements of the fruit trees you want to plant, get ones that are adapted to your area, and plant them at the right time. We all get impatient, but jumping the gun usually doesn't work out well.

You are totally right. So I've stopped purchasing new trees (mostly same fruit, different varieties), and will wait until the dormant period
I really appreciate all of you guys help.

 

[MaryMary]

Look up the growing requirements of the fruit trees you want

marlingardener is absolutely correct. I'd even go one step further, and advise you to take this dormancy period, and spend your time in research. Sun, soil, and water requirements. Pests and diseases. Average span of time before fruiting. Aren't plums grafted onto root stock? Maybe learn grafting...

If you want to have your own nursery someday, you'll need to know these things not just for you, but for your customers, too. If/when I ever buy a fruit tree, you can bet I am going to have a ton of questions for the people I am buying them from. And if they can't answer my questions, I might not give them my money.

Don't be like the people at the big box stores, who, when I ask them a question, hesitate, and say... "I don't know...doesn't it have a tag?" They get no respect.

 

[Montray Davis]

marlingardener is absolutely correct. I'd even go one step further, and advise you to take this dormancy period, and spend your time in research. Sun, soil, and water requirements. Pests and diseases. Average span of time before fruiting. Aren't plums grafted onto root stock? Maybe learn grafting...

If you want to have your own nursery someday, you'll need to know these things not just for you, but for your customers, too. If/when I ever buy a fruit tree, you can bet I am going to have a ton of questions for the people I am buying them from. And if they can't answer my questions, I might not give them my money.

Don't be like the people at the big box stores, who, when I ask them a question, hesitate, and say... "I don't know...doesn't it have a tag?" They get no respect.

The great thing is, I LOVE grafting! For me, it's an art !!
I have recently grafted "Satsuma Miho Mandarins", "Calamondin orange", and "Meyers Lemon" to a "Mexican Lime" tree. 6 days in, and, everything seems to be going very well... I've grafted plenty of Tomatoes and peppers in the past -- and even grafted Watermelon to Cucumber, and it was successful

Definitely, looks like I have tons to learn I hate those kinds of nurseries too. As a beginner, it really annoys me when I know more than the person I am purchasing the product from.... -_-'