Straw v. Bark Mulch v. something else?

[Beth_B]

I moved the bulk of my veggie garden a block away this spring, to a friend's yard. (My property is all quite shaded, plus I've been hit seriously with blight the last couple of years.) So we're combining forces and energy and had a fairly large veggie plot double-rototilled and planted a week ago.

So...I want to mulch it. Mainly for weed control and to keep things like squash resting on the dirt. The two most obvious choices are straw and bark mulch; I can easily get either and they cost about the same. Pros/cons for either? Mostly I've used straw in the past and it breaks down beautifully over the winter to enrich the soil but it's also not that great for weed control. I'm apparently in a really fertile area and we have super-weeds. (Creeping Charlie, I'm looking at YOU.)

Thoughts? Other options?

 

[Chuck]

I moved the bulk of my veggie garden a block away this spring, to a friend's yard. (My property is all quite shaded, plus I've been hit seriously with blight the last couple of years.) So we're combining forces and energy and had a fairly large veggie plot double-rototilled and planted a week ago.

So...I want to mulch it. Mainly for weed control and to keep things like squash resting on the dirt. The two most obvious choices are straw and bark mulch; I can easily get either and they cost about the same. Pros/cons for either? Mostly I've used straw in the past and it breaks down beautifully over the winter to enrich the soil but it's also not that great for weed control. I'm apparently in a really fertile area and we have super-weeds. (Creeping Charlie, I'm looking at YOU.)

Thoughts? Other options?

Bark mulches, especially pine bark, lack in nutrients as it decomposes as compared to other mulches. The only pro's to bark mulches is that they last quite awhile. That's why they are mainly used cosmetically. In heavy rains they will literally float away. Not so with the finer processed mulches in which the particles tend to adhere to each other. As for weed control no mulch will stop weeds if they want to sprout. Bark mulches have their place such as in perennial flower gardens and under shrubs and trees but IMO a vegetable garden is not the place

 

[Durgan]

Mulch aged about a year from ground up deciduous trees is my preference. But even a mixture of evergreen in the mix is acceptable. The chips are porous allowing air and water free access, and stay in place during heavy rains. Chips are available almost everywhere, since pruning of trees is always an ongoing business, and the purveyors have to get rid of their chips.

I have just finished covering most of my garden and need one more yard to complete the effort. I use the mulch for moisture retention. It is rototilled in every Fall after the growth is finished, and come Spring there is little left. I add a sprinkle of urea, nitrogen, to assist in breakdown, but it is probably not necessary.
http://durgan.org/2016/April 2016/25 April 2016 Mulch/HTML 25 April 2016 Mulch

http://www.durgan.org/URL/?DEALJ 3 June 2015 Wood Chip Mulch

 

[Beth_B]

Thanks guys! @Chuck, the only reason I was even thinking about bark mulch was because I have three bags of it left over from mulching the perennials. It's cedar mulch though, which is why I wondered about its value for the soil. @Durgan, four years ago I had tree work done (elm and maple) and a big pile of mulch left behind. Unfortunately I used the last of it last year. I agree, that was some nice mulch!

Good thing I enjoy weeding.

 

[Autumn_Hearthwitch]

I personally don't use anything, just straight up dirt for me but that's my preference. My grandfather was the same way, mostly just dirt for his garden but I have seen him use hay a few times as well. Like I said I guess it's mostly your own preference, go ahead and add the mulch if you want to. It probably won't deter all of the weeds but maybe some at least, and it would certainly make for a pretty garden. I don't mind the weeding myself but then again I don't have a huge garden, nor do I live in a really fertile area or have super weeds.

 

[Durgan]

Mulch does reduce weed growth depending upon the thickness of the material. My main reason for utilizing is to retain moisture by reducing evaporation due to the Sun. Mulch also keeps the soil soft and open to air, otherwise during dry spells it must be loosened to aerate the root. During some dry periods the soil can get as hard a cement, completely stopping rain from getting to the roots thus inhibiting growth. Thus to use for serious production is not a preference, but a prudent necessity.

 

[Beth_B]

We get enough rain usually that water retention isn't a concern. Mostly exuberant weed growth! And since we're growing several kinds of squash and cucumbers along with heirloom tomatoes which tend to get a bit droopy, it's good not to have the fruit resting right on the ground.

I'll use up the rest of the wood mulch, just because I have it. That won't go far...I'll use straw for the rest. I get it for $4.75 a bale. Barley straw is a bit higher, but regular straw has worked out great in the past.

 

[Durgan]

I used straw in bales when first playing with mulch. My experience was not positive. I found it hard to position. Often it would bunch up and become almost imperious to water flow. Come spring I had hunks of straw that was eventually got rid of by putting through the chipper encompassing some extra work. The only positive aspect was ease of transporting to the required location. Then the proceeding issues arose.

I might add grass has many of the similar problems, and even some times it rots if lumpy which is highly likely.

I see no downside with the wood chips that are available.

I see you list your location as 6a. I assumed Michigan was mostly in the 5 range. I have to suffer with 5 a or b.