10 April 2017 Rototilling Main Garden.

[Durgan]

http://durgan.org/2017/April%202017/10%20April%202017%20Rototilling%20Main%20Garden/HTML/ 10 April 2017 Rototilling Main Garden.
The main vegetable garden 26 by 35 feet was rototilled using an old 4.5 Clinton tiller and raked smooth. The tilling
was deep ~9 inches to work in the mulch left over from last year, then raked smooth. The grass on he edges grows up through the rabbit fence surrounding the garden. It is too hard to eradicate. The moisture content was perfect.

 

[headfullofbees]

That's fine looking soil, Durgan, you should photograph that and explain about the benefits of woodchip mulching for our gardening novices, not only in terms of that year's growth, but about the build-up of hummus in the soil.
I think it could teach a lot and be very helpful.

 

[Durgan]

There is over 100 yards of city compost mixed with the heavy clay plus the wood chips. The soil is probably as good as it will ever be. I add some material yearly. There are almost no food gardeners in Canada.

 

[headfullofbees]

There is over 100 yards of city compost mixed with the heavy clay plus the wood chips. The soil is probably as good as it will ever be. I add some material yearly. There are almost no food gardeners in Canada.

Then I'm right.
If you've turned heavy clay into that soil, there are people with whom you really should share your knowledge.

Btw, my dear uncle Andre Sarrazin, no longer with us, used to love growing his tomatoes in Montreal.

 

[Durgan]

When I first bought this place in 2002 the soil was wet clay. I was devastated and ignorant as to how to improve. I dug trenches about 300 feet and 1 foot wide and two feet deep. I placed gravel in the bottom then a plastic weeping tile 5 inches diameter then gravel then the sod back. It drains to the street and cannot be seen from looking at the yard..The yard is dry.

Then how to improve the soil for growing? I tried sand it was useless. Then I put a bit of compost and mixed. It worked fine. I added about ten yards every year and worked it into the soil.After about 5 years the soil was fine. The city supplied about two yards per day free of charge during the month of May. I got a load in my van every day for about 30 days.Then I started to use wood chip mulch for moisture retention during dry summers which seems to be relatively normal around here. At first I was concerned about the chips but found they composted in about a year and possibly added some pith to the soil. They certainly helped with moisture retention during the growing season.

My views is compost if you have enough is the best conditioner one can get. I would like well rotted manure but know not where to get, plus neighbors would probably complain.

You have to use what your area supplies and at an economical cost. But soil needs to be improved on a yearly basis with compost, manure, or a cover crop if your climate permits.

My compost is free, but I buy the chips at $10.00 a yard and usually get a 10 yard load delivered in the Spring.I pick up half a yard in the van if required periodically. It almost completely disappears in a year. It is from a pile nearby which has composed for about a year

I am dealing with an area counting the trees of less than 1500 square feet. I do not grow in containers.

 

[roadrunner]

I don't have too much experience with clay soils, but enough to know I would hate to garden with clay. I have heard that Fava beans are a great cover crop for clay soils, because the tap root breaks thru really well and helps keep the soil soft. But there are other cover crops, see here: https://www.gardeningknowhow.com/edible/vegetables/cover-crops/cover-crops-for-clay-soil.htm

 

[Durgan]

I have usually had clay. Nutrient wise it is ideal, but working it can be difficult. Good surface water drainage is essential.
I had sand once and was terrible. Almost impossible to maintain moisture.
Prudent use of mulch can alleviate many issues with soil. It is a case of adapting to your local environment.

 

[headfullofbees]

I also cultivate very heavy clay soil (there are three brickworks in the area) so I know how long and how much work it takes to get the soil right.
Clay is also much slower to warm in the spring, (which won't help a short growing season in Canada) and is either very heavy when wet, or rock hard when dry.
I have found that composting cattle manure with woodchips and dead leaves helps a lot, and that mulching with woodchips, straw or leaves, also helps, as worms like the cellulose, and get to work breaking it down.