H K style containers.

[Oliver Buckle]

There are a few of us who do it, putting a layer of wood in the bottom of our containers, and I am always wondering what is the most favourable way of doing it? Mostly I lay larger pieces across the bottom and fill in with smaller ones, there seem to be advantages and disadvantages to both types and mixing them is a happy compromise. I have tried laying short blocks so the grain ran vertically instead of horizontally, but didn't see any advantage.
I am gradually getting more wood that has been well used previously, different timbers vary in their decomposition rate, and effectiveness. Hornbeam is good, Leylandi is awful, good for stakes, posts, edges, stuff like that, doesn't rot and even slugs don't like it, but keep it out of your growing space.
Some things will be in containers long term, others, like tomatoes, for a season, and will do well for being emptied and rebuilt for the next crop. Partly what is about determines how to build, but I have built layered 4" twigs, 2" leaves, topped with a couple of inches of manure. Banged down that will go down to six inces in the bottom and I filled with compost and planted my tomatoe. It did very well, but it wouldn't do for a beloved perenial, they are just bits of twig in black earth when I empty them after a year.
Anyway, I would be fascinated to hear your views and experiences on the subject. Before I get called out I call it 'HK style'. The original involves a huge pile of timber covered in the dirt excavated from the trench it is based in, not really the same as a few inches of ,wood in the bottom of a bucket, but you understand I am sure.

 

[Meadowlark]

I did my first HK container experiments in Spring 2022 and posted results here. Been using them and adding more ever since. I suspect more than a "few" here use them also.

I haven't done anything to the bottom layers of those original HK containers and based on one that I accidently destroyed there is no need to do so. The wood is decaying nicely and slowly. I replenish the top layer (about 7 inches) of soil every year changing out with garden soil which is "No N, P, K required". Some of them I just replenish in place using my gardening techniques.

Unlike the objections of some here (mainly one) on my original experiments, I have found the HK containers highly useful and significant value added to my gardening. The negative predictions of nitrogen sequestration, nutrient imbalances, poor drainage, poor water absorption, and high maintenance all proved to be false in my case.

Their production of leafy veggies and brassicas is outstanding and usually better than the yields in garden soil. Some things don't work as well and just as in all gardening finding out what works and what does not in your environment is critical.

I find them especially wonderful for growing plants which need to be confined due to tendencies of invasiveness. I have one dedicated to horse radish...fantastic producer. Another three HK containers dedicated permanently to asparagus. It stops the spread of asparagus while providing great production. Another "spreader" Sunchokes is in dedicated HK container. Four HK containers dedicated to blueberry bushes where I can accurately control the ph which is critical for growing them. A fig tree in another HK container and Osage Orange trees in two other HK containers.

I find the HK containers especially wonderful for experimental veggies. I love to experiment and have another 7 or 8 HK containers in various experiments on new varieties.

Another unique application as far as I know is HK containers to grow carnivorous plants in bogs created in the HK containers. Works absolutely great. Instead of compost and garden soil I use peat moss.

I also converted/repurposed a micro pond into a spectacular flower bed built on HK methods.

I really need to build some more HK containers for my regular veggies as many of mine are tied up now for specialty items. That is on my to do list for this winter.

 

[nao57]

I'm not familiar with what you mean by an 'H K' container? Do you just mean growing in containers?

IF so... I've done container experiments in the past. It can work to do containers but containers are more vulnerable to dehydration. I prefer to do the wood layering on top instead of the bottom, to help for heat insulation. And in the form of wood chips. But I've used whatever is available.

I don't do containers much because I'm in a low humidity arid climate. So it just ends up being harder to keep the stuff alive in containers. I have done it successfully for several types of production vegetable plants before though. But for places with a good climate and higher humidity container gardening should work there.

*Any time you raise something out of the ground to grow in, there's more dehydration risk.* You can factor in how to combat that with your watering strategy.

 

[Meadowlark]

I'm not familiar with what you mean by an 'H K' container? Do you just mean growing in containers?

No, it is a modified version of the ancient Hügelkultur(HK) gardening practiced centuries ago in European mainly German cultures. In my case, the container is made of old cattle protein tubs about 30 gallons in size.

What I mean by HK container gardening:

The container is drilled for drainage holes, the inside bottom lined with old, decayed, rotting wood, then a good layer of composted leaves/grasses added next filling in all the cracks in the wood layer and then some, then a layer of my own well composted cow manure, and then the top layer of my garden soil.

I have found it helps things considerably to thoroughly soak the container contents saturating the layers especially the decaying wood before planting. I failed to do this in my initial experience and found I couldn't keep up with the water needs of the plants. This way it is really easy. That old wood holds water for a long long time.

In my climate, it is super effective, easy, and on certain plants better than in ground. As an example, I long ago gave up on growing leaf lettuce in my climate in the garden. In the HK container, however, it flourishes.

The portability factor is a huge plus and enables the possibility of growing almost any plant on Earth..

 

[Oliver Buckle]

Mine are smaller, there is a big store that has made a thing of £1 orange buckets for years. As you can imagine the quality has gone downhill to keep the price constant, but as plant containers they don't get a lot of rough use. I think they are fourteen litres, a bit small. OK for a single tomato, and carrots are good in them, I use larger containers for aubergines (eggplant) and courgette (zuchini).

 

[dirty hands]

I bought the last 7 21 gallon tubs on sale for $12 each at rural king. The new ones are over $60 now.

I did throw some wood and mulched leaves in the bottom but not really HK method. Just mixed them in with dirt from around the yard with store bought compost and top soil on top.

Peppers and tomatoes grew good in them.

 

[Meadowlark]

...Peppers and tomatoes grew good in them.

Yes, in my tests, peppers produced just as well in HK containers as in ground including bells and jalapenos...tomatoes (indeterminate) not as well running about 20 to 25% less production in HK containers compared to in ground...but much easier to manage when frosts approach.

 

[Oliver Buckle]

I have been gradually taking out tomatoes, taking a bit out of the container and mixing it with other stuff, then replacing and planting them with carrots. I am pulling carrots from the first ones I did, wondering how many I need to make it a continuous supply.
I get more success with tomatoes in containers than the ground, but our climate means I am only allowing three to four inflorecences and then pinching out the top. Peppers and chilli do better in the ground in my small greenhouse, but I think that's because the containers are a bit small.