Onions I Might Be Messing Up Again

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I have been starting Onion Seed because the Company said to start in the Fall so I now have hundreds started.

Was doing more reading says to start them February March time then set them out 8 weeks later kind of like Cabbage.

They are Long Day Onion Seed. Who is right?

big rockpile
 

Meadowlark

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So, how are you messing up and how fixing it @big rockpile ?

Seems like you have a great opportunity to run a little experiment to help you determine the best way to grow onions there using your greenhouse.

Compare onions from seed started in Fall, to onions started from seed in Feb. The green house seems perfect for figuring that out rather than relying on so called garden experts.

I positively know for my area, seeds started outside in Oct. produce superior onions here, but we have much milder winters than Missouri.
 
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I do both, but different varieties of onions, and I bet our winter is less hospitable than yours, plus you never know what the weather is going to do nowadays. I would at least plant some out, you never know. I reckon over winter onions are softer than ones planted in Jan, Feb and don't last so well, so I keep my main crop for then, but it is nice to get some early. I got some japanese onion sets to plant in autumn last year, they were good.
Remember, nitrogen to start them off and phosphorus later. I use manure to start them off, then dress with wood ash later.
 
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I do seed and sets. Seed is cheaper, and you don't risk them running to seed so much, sometimes sets are not that well heat treated. If sets do well they are great, doing both is a bit belt and braces.
 

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If you keep some in the greenhouse you can grow in pots and aim for big ones, this was interesting;

Are you kidding me..."250 grams wins best in show". :eek:

LOL. I routinely grow onions that exceed 1000 grams every year, year after year with zero synthetic fertilizer.

250 grams is something to brag about? considered "big ones"?? qualifies one for "expert" onion grower?

Sorry but I can't resist posting a few pictures...we measure in pounds but I'll convert to grams...

first 2.68 pounds = 1215 grams (measured on Texas certified scales used for big fish records)


large yellow onion.jpg




the largest to date 4.7 pounds =2132 grams (measured on certified U.S. Postal scales)

4 pound 1015.JPG


typical harvest many onions >> 1000 grams

onion crop 2018.JPG


>> 1000 gram onions sunning before being placed in storage

drying onions.JPG
 

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I do seed and sets. Seed is cheaper, and you don't risk them running to seed so much, sometimes sets are not that well heat treated. If sets do well they are great, doing both is a bit belt and braces.
Every location is somewhat different. Every variety is also somewhat different.

Here we have three growing options, not two: 1) direct seed, 2) transplants, and 3) sets.

The best way to determine what is best for a given variety in a given area, is to experiment with each in identical growing conditions. Takes the guess work completely out of it and eliminates the need to rely on so called "experts".

My experiments have conclusively demonstrated that for the Texas 1015 super sweet yellow onion, seeds >> transplants >> sets. Other locations and varieties may be different.
 

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If you keep some in the greenhouse you can grow in pots and aim for big ones, this was interesting;

Since this referenced grower has won several National Championships, I thought maybe a close analysis of his "secrets" would be interesting and might reveal some new beneficial techniques for growing onions...

1) First thing I noticed was this "Mid to late January is the time to start off the onion seed." This is location and variety dependent. If you followed that advice in my zone, the result would be very disappointing indeed.

2) Next, pricking out is a new term to me...not sure what it means? "The young seedlings can be pricked out using a fork when they are at the crook stage. This is just before the seed leaf straightens out. At this stage of development the young seedling will have just one central root. Prick them out into 1”/25mm plugs that are a minimum 2”/50mm deep , using Levingtons F2s compost"

3) He recommends transplanting multiple times in successively larger containers before ground planting...I counted at least three. In my experience transplanting always sets the plant back some especially depending on how it is done. Container grown bulbs are generally smaller than in ground grown bulbs and likewise transplanted bulbs are generally smaller than ground planted from seed bulbs in my experience.

4) Peeling skin back "Any with split skins should be peeled back to ground level but do not remove the skin completely until it dries out" I've never heard of this, and it would be a herculean task to perform on hundreds of plants. Has anyone else ever tried this and what is the effect?

5) "Measure the circumference of the onions daily" Not sure why this is important...perhaps for show purposes?

6) "Wash and dry the bulbs then give them a good dusting with talcum powder" Again, perhaps this is for show purposes? It is certainly not for effective storage purposes.

I did not find any technique suggested relative to leaf pruning or dirt removal around the bulb while growing...both of which I find increases bulb size significantly. The absence of both of these techniques was in itself interesting.

Perhaps there is something magic about hitting 250 grams and not exceeding that size?
 
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Pricking out is taking seedlings from a seed tray and planting them on individually. He won't be doing hundreds of them, the competition will want 4 or 5 onions as near identical as possible and within set parameters of weight and circumference, so he will grow maybe 20 and choose the best. It is a very artificial thing with not much to do with food production.
 

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...It is a very artificial thing with not much to do with food production.
Thanks for that explanation. I was having trouble with the article because I came at it from the food production view.
 

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