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[Jaredgardener185]

hi all,
So I am fixing to build a raised garden bed and planning my first garden. It's been something that I've wanted to do for a while but never got to do. Anyway so I purchased a new home and have a spot on the property that gets very little use so I was planning an 8' x 4' garden bed.

Anyway it's march and still cold out around 30 degrees here in Kentucky and while I helped in a garden a lot as a kid I've never actually planted or planned it out. Just done what I was told lol.

So with that said I'm not to sure on what to plant or when. I'd like it to go smoothly though and would like to get plants that are good for beginners and in my area I was wondering if you all could give me suggestions on what to plant and when to plant them thanks

 

[Jaredgardener185]

Also would a raised garden bed be better or should I just till the soil

 

[Beth_B]

Welcome!

I've had both raised beds and tilled in the ground ones...I think a raised bed is a better option if your native soil is poor, plus they look tidier. But if you have decent soil (and add mulch/compost every year, you should be good to go with tilling and weeding.

How much sun will this area get? Are you thinking vegetables or decorative perennials, or what? Most vegetables need at least six hours of sun per day.

A local independently owned (NOT big box) garden center will be a great resource. Those folks tend to know your local climate and soil, and will stock plants that do best in your region.

 

[Jaredgardener185]

Thanks for info
I currently do not know the composition of my soil but plan on having it tested. As for sunlight the area I have selected gets sun all day everyday, It has no shade at all. So the plants would get more than 6-8 hours of sun. I want to grow vegetables to eat. We don't really need a garden to eat but it seems fun and fresh veggies is a plus. The thing I'm trying to figure up is the cost as me and my wife have 4 kids a new house and are in college so I don't want to spend a ton of money (100 or less). But I have plenty of time. I also already own a really nice tiller that I bought last year on sale so I was hoping to till the ground instead of a raised bed as to keep from having to purchase lumber and soil. Anyway thanks for the reply that's kind of my plan. Also how do I test my soil my local garden stores say that they don't do it anymore, is it really necessary? Or could I get by on what I have

 

[Beth_B]

It would be handy but not necessary to get your soil tested. If you were in the US I'd suggest a state Master Gardener program but I don't think you have that available.

Is the soil dark, loose and crumbly? Do weeds and grass grow readily? Then you're probably fine. Adding compost and mulch will only improve your soil. I'm lucky, my house was built on recovered swamp land in the 1950s and the ground is really good.

For vegetables... grow what you enjoy eating! Tomatoes, most squash, runner beans are all easy to grow. So are herbs and greens. I've never crunched the numbers but the bottom line, I like being able to go out and pick dinner.

 

[Jaredgardener185]

Yup I am in the U.S lol. And thanks for info as for your questions the soil here is dark brown and pretty soft and yes weeds and grass grow easily I have to mow the yard 2 times a week to keep it down what is the master gardener program?

 

[Beth_B]

Oops sorry thought you were on the UK for some reason. Add your usda growing zone to your profile, it will be really helpful.

Google your state + master Gardener.

 

[marlingardener]

Try in-ground gardening and see how it goes. As previously advised, plant the vegetables you and your family like to eat and that aren't necessarily cheap (onions, potatoes for example are inexpensive and take quite a bit of garden space) at the grocery.
Please start small since you'll be able to maintain the garden and won't get overwhelmed with weeding, harvesting, and cultivating. You can always enlarge your garden next season if you want.
I hate to contradict Beth B, but in my experience here in Texas, Master Garden programs are a waste of time and money. We taught some Master classes on native plants, water harvesting, and natural pest control, and the curriculum seemed to be an overview of a little of everything and nothing of substance. You might be better served by getting a book about vegetable gardening. Also, feel free to ask questions here--lots of dirty hands experience among the members, which is invaluable!

 

[Jaredgardener185]

Hey guys so I have another question for you the land I'm working on stays pretty wet and doesn't really dry out to much like today I went to the spot and i can make little balls of dirt and they don't break apart to much. I was going to remove the sod and till the plot but was wondering if you guys thought it would be to wet to till it up

 

[marlingardener]

You're on the right track--if a handful of dirt doesn't fall apart when squeezed, don't till. If you till or plow wet soil you end up with clods that won't break apart and you'll have a mess.
If your soil holds moisture, add all the organic matter you can (old straw, grass clippings, compost, rotted hay) to loosen it up. You'll probably have to keep adding organic matter for a few years, but the effort is worth it!

 

[Jaredgardener185]

Thanks for the input lol. Yeah the soil stays pretty moist. How would I go about adding the organic matter. I got the first 2 inches of grass off the top. Just waiting to till. So here's my question should I pile organic matter on top and then till or till fist and add a layer of organic matter

 

[Beth_B]

Till.
Then plant.
Then add a heavy layer of mulch.
Repeat annually. Mulch is your best garden friend!
I also dig in a thin layer of compost every year.

 

[Jaredgardener185]

Thanks again for reply. I understand that I probably sound very dumb but I'll ask anyway as I want to do it right. So when I mulch do I add regular landscape mulch and do I spread it over the entire garden. I wonder because if mulch inhibits the growth of weeds how does it not harm the plants.

By the way I went to my local gardening shop and found some: sweet corn, cantaloupe, watermelon, peas, and beans. All said they could be planted between April and June or July. Is that a good start and also do I need to do anything to prepare the seeds

 

[Beth_B]

You don't sound at all dumb. As to when you can plant, your USDA zone map is your friend.

http://planthardiness.ars.usda.gov/PHZMWeb/

Mulch won't harm existing plants, it just inhibits new ones from getting started. Plus organic mulch (straw, wood chips) will break down and improve the soil over time. What I do, till and add some compost to the garden area. Pull whatever weeds I can. Plant the babies. Then add a liberal amount of mulch all around them. That also helps conserve water in the soil, and also keeps a steadier soil temp.

I don't often start anything from seed but I like the little peat pots that can be planted directly into the ground. Put two seeds in each. They need warmth, not light, to germinate but once they sprout they will need plenty of light. As they start growing, assuming both seeds germinate, snip off the smaller of the two.

On warm days you can start putting them outside; filtered sunlight at first so not to shock the babies. This is called "hardening off"; makes them tougher and less likely to get transplant shock when you put them in the ground. Also a little natural air movement is good, especially for tomatoes. People who start them off inside sometimes use fans for a while each day.

 

[MaryMary]

Since you are in Kentucky, I'd recommend straw as mulch for your garden. It will decompose quicker, and it will make for nicer soil when you till it in next year. Also, this fall when you rake leaves, dump about 3-4" of them over your garden area, and till them in next year, too.

I see @Beth_B has ninja'd me to the hardiness zone link, so once you've found your zone, you can enter it in your user profile page (here) If you add your state, it gives more ideas what pests/diseases you may have to deal with, which will help in future posting.