Can these plants be saved?

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Hello everyone. Last week I transplanted 2 tomato plants into 20 inch containers and put them outside. Well, last night we had a really bad thunderstorm, with lightning, and a short period of hale. The 2 plants took a beating. I have attached 2 pictures of what remains of each one in the pots. I also kept the branches that were knocked off and have put the bottoms of each one in water to try and get some roots to grow. I also attached 2 pictures of those as well. I have 2 questions. Will the plants in the pot recover? The leaves are torn, have holes. The branches that were knocked off and I saved, if they grow roots, do you think I will be able to plant them and get them to grow?
 

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It will be a waste of time. You might have the tops grow some roots and the planted part send up more bearing stems but by the time they do it will be too late in the season for them to set fruit unless you can keep them alive until you maybe get a fall setting of fruit. It isn't too late to replant the smaller varieties of tomatoes
 
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Chuck,

Thanks for the reply. The variety of tomato seeds I have say harvest is 83-90 days. So if I start new from seeds today, basically I would be looking at end of July or early August. It sounds like you are saying just start over. Can I reuse the soil in the container. At the bottom of the hole I put some calcium nitrate and azomite, and would like to be able to reuse that full container.
 
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If you can find starts at a nursery, (shudder) big box store, etc. get them and plant in your containers. It's really too late to start from seeds, and you may not be able to find the variety of tomato you want, but some tomatoes are better than no tomatoes.
 
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Oh dear. Same thing happened to my garden four years ago, decimated by hail. We have a short growing season so l bought starter replacements and still had a fine harvest. Luckily my favourite nursery sells a wide variety and many heirloom tomatoes so it worked out
 
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Marlingardener,

Thanks for the reply. I hesitate to buy from a big box store as well. Fortunately, we have a nursery in the area that has alot to choose from. All the plants look great. They grow them in pro-mix. I will check them out again in the next day or two.

Beth_B,

Thanks for the reply. So you think it is a waste to try starting again from seed. If harvest would be 90 days, that would put it at the end of july/early august. I hate to give up on seeds and buy starts
 
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I understand...mind you l have limited space and light for growing from seed, and with a growing season only 4-5 months long I'm used to buying starts. Good that you have a good nursery! I also dislike big box stores.
 
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Beth,

I live in the upstate of South Carolina. It will be warm here into September. That's why I am confused about not trying again from seeds. Even October, the days will still be warm. We might get some cooler nights starting in September.

The nursery that is close by has the best looking plants I have ever seen. They all look strong, healthy, and green, no spots.
 
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Hi Dollarbill...l will defer to others in warmer climates, as my gardening experience is almost all in northern growing zones. I guess you could start more seeds and by your math be harvesting well before any potential frost? Maybe get some slips as well so you can also enjoy some bounty earlier in the season.
 
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Beth,

I live in the upstate of South Carolina. It will be warm here into September. That's why I am confused about not trying again from seeds. Even October, the days will still be warm. We might get some cooler nights starting in September.

The nursery that is close by has the best looking plants I have ever seen. They all look strong, healthy, and green, no spots.
DAYTIME temperatures are not what determines the setting of fruit on tomatoes. NIGHTTIME LOW TEMPS ARE WHAT DETERMINE TOMATOES SETTING FRUIT. If you start from seeds, by the time the plant is blooming the nighttime temps will be to high for any but small fruited tomatoes. Medium to large fruited tomatoes will reliably set fruit only between 68F-74F. They will sometimes set fruit as low as 63F but anything over75F is iffy at best. Cherry types will set fruit into the mid-80'sF
 

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