Do tomato plants need THIS much watering?

[taturrria]

I understand that when gardening in pots more water is needed. I live in zone 9 (Florida), it’s definitely hot. My tomato plants seem to need watering every 2-3 days. I do like that they let me know by looking droopy and I know they’re thirsty because they perk back up after about 30 minutes when watered. I just want to make sure I am not overwatering even if they seem to need it, I’m scared of root rot. I feel the soil and I feel like it’s not super dry but not moist, I don’t know. I’m not a pro soil-feeler lol. Also, the plant to the right has some yellow leaves towards the bottom that come off rather easily so I’ve been carefully removing them, does anyone know the possible cause? I added organic tomato fertilizer pebbles a couple of days ago just in case it was lack of fertilizer.

The plant on the left are plum tomatoes and on the right they are cherry tomatoes.

 

[Chuck]

I understand that when gardening in pots more water is needed. I live in zone 9 (Florida), it’s definitely hot. My tomato plants seem to need watering every 2-3 days. I do like that they let me know by looking droopy and I know they’re thirsty because they perk back up after about 30 minutes when watered. I just want to make sure I am not overwatering even if they seem to need it, I’m scared of root rot. I feel the soil and I feel like it’s not super dry but not moist, I don’t know. I’m not a pro soil-feeler lol. Also, the plant to the right has some yellow leaves towards the bottom that come off rather easily so I’ve been carefully removing them, does anyone know the possible cause? I added organic tomato fertilizer pebbles a couple of days ago just in case it was lack of fertilizer.

The plant on the left are plum tomatoes and on the right they are cherry tomatoes.

Are the pots plastic or clay? What is the diameter of the pots? Are the plants droopy in the AM or PM hours? The yellowing of the leaves is a sign of the beginning of early blight. The way I control it is to remove all of the limbs for about 8 inches above the soil, leaving the suckers. Early blight is caused by a fungus in the soil and is transmitted mainly by water splashing up on the leaves. When you remove the limbs cut them off with scissors or a SHARP knife and after you cut EACH limb wipe the tool with an alcohol-soaked rag. I would leave the suckers so as to provide shade and increase yield. Applying mulch around the base of the plant reduces watering and it also helps to stop transmission of the early blight fungus. Remove and destroy all limbs that you removed. Early blight is extremely widespread and we all have to fight it every year but the above suggestions will allow you to have a complete harvest. I believe that both of your plants are indeterminate. The cherry plant will produce throughout the summer. The plum will not as it will get too hot for it to set fruit. Plum tomatoes, if they are not cherry plums, are of a Roma variety. Roma tomatoes are notorious for having Blossom End Rot. BER is caused by the plant's inability to uptake calcium. To remedy this apply a double handful of Epsom Salt around the base of the plant and water it in. It is the cure for BER in alkaline soils.

 

[oneeye]

Those tomatoes will cook in those containers when the Sun hits the pots. That's why their wilting! I try to block the sun from hitting my pots so the soil doesn't cook the roots and bake the water out. I water these every 7 or 8 days. I block the evening sun with a shrub but they still get about 8 hours sun. Their still babies.

 

[roadrunner]

I don't do container gardening, but I do live in the same zone of Florida as you and my tomatoes also wilt in the heat of the day, if in the direct sun.

I've found that my tomatoes do best with minimal direct sun in the morning and dappled sun in the afternoon. Tomato plants don't need a lot of watering, especially when fruiting, so you've possibly have over-watered them, but probably haven't caused root rot yet.

BTW, you could look into getting some shade cloth and giving them some shade.

As for recommendations for containers, the two posts above seem like good recommendations.

 

[taturrria]

I don't do container gardening, but I do live in the same zone of Florida as you and my tomatoes also wilt in the heat of the day, if in the direct sun.

I've found that my tomatoes do best with minimal direct sun in the morning and dappled sun in the afternoon. Tomato plants don't need a lot of watering, especially when fruiting, so you've possibly have over-watered them, but probably haven't caused root rot yet.

BTW, you could look into getting some shade cloth and giving them some shade.

As for recommendations for containers, the two posts above seem like good recommendations.

Thank you everyone for your responses, they are much appreciated!

Sheesh, it seems like I’m going to have to move my “delicate” plants into my front porch. I’ll make some space, I’m thinking everything else seems to do well, we shall see! Thanks again!

 

[Chuck]

Thank you everyone for your responses, they are much appreciated!

Sheesh, it seems like I’m going to have to move my “delicate” plants into my front porch. I’ll make some space, I’m thinking everything else seems to do well, we shall see! Thanks again!

Tomatoes do best in full morning sun and afternoon sun until it gets to a steady +/- 95F afternoon temperatures. When it gets that hot provide heat protection such as a shade cloth, cardboard or anything to keep the direct sun from the container. Adding a good layer of mulch to the soil surface also greatly reduces the loss of moisture and helps the soil stay cooler. In most cases, larger tomato varieties have already stopped producing and are in the ripening process when temperatures are steady at this high heat. Only cherrys will continue to produce and if the foliage is inadequate, protection from the sun is required to stop sunscald from the fruit.

 

[jasper]

The sun will stress tomatoes. If you have a lot of sand the water will run straight down and pass your roots and will be dry in a few hours. I find mulching and adding some peat to the soil will retain moisture. You dont want a lot of stress on your plants it makes the blooms fall off. Stick your finger in the ground to the first knuckle if you feel moisture your good. Bury 2/3rds of your tomato plants in the soil it will stay moist down there and put on more root mass.

 

[cntrlwagdnr]

One thing tomato plants do need is consistent watering. Whatever the amount an schedule, stick to it. They don't like change.

 

[jayb0g]

Those tomatoes will cook in those containers when the Sun hits the pots. That's why their wilting! I try to block the sun from hitting my pots so the soil doesn't cook the roots and bake the water out. I water these every 7 or 8 days. I block the evening sun with a shrub but they still get about 8 hours sun. Their still babies.

If the plants are sensitive to heat, do gardeners ever use thermometers to check soil temperature? My containers don't feel hot to me, but I am also not sensitive to extreme temperatures.

 

[jasper]

Your post are to small to retain enough water to support the plant. Move them to a 5 gallon bucket with peat in the bottom 3 ".