7 Consecutive years of "No N-P-K Required"

[Meadowlark]

In preparation for the spring garden planting season which begins here next month with the potato planting, had the garden soil tested....and for the 7th consecutive year, the test lab recommendation was "No N-P-K required". In addition, the nutrient density probability score was 94% meaning the probability of that soil producing nutrient dense veggies is .94.

The N, P, and K readings were the highest I've ever recorded as well as the Ca, Mg, and Na readings.

These results were without any added synthetic fertilizers only green manures, composted cow manure, and chop and drop legumes. We have had no real measurable rain since Labor Day and I'm thinking that may be the cause of the high readings...normally we would have lots of rain in that period and it would wash away some of the nutrients that have been added.

Very much looking forward to what kind of potato crop this soil will produce.

Nutrient	2020​	2021​	2022​	2023​	2024​	2025​	2026​
pH	6.49​	6.65​	6.51​	6.37​	6.11​	6​	5.8​
Total Nitrogen (N)	30.2​	34.23​	34.28​	38.9​	32.41​	37.73​	112.54​
Nitrate (NO3-N)	8.1​	9.72​	9.83​	30.1​	10.19​	16.16​	76.04​
Ammonium	5.9​	17.51​	24.45​	8.77​	22.22​	21.57​	36.49​
Phosphorus (P)	48.2​	75.7​	63.39​	31.6​	68.16​	18.83​	67.27​
Potassium (K)	116.2​	62.53​	111.27​	115​	50.23​	121.6​	133.37​
Sulfur (S)	4.1​	3.47​	7.38​	9.92​	8.22​	6.46​	14.32​
Calcium (Ca)	300​	499.7​	464.64​	83​	488.3​	253.5​	559.66​
Magnesium (Mg)	25.4​	24.86​	43.46​	33.7​	57.09​	32.28​	45.79​
Sodium (Na)	6.6​	5.38​	23.17​	13.8​	8.74​	9.91​	27.54​
Iron (Fe)	11.4​	2.7​	14.45​	1.27​	46.84​	1.6​	3.92​
Manganese (Mn)	11​	10.94​	12.56​	4.7​	30.11​	13.98​	23.87​
Zinc (Zn)	0.4​	0.49​	0.52​	0.17​	0.74​	0.43​	0.76​
Copper (Cu)	0.1​	0.15​	0.08​	0.03​	0.1​	0.06​	0.11​
Boron (B)	0.1​	0.11​	0.14​	0.01​	0.06​	0.04​	0.03​

​

 

[Martin Mikulcik]

Very nice, what legumes did you use?

 

[Meadowlark]

Very nice, what legumes did you use?

Thanks.

Several...for summer I use Sunn Hemp and field peas. For winter, I use clovers, alfalfa, and vetch.

The Sunn Hemp has absolutely incredible nitrogen fixing abilities...even higher than alfalfa.

 

[GFTL]

I had my wicking beds tested last fall and all the numbers came back with Very High readings. pH was also a little high at 7.35. Other than the pH I was wondering if the other high numbers will be OK or should I adjust the soil levels too?

 

[Martin Mikulcik]

High fertility is a good thing.

Depending on what you're growing 7.35 is extremely high, but it's pretty typical of saginaw bay area. Not necessarily problematic, just keep it in mind, if something is off it very well might be pH.

Unless you're using tons of milorganite and have built heavy metals up in your soils, that is

 

[Meadowlark]

... I was wondering if the other high numbers will be OK or should I adjust the soil levels too?

Depends on how high your "high" reading was and to a lesser extent what you are growing. Your ph level can be problematic for some veggies.

Rule of thumb I use = above 800 ppm of K and/or above 75 ppm of P are levels requiring adjustment.

In my case, the readings for K and P are well within my tolerance range for veggie plants I grow. The total N, I don't consider to be a problem either because it is organically sourced.

 

[GFTL]

All the test report said was I probably won't need to add any nutrients for several years. No mention of lowering the numbers except for pH.

 

[Meadowlark]

All the test report said was I probably won't need to add any nutrients for several years. No mention of lowering the numbers except for pH.

That might be true of "P" and "K" but "N" can be depleted by plants fairly quickly in my experience.

 

[Martin Mikulcik]

That might be true of "P" and "K" but "N" can be depleted by plants fairly quickly in my experience.

Are you mulching mid season then?
Edit
I see where it says several years

 

[Meadowlark]

Are you mulching mid season then?

No. I generally don't use mulch except around tomatoes...or anything else for that matter. My soil is relatively weed free except for windblown seeds.

Also, once seed is planted or transplanted or whatever, I do not generally add any amendments. My soil has high organic matter content and that stuff breaking down and releasing nutrients is more than sufficient for the entire growing cycle.

The only exception to that would be onions which I provide fish emulsion until they start bulbing which is usually in Feb. here.

 

[Martin Mikulcik]

The only exception to that would be onions which I provide fish emulsion until they start bulbing which is usually in Feb. here.

That's the secret to those whoppers

Onions really don't like our summers or winters for that matter, so most people do sets, and I only dream of growing onions like you

 

[Meadowlark]

That's the secret to those whoppers

Onions really don't like our summers or winters for that matter, so most people do sets, and I only dream of growing onions like you

The fish emulsion helps, but I think the biggest factor in consistently growing big bulbed sweet onions is starting them from seed in Oct.

I've tried sets, transplants, and starting from seed in Feb./March...none can compare to results starting from seed in Oct. The primary onion I grow is the Texas super sweet 1015 onion...named for the planting date 1015.

They are cold hardy down to about 10 deg. F....actually haven't had any colder temps than that while having onions in the ground. I know Missouri usually gets lower temps than that in winters there.

The long growing time in the soil from Oct. to May enables the growth of very large bulbs. Starting from seed in fall also minimizes bolting which will preclude large bulbs.

So, yes fish emulsion helps, and a long growing season starting from seed helps, and most of all a nutrient rich soil all combine to consistently produce large, sweet onions that store well from May through to January.

 

[GFTL]

That might be true of "P" and "K" but "N" can be depleted by plants fairly quickly in my experience.

I cover everything with chopped leaves. I have been putting compost on as well but my skip that next year. These beds are totally self contained wicking beds so I'm thinking not much leaches out.