I was just curious about how many tomatoes do you harvest a season? I don't get to plant tomatoes until the middle or end of April and can harvest sometimes through August and I can get over 2,000 tomatoes out of 6 plants. How many do you harvest?
How many tomatoes do you get a season?
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I didn't plant any this year but I usually plant about 4 of the sweet small cherry toms and only 2 of the early girls or pik reds or big boys. I sure don't get 2000 of them tho. Maybe 10 -20 on the big ones and on the little ones I get tons.............too many to count!
I don't get anywhere near that many. I planted 4 different plants this year, usually have 6, but changed some things up and went with more peppers.
Speaking of tomatoes, it seems mine like to crack just as they are turing ripe. I know this is from uneven water, but I can't figure out how to keep them watered without them cracking. Would love some words of wisdom.
It can be caused by over watering. You should water consistently the same amt of water at the same time of each day. Also if the fruit is getting too much sun on it they can crack. Some people take the leaves off the plant and if they take too many it leaves the plant to sunburn and split.
Here's something I found on line said more clearly than I can say:
Causes of cracking
1. Alterations in the growth rate. Plants have periods where they might have very fast growth followed by slow growth and then fast again. These changes can cause fruit nearing maturation to crack. If the cells have "hardened" during the last slow growth then in the next fast growth period they may not be able to stretch enough and the epidermis cracks.
2. Fast growth. Some varieties have periods of very fast fruit growth with high temperatures and moisture levels.
3. Fruit temperature fluctuations and leaf removal. Wide fluctuations in temperature can also induce cracking. This is true especially when plants have been de-leafed too early leaving fruit without protection. The exposed fruit heats up dramatically in the sun. At night it cools relatively quickly and the differential is bigger than it would have been had the leaves covered the fruit. The expansion and contraction of the epidermis and its cells can result in cracking.
4. Succulent plants. Succulent plants that are high in nitrogen and low in potassium are more susceptible to cracking.
5. Rain and irrigation. Rain and excess irrigation will often cause cracking and if the fruit lacks leaf cover then the effect is even more dramatic. Tomato crops that do not receive water at regular intervals but rather receive it periodically at large intervals are likely to have cracking. This problem is related to the Conductivity Factor (CF) of the soil solution.
Here's something I found on line said more clearly than I can say:
Causes of cracking
1. Alterations in the growth rate. Plants have periods where they might have very fast growth followed by slow growth and then fast again. These changes can cause fruit nearing maturation to crack. If the cells have "hardened" during the last slow growth then in the next fast growth period they may not be able to stretch enough and the epidermis cracks.
2. Fast growth. Some varieties have periods of very fast fruit growth with high temperatures and moisture levels.
3. Fruit temperature fluctuations and leaf removal. Wide fluctuations in temperature can also induce cracking. This is true especially when plants have been de-leafed too early leaving fruit without protection. The exposed fruit heats up dramatically in the sun. At night it cools relatively quickly and the differential is bigger than it would have been had the leaves covered the fruit. The expansion and contraction of the epidermis and its cells can result in cracking.
4. Succulent plants. Succulent plants that are high in nitrogen and low in potassium are more susceptible to cracking.
5. Rain and irrigation. Rain and excess irrigation will often cause cracking and if the fruit lacks leaf cover then the effect is even more dramatic. Tomato crops that do not receive water at regular intervals but rather receive it periodically at large intervals are likely to have cracking. This problem is related to the Conductivity Factor (CF) of the soil solution.
I wonder if it is the temperature change, we get really hot, sometimes up to 100 but then we always cool off pretty good at night, at least to 60 on the warm nights. Really not much I can do about that. I don't remove many leaves, I am going to mulch deeply this year that should keep the moisture more constant. We are in the desert so we get really dry pretty fast. I really want enough to can this year, have not had the best of luck. I am going to try some new things this year, hope something helps. I always heard not to over feed tomatoes, maybe I have not fed enough, so more bunny products will be added....wish me luck.
I love summer!
I love summer!
You get real hot and we don't get enough. I usually grow mine in my green house but got lazy this year and didn't start any seeds. DH retired and we are supposed to be away from here camping and seeing the sights but so far we are still sitting here waiting for the weather to cooperate. Hope you get lots of yummy toms to enjoy
I will get enough to enjoy, just hoping for enough to can. We really have a good growing season. Last year we had onions bigger than a soft ball by far. Corn you would not believe, and melons all sorts, winter squash, all the good stuff. We have cold winters with snow and wind, yuck..... its all good. Thanks for the help.
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We allow for a quarter of our poly-tunnel each year which is around 24 plants. We like to give a little more space between plants for ventilation when they get bigger and due to out climate here.
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Last year I planted 4 baby cherry tomato plants and 4 big tomato plants. I'm bound to say we got well over 2,000 tomatoes combined from all plants. I donated quite a bit because they'd went bad before my family would have eaten them.
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To be honest, I've never tried to count my tomatoes. Last year, I had 10 plants, so I think that they produced around 200 fruits, or maybe a little more. I ate them really fast
I'd be more than happy if I could harvest 2,000 tomatoes!
I'd be more than happy if I could harvest 2,000 tomatoes!
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This year I have planted 91 tomato plants of 8 or 10 varieties. On an average year I usually get between 16 lbs and 20 lbs per plant. On a really good year 30+lbs but that is rare. 2000 Early Girl tomatos on 6 plants is 333 tomatoes per plant and at 6 oz. per tomato equals 125lbs per plant. I am doing something terribly wrong.
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I usually plant two small cherry tomato plants. I have never counted exactly how many tomatoes I get from them, but I think it is probably around 400/month. They grow so fast and are ripe almost immediately. Perfect to throw into salads. Some summers I don't have as much luck because I grow these outdoors at my Mom's house and sometimes little visitors come and munch on the tomatoes.
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Mulch them heavily to prevent them from drying out