Depleted soil

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hello everyone this is my first thread and I would like some advice,I had the soil tested in my allotment
and the results were , PH6.5, Potash adequate , Nitrogen depleted, and phosphorus deficient.
can anyone advise me how to rectify this, maybe with an autumn dressing or a combination of fertilizers,
MANY THANKS
 

Oliver Buckle

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Blood fish and bone is a good source for Nitrogen and phosphorus, but think longer term as well. Growing leguminous crops which fix nitrogen will put nitrogen into the soil if you leave the root system in the soil and compost the top growth. Basically one solution will give you a temporary fix, but a number of them can become part of a routine improving your soil all round. I am sure others will discuss things like green manure, or HK, and we all have our favourite, but the best results come from mixing long term solutions, throwing artificial fertilizer at it works briefly, then it washes out and leaves the soil worse off than ever
 

Meadowlark

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Welcome @allertonred 🤠

I've faced that problem every year during several decades of successfully growing the veggies for my family. You can throw synthetics at it, but it is a proven "quick fix" loosing game as your soil grows worse and worse with less and less nutrients over time.

My solution for decades has been to rebuild the nutrients in the soil naturally through the use of green manures, cover crops including legumes for N2 fixation, and composted cow manure all obtained here from my property.

It works for me...many consecutive years of soil tests showing "No N-P-K required" in the same garden soil and even better... incredible nutritious food to enjoy that has never had "cides" or synthetics applied to it.
 

oneeye

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The above are best methods, but if you want to use synthetic fertilizer then get some slow release 10-10-10 and follow their recommendations. Since you have a pH of 6.5 the nutrients should be available to the plants quickly.
 

cpp gardener

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I would do both. The synthetic fertilizer works faster and the organics last longer in most cases. Slow release synthetics last 3 to 6 months, depending on soil temperature.
Using synthetic fertilizer DOES NOT leave your soil worse than before. It will return to what it WAS before. Organics do the same thing if you stop adding, only slower. “No NPK needed” will become “xN, xP, xK needed” if organics are discontinued. Neither one is a one-time practice.
 
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I would do both. The synthetic fertilizer works faster and the organics last longer in most cases. Slow release synthetics last 3 to 6 months, depending on soil temperature.
Using synthetic fertilizer DOES NOT leave your soil worse than before. It will return to what it WAS before. Organics do the same thing if you stop adding, only slower. “No NPK needed” will become “xN, xP, xK needed” if organics are discontinued. Neither one is a one-time practice.
I think I will take your advice and do both as I have access to farmyard manure which I will put on in autumn {fall} then maybe balanced growmore. 7,7,7. at planting time.
 

Oliver Buckle

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I am not sure if they are used here, I think 'sometimes' is probably the answer, but there are weedkillers used on grass for feed that are allowed because they go straight through the animals digestive system. The drawback, of course, is they are then in the manure, and it has to be stacked for years before it decomposes enough to be used on a garden.
If you are unsure I am told the bean test is good, basically grow beans in it, if they germinate and grow normally fine, if they fail to germinate or grow distorted pass on that one.
Salt build up is a consideration, not much in horse manure, more in cow manure, lots in pig manure, pigs also eat thistles and the seeds go straight through them.
 

smitty55

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I would do both. The synthetic fertilizer works faster and the organics last longer in most cases. Slow release synthetics last 3 to 6 months, depending on soil temperature.
Using synthetic fertilizer DOES NOT leave your soil worse than before. It will return to what it WAS before. Organics do the same thing if you stop adding, only slower. “No NPK needed” will become “xN, xP, xK needed” if organics are discontinued. Neither one is a one-time practice.
Really, you are so wrong. It has been proven countless times that synthetic fertilizers kill beneficial soil microbes and build up salts in the soil. Soil is a living organism dependent on the soil food web for healthy nutritious crops. Soils around the world have become dead from the overuse of chemical fertilizers and that is fact. smh
 

oneeye

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Really, you are so wrong. It has been proven countless times that synthetic fertilizers kill beneficial soil microbes and build up salts in the soil. Soil is a living organism dependent on the soil food web for healthy nutritious crops. Soils around the world have become dead from the overuse of chemical fertilizers and that is fact. smh
You are right friend the overuse of fertilizer is a problem. People use way to much and way too often and thats causing problems.

However In this situation, the soil is lacking and needing supplementation suggusted from a soil test. There is no over use here, as a matter as fact in order to grow healthy plants he will have to supplement with amendments to bring the soil into a healthy range just to complete a nutrient sequence.
 

cpp gardener

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What salts are built up in these depleted soils?
What fertilizers were used?
What testing was done?
What supplements were used to alleviate excesses? Any leaching with water?
Changing fertilizer practices can change chemical imbalances in soils, either organics or synthetic. Test for deficiencies and toxicities and remediate as necessary.
Yes, exclusive reliance on heavy applications can negatively impact soil microbiology, but these can be reduced by more precise applications of testing determined deficiencies. Selecting fertilizers that don’t contain unwanted elements is key to preventing buildup of toxic substances.
No one said organic matter can’t be added along with synthetic fertilizer to improve tilth and nutrient levels. It doesn’t have to be all or nothing or one thing exclusively.
 

gardenstart

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Have a look into using sea minerals, if you're interested. It helps to naturally revitalize depleted soils and provides trace minerals which are essential for plant and human health.
This thread has details:
And relevant studies:
 

Oliver Buckle

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Fish blood and bone will directly address his deficiencies, is probably cheaper than something like tomato feed, widely available, and will last longer between applications. As it happens I have both tomato feed and blood and bone, but if I had Tomm. orite and not the other I would start with that. Different things act differently, mixing them up a bit can mean the best of both worlds if you are careful, the worst of both if you are excessive.
 

DirtMechanic

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I think you need more mushrooms. Its like needing more cowbell. what could you do to make the soul of that soil grow more fungi?
 

DirtMechanic

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A thick layer of arborist chippings (what tree trimmers make when they grind up branches with a chipper) will help add nutrients and reduce weed growth.
Lignin and sugar. Its like the old days of crack cocaine in detroit. Not sure what the idiots are doing now but there are deep implications upon the relationship of the white decomposition molds transformative effects upon lignin from hardwoods. Pine cannot offer the same nutrition. I mean offer in the completed decomposition cycle since a biological additive which is the fungus both brings and dies giving extra nutritional value as it expires.
 

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