Hello im doing a quick survey for a composter im designing

[Mr-Gardener]

what size would you want it to be
what colour would you want it to be

 

[Anniekay]

50 gallon and green

 

[smitty55]

Normal recommendations for a compost pile big enough to promote good heating is a minimum of 1 cubic yard. A darker colour will also help absorb more heat from the sun.

 

[Anniekay]

Normal recommendations for a compost pile big enough to promote good heating is a minimum of 1 cubic yard. A darker colour will also help absorb more heat from the sun.

Dark colors for those who get very little heat and sunshine, light colors for those who live in or nearer the equator where the heat and sun are so strong the microorganisms would be totally fried in a black composter.

 

[MiTmite9]

what size would you want it to be
what colour would you want it to be

120 gallon. Blue or dark brown.
Most important thing is easy access for loading in compostables and then easy access for retrieving the finished compost.
Good luck with your project.

 

[smitty55]

I see folks going by gallon size. Just for reference a cubic yd is 168 gallons. My compost piles are both approx 1.3 cubic yds and when constructing a new pile I can generally get it up to 150° within 4-5 days

 

[Oliver Buckle]

Black for me, for the warmth, but Annie's point about that frying things in a warm climate is a good one. The problem I notice with compost bins is that the lid sticks a bit, fine when it's full, stops it blowing off, a pain when it's empty, it moves the whole bin taking it off when you have stuff to put in in the other hand and can't hold it down.
PS I never ever use the hatch at the bottom to take stuff out, just wait 'til the whole bin has rotted down, because you always get partly rotten stuff as well if you do.

 

[smitty55]

One more point, a solid bin or structure is not needed at all. Some of the best working designs use wire mesh as the access to all that extra air makes a big difference in promoting the growth and multiplication of all those aerobic bacteria that do the bulk of the work. In my case when I moved out here to the country I just used an existing rail fence at the back of the property for one side and did the other two sides with some free T posts and page wire fencing so my cost was zero. In this pic there's another pile to the left.

 

[Oliver Buckle]

Agreed, I only use a container for my kitchen waste and stand it on aviary wire so rodents can't get to it. The one I have for all the general garden waste is made of staves laid along two sides, and then at right angles along the other two so I can build upwards as I need it. It leaves about a four inch gap between each stave that way. They are about 4/5 ft., from a leylandii that got away and grew into a tree at the end of the hedge. I cut it down and split it, and it doesn't rot.

 

[Robphilip]

what size would you want it to be
what colour would you want it to be

Hi Mr-Gardener, for size, I’d prefer something compact but large enough for a family’s weekly composting needs. As for color, a neutral shade like dark green or brown would blend well in the garden. Hope this helps!

 

[Robphilip]

Black for me, for the warmth, but Annie's point about that frying things in a warm climate is a good one. The problem I notice with compost bins is that the lid sticks a bit, fine when it's full, stops it blowing off, a pain when it's empty, it moves the whole bin taking it off when you have stuff to put in in the other hand and can't hold it down.
PS I never ever use the hatch at the bottom to take stuff out, just wait 'til the whole bin has rotted down, because you always get partly rotten stuff as well if you do.

Great points! Black bins are great for warmth, but the lid issue is definitely a hassle—especially when juggling stuff. I agree on skipping the hatch; waiting for the whole bin to rot down saves effort and ensures better compost consistency.

 

[Oliver Buckle]

I agree on skipping the hatch; waiting for the whole bin to rot down saves effort and ensures better compost consistency.

It is also the weak point in the bin, the wide based cylinder is a really strong shape. Because that is the point it has been weakened it tends to distort, and then the door doesn't fit properly and flies and rodents start seeking access.
My ideal compost bin would be smooth, cylindrical, tapering to the lid and with a snap on base of about 3/4 inch mesh in heavy duty, galvanised or enamelled, wire on a solid ring that the whole thing stood on. It would keep rats out, and provide the extra weight to hold it down and prevent the lid issue. Though not heavy itself, it would catch the weight of the initial deposits of compost. The light plastic bin on its own will still move and lift with the lid until the bin is about a quarter full, that tends to let a bit fall under the edge; flies etc.
Simple, strong, secure.